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Carnuba Wax or Ceramic for New Paint Protection ?

Started by Scott Halver, October 09, 2019, 02:13:28 PM

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Scott Halver

Hello,
I have a 1960 Cadillac that was re-painted about 6 months ago-   base and clear coat.  The old paint was completely removed down to the bare metal and the chrome removed.  I am wondering about what additional protection make sense going forward.   I hear about Ceramic 9H  and/or  Mother's California Gold Brazilian Carnuba wax  ??

I don't know much about paint and so that is why I am asking.   Any help is greatly appreciated.   SHalver CLC #24920
1960 Eldorado Seville, Grandfather Bought New
1970 Corvette Convertible 350/350

Cadillac Jack 82

Scott:

I can't help you with your question however I just want to say that you have a very nice 60 Seville based on your avatar picture.
Tim

CLC Member #30850

1959 Cadillac CDV "Shelley"
1964 Cadillac SDV "Rosalie"
1966 Oldsmobile Toronado "Sienna"

Past Cars

1937 LaSalle Cpe
1940 Chevrolet Cpe
1941 Ford 11Y
1954 Buick 48D
1955 Cadillac CDV
1955 Packard Clipper
1957 Cadillac Series 62
1962 VW Bug
1962 Dodge 880
1966 Mercury Montclair
1967 Buick Wildcat Convertible
1968 Chevy Chevelle SS
1968 Plymouth Barracuda
1977 Lincoln MKV

MaR

A properly applied ceramic coating will be vastly superior to any wax. I have ceramic coated several of my cars and they still bead water and shed road grime like they day it was applied years later.

Mike Josephic CLC #3877

Question for Mar:

Did you apply the ceramic coating yourself or have it
professionally done.  If you applied it, which brand
did you use.

I've never tried these but I curious since they reportedly
can last 5 years or longer.

Mike
1955 Cadillac Eldorado
1973 Cadillac Eldorado
1995 Cadillac Seville
2004 Escalade
1997 GMC Suburban 4X4, 454 engine, 3/4 ton
custom built by Santa Fe in Evansville, IN
2011 Buick Lucerne CX
-------------------------------------
CLCMRC Museum Benefactor #38
Past: VP International Affiliates, Museum Board Director, President / Director Pittsburgh Region

MaR

Quote from: Mike Josephic  CLC #3877 on October 09, 2019, 06:16:22 PM
Question for Mar:

Did you apply the ceramic coating yourself or have it
professionally done.  If you applied it, which brand
did you use.

I've never tried these but I curious since they reportedly
can last 5 years or longer.

Mike
I applied it myself on a new car. I used a product from Opti-coat that is not made anymore but it’s similar to their Optimum Paint Guard product.

76eldo

Assuming your car is a pampered and garaged collector car I would say use the Mother's Carnuba wax.  Purchase applicators and the softest microfiber cloths you can find.  I usually do a panel at a time in the garage or in the shade and with the car as clean as possible, apply as thin of a coating as possible and rub the wax in all the way in circular motions and making sure to overlap.  Bending your head down to look across the panel helps.

The reason I am suggesting this is that the ceramic coating is (in my opinion) for cars that get a lot of use and are exposed to a lot of UV.  If you experience any paint issues and go back to your painter and tell him you applied a ceramic coating he will blame you and will have an out.  If all you put on the car is Mothers Carnuba wax that's pretty safe.  I use it on my two original paint 1970 Caddy's and I get great results.

Brian
Brian Rachlin
Huntingdon Valley, Pa
I prefer email's not PM's rachlin@comcast.net

1960 62 Series Conv with Factory Tri Power
1970 DeVille Conv
1970 Eldo
1970 Caribu (?) "The Cadmino"
1973 Eldorado Conv Pace Car
1976 Eldorado Conv
1980 Eldorado H & E Conv
1993 Allante with Hardtop (X2)
2008 DTS
2012 CTS Coupe
2017 XT
1956 Thunderbird
1966 Olds Toronado

Rockfish39

#6
Scott,
          The nano-waxes, high tech polymers, ceramic waxes and so on are all very good products that are marketed towards daily drivers or cars that you only have to treat once a year. You can use them if you want to, won't hurt your paint. But I doubt that your '60 Cad is a daily driver.

In my opinion, and I am pretty sure Ill get some rebuttal for saying this, Liquid Glass is the stuff to use on your Cad!

I have used Liquid Glass exclusively on my show cars for over 25 years and I still say that it's performance is unparalleled.

