1955 Autotronic Eye

[mrlsc1]

Hi everyone!  The headlight dimmer isn't working on my '55.  I saw a 1954 control box posted for sale.  Are they the same and interchangable? TIA, Larry

[Cadillac Jack 82]

You probably just need to change out the tubes or headlight switch.  Do you have a shop manual?

[Cadman-iac]

Larry, I have a book with some information on the 54, 55, and 56 systems, and I believe it's got the schematics for them as well. I'll check it out and let you know what if anything I find. Give me a little bit of time to review it.
There may be someone else who knows this already who can tell you that now.

Rick

[J. Gomez]

Hi everyone!  The headlight dimmer isn't working on my '55.  I saw a 1954 control box posted for sale.  Are they the same and interchangable? TIA, Larry

Larry,

FYI

http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=159006.msg455313#msg455313

I just completed retrofitting four (4) amplifier boxes with the upgrades/modification mention on the above post. I’m currently working on the mods for the vibrators, in case you are interested.

As for your question; do you know for sure the amplifier is the issue on your case?

The tubes more often are not the problems with the amplifier, the old mechanical vibrator is one of the main issues. They either get stuck (contacts get welded) or they vibrate erratically causing problems with the output circuits that feed the phototube on the dash.

If you do a search you will find several other post on possible solutions, just one word of caution these units generate up to 800V AC so be very careful while working around them.

Also, for the ’55 there were two units made the early ones have one control adjustment on the amplifier “HOLD” and the “DIM” on the phototube with the later ones both were on the amplifier.

HTH

Good luck..!

[Cadman-iac]

Yes, Jose knows these systems well.

Here's what I found in my National Service Data manual.  Unfortunately it doesn't have the schematics for the controller itself, but it does give you the layout of the rest of the system.
I hope it helps some.

Rick

PS: Apparantly at the time of the printing of this book, they didn't know of any changes to the system for 56, or they worked the same way as 55 so only referred to the 55 section for information.
And the information for the 54 is very limited.

[J. Gomez]

Yes, Jose knows these systems well.

Here's what I found in my National Service Data manual.  Unfortunately it doesn't have the schematics for the controller itself, but it does give you the layout of the rest of the system.
I hope it helps some.

Rick

PS: Apparantly at the time of the printing of this book, they didn't know of any changes to the system for 56, or they worked the same way as 55 so only referred to the 55 section for information.
And the information for the 54 is very limited.

Rick,

Would you mind making the following marks/correction on the manual, the drawings are incorrect.   

On the top picture diagram;

a-   The power relay case is grounded.
b-   The “yellow” wire from the footswitch that shows on terminal “B” on the power relay should go to relay metal base. The “light blue” which is +12V from the headlight switch is correct on that terminal.

On the middle picture;

a-   The “yellow” wire is also connected to the “B” terminal which should be on the metal base “ground” of the power relay.

There was an error on the ’56 Service Manual as well which shows the same layout on Section 13 page 13-5 Fig.13.8 Autronic-Eye wiring which was corrected under the January ’56 Serviceman (attach below). The same wiring error is shown on the '56 Service Manual Section 16 page 16-E-42 Fig. 16-E-7 which we still waiting for the Serviceman correction on that one. 

I believe the National Service Data manual copy the incorrect data from the Service Manual. 

Also attached is the correction for the version of the National Service Data manual.

[Cadman-iac]

Wow! That's good to know. I'm glad I posted those or I never would have known they were wrong. Thanks Jose, as always,  you a wealth of information. I'll get that corrected in my books as soon as I can. Thanks for catching the errors.
I have only one drawing of the system in my 56 factory service manual, and it's added to the complete schematic for the car, kind of like a footnote, in a small square on the bottom of the page. It sucks as far as being anything useful.
I have a very good schematic in a supplemental manual for 1960, but I don't know if there are any differences between the two models. I don't suppose you would know that?

Rick

[TonyZappone #2624]

A simplistic response to the Autronic EYe theories, my humble opinion, is to forget its there and disable it.  An old time wrench who came to Miami after WWII told me in his experience (he had a big garage in Miami) Many cars burned up when this unit was defective.  I don't present this as gospel, but when I saw that 800 volts on our recent post, it sure made me remember what I was told.

