Frequency of adding oil

[201Brinley]

I know that the Northstar V8 tends to burn oil. I’m wondering how often you add oil. I had hoped to go at least 1,000 miles, but I just added for the first time and didn’t get that far.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Mine, a 2011 model, is not burning oil. I don't have to add oil between yearly maintenance. However, I'm not driving very much: I have now about 27'000 miles after 8 years of ownership; I bought the car new.

[fishnjim]

What's the mileage?
My '97 would be about a qt low by the time it was oil change time,~4K miles.   It had about 30K when I got it, and over a 100k at the end.   
These motors are designed with a large ring gap for reduced friction, and are expected to use a bit more oil, as it burns it off.  Should be in your owners manual.
ps:I found it "impossible" to work on.   Everything is in a bad place and you have to remove a lot to get to things.   EG: starter is under the manifold.   I broke the aluminum bracket getting the alternator out.   When alt. went the second time, I let the Cad dealer change it, and service told me not to bring it back for alternator.   

[201Brinley]

The mileage is approximately 86,500. As I inherited it only a few months ago, I haven’t put 1,000 miles on it yet. But I listened to the DIC message and added a half-quart.

[harry s]

I have an '04 with just over 100K that occasionally will need a qt (10W30) between changes (3K). The previous one ("00) had 175K and was using a qt every 800 miles. Other than that I didn't and haven't had any major problems.      Harry

[201Brinley]

Thank you for the replies. I will watch to see if the <1,000 miles was a fluke or normal. If it’s normal, I’ll just stock up on oil. What else am I going to do?

[signart]

I don't know about these engines, but there are more than a few that will run a long way 1 qt. low.   I sure wouldn't add 1/2 qt.

[TJ Hopland]

Wasn't there a change in the Northstar at some point to make it so that in theory you didn't have to add oil between changes?   Like they added capacity or set the level alert lower?

[201Brinley]

Well, the dipstick was definitely at the “add oil” level, so I figured I’d start at the half-quart level.

[Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373]

Well, the dipstick was definitely at the “add oil” level, so I figured I’d start at the half-quart level.

Where did the level start? Did you change the oil or have it done? Reason I am asking is the dipstick could be wrong but more likely the shop "filled" it 1 quart low. Next oil change ask them and check it before your next drive after you get home and then use that as a starting point to judge things.
Jeff

[bcroe]

Each engine here seems to have its own rate of oil burning.  Could be
the build, much variation even between engines of the same type,
probably much related to how well it has been taken care of. 

The 2 tightest engine I have owned originally used practically no oil
between changes.  But now with some 700,000 miles between them,
it is necessary to check them about every 1000 miles and probably
top them off.  If I found a lot of oil used, I would shorten the interval. 
Bruce Roe

[201Brinley]

Jeff, I did not change the oil. It was changed by my father’s mechanic (I inherited the car a few months ago) before I drove it from NJ to MD. Since he serviced the car for him for 10 years, I find it impossible to believe that he wouldn’t add the 7 1/2 quarts of oil. I had figured I’d check the oil every 1,000 miles, but the DIC message appeared. I will take your advice and check the car after the next oil change.

[Dan LeBlanc]

Here's something you need to know about Northstar engines.  They need to go to wide-open throttle every now and again.

There are many advantages to occasional full throttle accelerations with a Northstar engine.

It keeps the carbon cleaned out of the combustion chamber. This is maybe a little more important with the Northstar than some other engines due to the tight squish volumes between the piston and the cylinder head. It's designed this way to promote good in-cylinder mixture motion (good combustion) but it has the down side of providing a ready place for carbon build-up to touch the piston - causing noise. Ever heard of the Northstar "cold carbon rap" problem?? Simply put you'll hear a rythmic, piston slap-like noise when the engine is cold. Very prominent and very annoying. Cause: excessive carbon build up causing the the piston to contact the carbon on the head - causing it to rock in the bore and "slap" Much more evident when the engine is cold and the pistons haven't expanded to full diameter yet. Simplest and easiest "fix" for this: A few good WOT (wide open throttle) accelerations to clear the carbon out. That is all it takes to eliminate the problem and prevent it from re-occurring.

Occasional WOT accelerations also help seat the rings to the ring lands and exercise the rings and keep them mobile and from becoming stuck in carbon in the ring lands. At high RPM and WOT the rings move around on the piston - they actually rotate on the piston and will polish away any carbon and seat themselves to the sides of the ring grooves. This is especially important on the 2000 and later Northstars which had hard anodized top ring lands on the pistons. Very hard and wear resistant - also harder to break-in and seat the rings to the sides of the ring-lands to promote the best possible seal. Many oil consumption complaints on the 2000 and later engines are related, to some extent, with the rings never seating to the sides of the ring-grooves due to lack of load as the engine was babied around forever. Even engines with rings stuck in the ring-grooves due to carbon build up can eventually be freed up with enough high RPM operation.