8)

   

fishnjim

To me, in detailing, it's what appearance you want, and how long you want it to last? - what to use.   A question of time and labor, money, and appearance.
You're going to a show and don't care if it hazes after a week but want that mile deep finish or never going to see wax again til next year or so spectrum.   
If your a just once or twice a year kind of person, then the ceramics will outperform carnabas, hard or soft.   Hard lasts better than soft, but soft shines better/deeper wet appearance, hard is more effort to apply/shine.   
I caution against the caramics that you spray on a wet car and then hose off with water to spread them.   Too much chance for error, depends how good your rinse water is, and I'm told it streaks if not applied correctly.
I'm evaluating a new "ceramic" product just released two weeks ago, from Black Ice.   
It's called "liquid hybrid wax".   The new one I'm using is like a conventional liquid wax product, you apply, let it haze, then rub off.   I've tested, satisfied, and going to do the new Cad this weekend.    You can use a buffer/machine with this also.   It's about $34+ for a qt from Autogeek. 
The spray ceramic "SiO2" is the easiest, use like a quick detailer, spray on, rub and wipe off.   (When you're sealing make sure your paint is scrupulously clean first, or your just sealing in dirt.)   I'm going to use it as a quick detailer to extend the hybrid.
The SiO2 is more expensive ~$45+.   Friend says it's great.   It's a few bucks cheaper online but not much. 
The carnubas leaves a residue on the plastic trims parts and a whitish appearance.   I did not want that on the new Cad so the "hybrid" is good for that, made my 9 year old plastic look like new.
Since yours is a pre-plastic car with modern paint, you can do whatever you want, or use up what you got on hand first.   I'd just make sure the paint is at least 6 months since painted, been in the sun a bit, before any waxing or sealing.   These new water paints concern me of trapping moisture if not oven cured.   Solvents take a while too, and these 2 parts are catalyzed, so have to kill off the catalyst.  If you seal it too good, that's blister candy.
I must say, I was really impressed with how this new material made the chrome look on the big P/U.  So you got lots of chrome to wax also.   I'm thinking of redoing the show chrome I got stored.   Really easy to apply and wipe off - did not need the machine.  (I used it for the cleaner.)  I'd give it OK on the shine, totally reflective, not better, but it's a Lt silver vehicle.   I want to see it on the darker color first.   Black is the ultimate shine test, so depends a bit on what color you have.  I'm too old to own black vehicle now that they got all this great products...   Where were they when I was young and working hard on my finish.
ps; For your similar arthritic old timer detailers who still use a chamois because you know how, I bought a hand wringer, and it a life saver.   I use it for everything now.
I was skeptical of the price, but wouldn't be without now.

INTMD8

Has it been cut and buffed?

Only 6 months ago painted I would probably wait until spring to do a final paint correction before considering ceramic.


marty55cdv

   Hi Scott, saw your amazing car at the GN and we talked a bit.  I haven't tried a ceramic yet and I don't know if I will since I enjoy waxing and detailing. Everyone has their favorite detail products, If you happen to watch Bitchin Rides on TV they use Adams Polishes, I use their Tire Shine , for wax I use Surf City Garage Barrier Reef, before waxing I user Meguiars # 7 polish.  I also use Surf City Garage detail spray. Meguiars also has a product #305 durable glaze for fresh painted cars which I have used as well. I use Mothers wax on the wifes car and my pickup.
Marty Smith
  CLC #22760
41 60 Special http://bit.ly/1Wm0GvT
55 CDV http://bit.ly/1G933IY
56 Fleetwood
1958 Extended Deck http://bit.ly/1NPYhGC
1959 Fleetwood  http://bit.ly/1OFsrOE
1960 Series 62 Coupe
1960 Sedan DeVille  4 window Flattop
63 Fleetwood http://bit.ly/1iSz17J
1964 Eldorado http://bit.ly/1Wm17GA  (Living in California now)
1988 EBC http://bit.ly/1iSACKz

Dan LeBlanc

One thing I've learned detailing cars over the years, many of them black, is to never apply your wax in a circular motion.  All those swirl marks you spent hours polishing out?  They will return by applying wax in a circular motion.  I've always used a back and forth overlapping motion and have always had excellent results.  It's a trick I picked up a long time ago from a professional detailer.
Dan LeBlanc
1977 Lincoln Continental Town Car

76eldo

Brian Rachlin
Huntingdon Valley, Pa
I prefer email's not PM's rachlin@comcast.net

1960 62 Series Conv with Factory Tri Power
1970 DeVille Conv
1970 Eldo
1970 Caribu (?) "The Cadmino"
1973 Eldorado Conv Pace Car
1976 Eldorado Conv
1980 Eldorado H & E Conv
1993 Allante with Hardtop (X2)
2008 DTS
2012 CTS Coupe
2017 XT
1956 Thunderbird
1966 Olds Toronado

Scott Halver

Hello,  I appreciate all the positive comments, especially from Tim and Marty.   It's been amazing to go from "the car that needs a paint job" to having a nice car.   I have a lot to think about.  Dan's comments about not traveling in a circular motion is a new one on me-   think I wash and dry the car using a circular motion.   

It sounds like the ceramic is a good choice but maybe I should wait a little while longer, find a car that actually has the ceramic coating.   My car is in the garage, covered and does not see the sun much, so I would guess the paint is not curing as fast as like with a daily driver. 

Thank You for your input, SHalver CLC #24920
1960 Eldorado Seville, Grandfather Bought New
1970 Corvette Convertible 350/350