[J. Gomez]

A simplistic response to the Autronic EYe theories, my humble opinion, is to forget its there and disable it.  An old time wrench who came to Miami after WWII told me in his experience (he had a big garage in Miami) Many cars burned up when this unit was defective.  I don't present this as gospel, but when I saw that 800 volts on our recent post, it sure made me remember what I was told.

Tony,

These boxes only draws around 1.5A DC voltage when working, the ones I’ve tested are in the 1A range. The AC voltage generated by the amplifier although very high the current is extremely low also it is not like our household AC type which is 60Hz (same rate as our human heart) these are around 115 HZ, but again still AC voltage.

One drawback with these is the way they were built to reduce the voltage from 12V (battery voltage) down to 6.8V DC to operate the vibrators were rudimentary back then (no solid state components    ). So the ballast vacuum tube which helps in reducing the voltage got a bit hot and with no ventilation it get really cooking inside.   

All the ones I’ve worked were cover with some white powder all around, not sure if it is calcium due to some chemical reaction with heat plus electrical  , I’m not an expert on that side   . Unfortunately that white stuff cause major problem with the functioning of the amplifier as well.   

As you mention, most folks tend to disable them all together since they are cumbersome to get them working and you need the special tool to get the adjustment setup. But they are a good topic of discussion and intrigue to show their operation (when working correctly) to new generations.   

[Cadman-iac]

I was fortunate enough to have most of the system in my parts car, and I found the "eye" on the top of a dash pad for sale at a swap meet some 20 plus years ago.
I tested it in the garage after making all new wiring harnesses for my car.  I used a small flashlight to simulate the oncoming car headlights and it worked perfectly.

I did see that white film on the inside of the control box, and I figured it was just from the heat of operation and humidity over the years.

I don't know if I would use it for extended periods of time, but I would definitely use it now and then simply to watch it work. I love the old technology and the novelty of it.

Rick

[J. Gomez]

I have a very good schematic in a supplemental manual for 1960, but I don't know if there are any differences between the two models. I don't suppose you would know that?

Rick,

I do not have much details on the internals for the Guide-Matic version they do function similar as the older Autronic-Eye but they have NO vibrators and NO dangerous high voltages. 

HTH

[Lexi]

Hello Jose. Back on the Mid-Century Forum I posted those tips on Autronic Eye service, from 1956. Do you recall whether they also had factual errors? Also, there was a fellow on Ebay who was selling modern transister replacement units to replace the box under the hood. Anyone have any experience with this unit? Clay/Lexi

[J. Gomez]

Hello Jose. Back on the Mid-Century Forum I posted those tips on Autronic Eye service, from 1956. Do you recall whether they also had factual errors? Also, there was a fellow on Ebay who was selling modern transister replacement units to replace the box under the hood. Anyone have any experience with this unit? Clay/Lexi

Clay,

Yes, the ones you had at the Mid-Century those are all correct, and again thanks for sharing them.

The only person I know that made a box to replace the amplifier was Barry L. Dorr P.E by Dorr engineering Services Inc. I do not believe he still in business since his site is no longer in service.

I do not know much about the box you posted below but not sure why there is a toggle switch for “AUTO” and “Manual” if the same function can be accomplished by setting the footswitch on either settings.    Unless this box connects directly to the phototube

Sorry can’t help you on this puzzle. 

[Lexi]

Jose thank you as always. Wish now I had made inquiries with this Ebayer to learn more about this product. Hope all is well with you. Clay/Lexi

[Cadman-iac]

Rick,

I do not have much details on the internals for the Guide-Matic version they do function similar as the older Autronic-Eye but they have NO vibrators and NO dangerous high voltages. 

HTH

Do you have the schematics for the Guidematic units then? I can post the ones I have if not. This 1960 supplement manual I have is like new. I actually have 2 of them, one is not in such good shape.
Rick

[J. Gomez]

Do you have the schematics for the Guidematic units then? I can post the ones I have if not. This 1960 supplement manual I have is like new. I actually have 2 of them, one is not in such good shape.
Rick

Rick,

I send you a PM.

Thanks,