WOTs warm up the engine thoroughly and clean out the exhaust due to temperature in the exhaust and high flow rates blasting particles, rust and such out of the system.

Frequent WOT operation will not hurt the engine or the transmission. They're designed for that. The healthiest engines at high miles are always the ones that are run the hardest. Rings are free on the pistons and sealing; no carbon buildup.

The exercise that I think works best for many things is to select manual 2nd gear on an isolated stretch of highway. This takes the transmission shifting out of the question if you are worried about hurting it. Start at 55 MPH or so and go to WOT in 2nd gear and hold it until the RPM reaches near the normal shift point - i.e. 6500 for an L37 and 6000 for an LD8. Hold the throttle wide open until the engine reaches, say, 6200 and then just let completely off the throttle. Leave the transmission in 2nd so that the engine brakes the car and creates some pretty heavy over-run conditions at high vacuum levels. Let it slow until it is about 55 or so and then go to WOT again and repeat. This exercise really loads the rings, allows variable RPM operation at WOT for several seconds continuously, creates heavy over-run which tends to unload the rings and make them move and thus exercise them in the ring grooves and it will blow-out carbon and the exhaust - all without creating a spectacle of yourself and attracting the attention of cops. You can do it on most any freeway and stay within the 70-75 MPH range allowable. Once a week like this will keep the engine cleaned out and healthy and is DEFINITELY recommended for the Northstar in particular.

The Northstar engine was designed/developed/validated to be run hard. It was expected that people would use the performance of the engine - which few people seem to do. The biggest single problem that many issues stem from is lack of use at full throttle by the owners. It just doesn't like to be babied around. The rings are low-tension by design for good high RPM operating characteristics and low friction/good power. They work best if "used" and kept free.

In every conversation with owners I have had, once the owner started doing the WOTs and using the power of the engine they report no more carbon rap, better oil economy, no "smoke" when they do light it up (keep the exhaust cleaned out. If you notice a "cloud" at WOT then you are not doing enough WOTs...) etc... A bit of judicious use of the other end of the throttle travel is a GOOD thing.

I did this religiously every other week, and, I just sold my 2004 over the weekend - the engine and transmission were still performing well at 140,000 miles.  I just wasn't willing to do everything else the car needed to put it back on the road after sitting for the last year with limited use.  The $450 I sold it for should make for a fun night at the casino.   

[bcroe]

According to that input, my engines will ever have any carbon buildup
or stuck rings.

Agree some wide open throttle will not hurt the engine, if it is not
over reved.  I do not agree that shifting thru the gears at full power
will not shorten the life of an automatic trans.  While engines go on
and on here, I have blown/replaced/upgraded the trans on every car
I have owned.  Bruce Roe

[201Brinley]

Thank you for the suggestion. I would doubt the car was run at high speeds over the past 10 years; my father drove it around town.

[cadillacmike68]

You really do need to open up the NorthStars up a regular basis.

It is a Seven or 7.5 quart system so there is a lot of oil. That's part of the coolant loss limp home system which will shut down one or more cylinders in the event of coolant loss. You can drive the car for up to 50 miles at 50mph, but you better end up home or at a shop to correct the coolant problem AND change the oil as it will be very degraded.

My 2009 STS never used oil between changes and while the 2000 ElDorado conv used a bit it wasn't excessive.

[spolij]

In the 60's engines you checked the oil level with the engine running. Lot of oil sets in the heads and this makes the reading a little low. Filling it with engine running won't hurt.

[Bob Hoffmann CLC#96]

I beg to differ with you.

[35-709]

Any engine that I have dealt with, ideal time to check the oil is when the engine has been sitting and is cool, or at least has had a chance to sit for a bit after running it.  I was involved in my family's automobile business in the '60s and '70s, grew up hanging around the dealership shop before that as a kid.  Been involved with auto, marine and aircraft engines most of my life --- never heard of checking the oil while the engine was running, couldn't possibly be accurate. 
The transmission fluid level is what should be checked with the engine running and the transmission warmed to operating temperature.     

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

The transmission fluid level is what should be checked with the engine running and the transmission warmed to operating temperature. 

That is for GM Transmissions, and Ford you have to stop the engine and dip about 5 seconds after stopping.

Most dipsticks for Transmissions will have written on them the individual process.

Bruce.