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69 Limo - how to check for air leaks in rear air lift shocks

Started by 1969cadillac, August 07, 2019, 09:26:42 AM

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1969cadillac

Hello - I have just replaced the orig factory airlift system with an aftermarket electric tyre pump and dump solenoid

I have new factory air lift shocks.

Works well except it don't hold air for very long - at 50 psi - goes down after an hour approx.

Q. what is the best method to see where it is leaking air ??  I have checked and tighten all the unions - but don't want to overtighten them !

thanks , Murray

35-709

Put a few drops of liquid dish-washing detergent in a spray bottle and fill with water.  Spray all of the connections and any other place that might leak and look for bubbles.
1935 Cadillac Sedan resto-mod "Big Red"
1973 Cadillac Caribou - Sold - but still in the family
1950 Jaguar Mark V Saloon resto-mod - Sold
1942 Cadillac 6269 - Sold
1968 Pontiac Bonneville Convertible - Sold
1950 Packard 2dr. Club Sedan
1935 Glenn Pray - Auburn Boattail Speedster, Gen. 2

Big Fins

The way those little nylon tubes snaked their way through the frame, they could be rubbed raw anywhere.
Current:
1976 Eldorado Convertible in Crystal Blue FireMist with white interior and top. (Misty Blue

Past and much missed:
1977 Brougham de Elegance
1976 Eldorado Convertible
1972 Fleetwood Brougham
1971 Sedan de Ville
1970 de Ville Convertible
1969 Fleetwood Brougham
1969 Sedan de Ville
1959 Sedan deVille

TJ Hopland

You said 'new factory'?   If these are clearly old stock then you could easily have a leak internal to the shock itself.   Even if they are listed as current production I have my suspicions that they don't make em anymore and we are getting old stock.  I don't think a new car has used them since the 90's so its likely a pretty limited market. 
73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI, over 30 years of ownership and counting
Somewhat recently deceased daily drivers, 80 Eldo Diesel & 90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

fishnjim

R U saying it doesn't stay up after running an hour* or once it's off, it slowly bleeds off pressure over an hour? 
I recall they used to simply put a shrader valve on the shock systems to pump up/bleed off the air to raise/lower.   Does yours lower through the dump valve?   That dump selenoid has to be fail closed/spring loaded, if not, soon as the power is off, nothing holding the valve closed, back flows through compressor.   Also the circuit that operates it has to be correct.   May not work off the stock switch.

I'd check each side separately with a gauge, valve, and air hose.   That'll tell U if it's the shocks, which one, or the compressor side. 
The "snoop" (detergent spray) method can sort out any joint leaks.   
Isolate the compressor and test it for pressure hold.   Could be a check valve issue or back flow or how it was designed to operate.    Maybe the wrong one for what you want to do.
* - These after market DC compressors are usually fairly cheaply made and don't last particularly long, 3-4 years.   You might need to add a small air tank and control the pump off a pressure switch continuously rather than the shocks.   Then an air raise/lower switch will work, that's how my air seat was operated.   But if you don't use vehicle much it'll drain the battery or accept the fact that the level will go down when off.   
Personally, I'd ditch the compressor, and just use with the shrader option.   I had those, and they worked well, no issues.   You run it out under the license plate, gas door, or bumper.

Glen


The 69 cars have the vacuum compressors.  No electrical parts.     
Glen Houlton CLC #727 
CLCMRC benefactor #104