1954 turn signal problem

[RobertM]

Im on the downhill stretch of getting my 54 sixty special done. Starting to get things back together. Did a functionality test of the lights today. I have headlights, fog lights, taillights, brake lights, license lights all working.

No turn signals..nothing. Not even a click either way. I checked the fuse. That looks good but I'll replace it just because. Could it just be the flasher? It has a Tung-Sol p273d currently and autozone couldnt even recommend a replacement so I'll have to go searching on ebay or the like and that will take some time to get to me I think.
Would there be any reason I'd have to go into the steering column? My concern is something wasnt put back together correctly.  It was completely apart when they painted all the interior parts. I do know the signals worked prior to taking everything apart.

Electrical issues are really my downfall. I dont know how to test wiring for current etc. This problem has me a little frustrated.

[Caddieman53]

The turn signal switch and wiring are under the steering wheel. You will need to pull the wheel to get at it. You may need a puller to get the wheel off. The center hub and horn ring must come off first. The plastic center hub can be a challenge to get off. You need to push it down and turn it at the same time. There's a fairly strong spring under it. You are trying to line up tabs on the plastic hub with matching slots underneath. Once off, you can remove the horn ring and wheel to expose the turn signal switch and wiring. Good luck with it.

[RobertM]

Update: it turns out that even though I have taillights I also have no brake lights. That puts a different spin on this.

[novetti]

Any grounds missing in the tailights or front blinkers?

It is highly recommended to install fresh and dedicated grounds for the tailights, the originals relied on the screw contact between the housing to establish contact.

If yours is a freshly repainted vehicle, more reason to make new grounds. A missing/poor ground at these light circuits play a havoc in the whole thing.

[dplotkin]

Bob-
On many cars the brake light feed is switched through the turn signal switch. Consult your 1954 shop manual wiring diagram to see how it is wired. If it always worked, suddenly does not, and nothing has changed I would suspect the turn signal switch.

Dan

[RobertM]

Bob-
On many cars the brake light feed is switched through the turn signal switch. Consult your 1954 shop manual wiring diagram to see how it is wired. If it always worked, suddenly does not, and nothing has changed I would suspect the turn signal switch.

Dan

Dan, it definitely does.  That's why the no brake lights has me considering it's more of an electrical or switch issue than the flasher.

Any grounds missing in the tailights or front blinkers?

It is highly recommended to install fresh and dedicated grounds for the tailights, the originals relied on the screw contact between the housing to establish contact.

If yours is a freshly repainted vehicle, more reason to make new grounds. A missing/poor ground at these light circuits play a havoc in the whole thing.

I did replace a light socket a couple months back, and this is the first function test, so I will check today and hope that it is just a bad ground.  I'm awful with a voltmeter, just never quite got used to them.

[RobertM]

I didn't realize that I also have no brake lights.  I have since found that the brake lights and turn signals are both routed through the turn signal switch.  And I've also been told that since the taillight/turn signal bulbs are double filament, the fact that I have lights at all 4 corners means my grounds are good. I was advised to check the brake switch before moving on to checking the turn signal switch. 

So after some youtube self-education on a multimeter, I was able to ascertain that:

1) the fuse is good
2) I'm getting 12v to the turn signal fuse
3) the brake switch is good.  I was able to test that from under the vehicle. By digging a bit with the lead, I got a couple volts on the pink or red wire and 0 on the yellow wire with the brake up.  With the brake down I got a couple volts on the yellow wire.  Switch is good.

So, I guess that leaves taking off the steering wheel and checking the turn signal switch.  Unless anyone has another idea of something to check first.  It may be evident that electrical is not my strength.

[RobertM]

Starting to understand this a lot better. Definitely the turn signal switch.

I was able to verify I have 12v to the connector under the steering column, both from the yellow hot wire and from the natural one (when the brake is down).

I was able to verify that all 4 lines violet, dark blue, light blue, pink going to the corners are good.  Clipped each to the radio fuse and got functioning lights at each corner. That was satisfying to see.

Took the steering wheel off and removed the turn signal switch. Verified I have continuity from the connector to all 6 leads at the switch. No busted wires there.

That leaves the turn signal switch.  I took it out, sprayed some contact cleaner and promptly lost 2 of the 9 tiny springs that were attached. WTF. I thought they were in better than that. Been searching for the past hour.

Thankfully I found a used switch ( more expensive than I expected) and it's on the way. I'll keep searching for those springs in the meantime.

At least this has been a good exercise in learning how to use a multimeter

[fishnjim]

If it has turn signal indicators on the dash they are involved in that circuit.   I'm not familiar with the '54 dash, per se, but should be shown in wiring diagram.

I have one turn signal('58) that works some times and not others and have spent a lot of time troubleshooting and it isn't resolved, so don't feel bad.   Since everything outboard is new and checked, I'm fairly certain mines now in the dash circuit board, but not ready to pull it out again.   I'm too big, old, and stiff to work under there so it has to come out and isn't easy.
Good luck.   
ps: If you get stuck and all else fails call an auto electrician.   You'll save a bunch of time.

[J. Gomez]

If it has turn signal indicators on the dash they are involved in that circuit.   I'm not familiar with the '54 dash, per se, but should be shown in wiring diagram.

I have one turn signal('58) that works some times and not others and have spent a lot of time troubleshooting and it isn't resolved, so don't feel bad.   Since everything outboard is new and checked, I'm fairly certain mines now in the dash circuit board, but not ready to pull it out again.   I'm too big, old, and stiff to work under there so it has to come out and isn't easy.
Good luck.   
ps: If you get stuck and all else fails call an auto electrician.   You'll save a bunch of time.

One of the biggest issues with how Cadillac made the design of the three prong flasher “X”, “L” (lamp) and “P” (pilot aka dash turn signal lights) is with how the layout the “P” circuit.   

Since the turn signal switch (TSS) is a simple switch the dash lamps are NOT directly grounded as other car manufactures had done the ground path for these are coming from the opposite side front bulbs, the one that is not active.

Having a front bulb or a dash bulb burn out or a wrong one installed causes all kind of problems depending on which one(s) are bad, rapid flashing, both dash lights flashing when the TSS is place on/at either side etc.

The dual prong flasher solve most of the issues by having all bulbs connected to ground except for rapid flashing when one of the bulbs is out. 

Unfortunately most of car electricians are not up to speed with older models especially in our era time frame.   

[RobertM]

Would a dash bulb out shut down everything? All 4 corners?

[Jim Govoni CLC 20546]

Just a thought..........you do have the correct number 12v bulbs all the way around?

[J. Gomez]

Would a dash bulb out shut down everything? All 4 corners?

Robert,

The answer is no, if one (or if both) of the dash bulbs is/are burn out/open the symptoms would be;

When you turn the signal switch to either side you will see the rapid flashing and the dash light (working one) would also be flashing fast but when you flip it to the other direction the dash light for that side with the burn bulb would be off but the other side would be flashing.

HTH

[fishnjim]

Flasher NAPA NF-550.   
You have to use the thermal type for this era.   Same '53-'62.

[RobertM]

I received my new/used switch today and confirmed what I had thought when I pulled this switch out. It was reassembled after paint missing pieces. The picture below shows mine on the left and the replacement on the right. 2 brass contacts and 4 ball bearings were definitely missing. Will reassemble and test tomorrow.