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Cadillac blue engine paint

Started by Cadman-iac, March 30, 2020, 10:29:20 AM

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Cadman-iac

 There have been a couple of threads recently about engine paint and it got me thinking about it.
Years ago I know that you could get a rattle can of Cadillac blue engine paint from just about any parts store.  I've looked for it recently and haven't been able to find any.  The closest thing to it is  (God forgive me) a Ford blue.
Where do you guys get it from, and is it the dark blue that was used in the 50's, 60's, and 70's?
I know that Cadillac switched to the corporate blue, (light blue) used by Chevrolet in 77 I think it was. I'd rather not use that if I could get the correct one.
I know that there is, or at least was, a Cadillac dark blue available from POR-15, but I don't know how good that stuff is. I just happened to find a small can of it a few years back, but I'm leery of using it. It's a big task to remove it if it doesn't work or look right, or if it won't stick to the engine correctly.
So does anyone have any suggestions on a source for this paint? And which brand might be better than the others?

Thanks in advance for your help.
Rick
CLC# 32373
1956 Coupe Deville A/C car "Norma Jean"

brian faull clc#25881

 I like Bill Hirsch paint the best.
brian faull clc#25881

Dan LeBlanc

Bill Hirsch is still the go-to for paint.

You can also have it mixed at either a BASF or DuPont autobody supply house.

BASF (formerly RM - who was the supplier of the original Cadillac blue to GM) formula # 243212
Dupont SpectraMaster colour number BS454 is also bloody close to original.
Dan LeBlanc
1977 Lincoln Continental Town Car

Cadman-iac

Quote from: brian faull clc#25881 on March 30, 2020, 10:35:34 AM
I like Bill Hirsch paint the best.
I've never heard of that before. Is that a spray paint? And from where do you get it?
CLC# 32373
1956 Coupe Deville A/C car "Norma Jean"

Cadman-iac

#4
Thanks Dan,
I think we were posting at the same time.
So you have to spray this on with a regular automotive paint gun then?
I have those, so no problem if that's the case. Can they also put it into a spray can,(rattle can)?
I have a paint shop I have dealt with in the past.
What sort of prep work is involved, and would it be better to paint it before or after assembly?
CLC# 32373
1956 Coupe Deville A/C car "Norma Jean"

Bill Balkie 24172

#5
Hello ,
   I purchased  this on Amazon and the spray on Ebay . it looks perfect to me . Just like the original . 28 Dallors free shipping

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V987G7W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

dillac-Dark-Blue-Engine-Enamel-12-oz-Aerosol-Spray-Paint/143111101055?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBID

    Bill
Bill Balkie
1970 Coupe DeVille
2009 CTS

Cape Cod Fleetwood

There are 2 kinds of cars in the world, Cadillac and everything else....

The Present -1970 Fleetwood Brougham

The Past -
1996 Deville Concours
1987 Sedan De Ville "Commonwealth Edition"
1981 Coupe De Ville (8-6-4)
1976 Sedan De Ville
1975 Sedan De Ville

The Daily Driver and work slave -
2008 GMC Acadia SLT *options/all

Dan LeBlanc

#7
They can put it into a spray bomb, but I found the colour was not as accurate, and the paint wasn't as durable when done that way as they have to use a straight enamel to do it.  Results were better colour wise in Limco 1K acrylic enamel through a gun.  You could go whole hog and have it mixed in base/clear, although I haven't gone that route yet.

Instead of breaking out the paint gun, you could run it through a Preval sprayer.  They're cheap and disposable, available at Home Depot.  It's basically an aerosol attached to a glass jar filled with the 1K.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Preval-9-oz-Complete-Spray-Gun-267/202533738

I've used the Hirsch and it looks the part, and holds up well also. 

It's all about preference.  Shipping paint into Canada is a pain in the cornhole, so I go with what I can do locally.
Dan LeBlanc
1977 Lincoln Continental Town Car

35-709

Cadillac Engine Blue remained the same from the first year 1953 until Cadillac went with the Corporate Blue in '77 or so.  It is no longer available at your local parts store and hasn't been for a long time.  Bill Hirsch is the usual go-to place for it in quarts or rattle cans as Laurie noted.  The brush-on in quarts flows out very nicely or spray it as Dan suggested.
It has been said that Rustoleum Royal Blue mixed with Rustoleum Black can be mixed to come very close to the Cadillac Engine Blue but you don't get the high temp. qualities.
Please don't paint it corporate blue --- wayyy ugly on a pre-'77 engine, in my opinion.  Ford Dark Blue is kind of close but no cigar, it could be used I suppose.

   
1935 Cadillac Sedan resto-mod "Big Red"
1973 Cadillac Caribou - Sold - but still in the family
1950 Jaguar Mark V Saloon resto-mod - Sold
1942 Cadillac 6269 - Sold
1968 Pontiac Bonneville Convertible - Sold
1950 Packard 2dr. Club Sedan
1935 Glenn Pray - Auburn Boattail Speedster, Gen. 2

Lexi

#9
That looks like it Laurie, \mm/. Love the generic no frills labeling. Rick, when I bought Hirsch Cadillac (blue) paint last year it was available in both brush on and spray can formats. I think it is good paint and close to original color, but see my post today, in the topic thread 1956 intake manifold paint. Clay/Lexi

http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=159483.msg458809#new

P.S. Got your emails and will respond probably today.

jdemerson

Quote from: Cape Cod Fleetwood on March 30, 2020, 11:09:34 AM
This is the authentic Cadillac Blue engine paint, currently in stock.

https://www.hirschauto.com/AEROSOL-ENGINE-ENAMEL/productinfo/EEA-SPRAY/CAD%20DK%20BLU/

I've used this and am quite happy with it. Purchased within the past year.

John Emerson
John Emerson
Middlebury, Vermont
CLC member #26790
1952 Series 6219X
http://bit.ly/21AGnvn

Cadman-iac

#11
Dan, Brian,  Laurie, and Clay,
Thank you all very much for the great information.  It looks like the Bill Hirsch paint would be the easiest way to do it, and the mixed paint might be better suited, I'm not sure honestly. I have plenty of time to make up my mind right now.  The engine is apart for inspection, since I had assembled it originally over 30 years ago but never used it. I'm glad I did tear it down as there was some issues with the lubricant used on the cam drying out, as well as for some bugs that managed to get inside it despite my best efforts to keep it sealed.
I also have a spot of rust in a couple of cylinder walls that I need to have looked at.  I'm not sure if it's going to be a problem or not yet.
When I initially built it, I had intended to use it before too long, but life got in the way of my plans, and 1 year turned into 2, into 10 and so on.
I'm embarrassed to say that the color I had originally painted it was a Caterpillar yellow, as the intended recipient of the engine was going to be my '66 Chevy truck. It was going to be my  "Caderpillar", and I wanted it to stick out like a sore thumb. It did, but the paint didn't fair well in storage, and that bright yellow Caterpillar color isn't available now either. Just as well,  it wouldn't look good in a Cadillac anyway.
Many thanks to you all for the great information. At least now I know I m not stuck with Ford blue as my only option. Before I thought of asking about it here, I had bought a couple of cans of the Ford blue just to see how it looked, and I'm not impressed. It's a dull finish at best,  even though it's the Duplicolor engine enamel.

Rick
CLC# 32373
1956 Coupe Deville A/C car "Norma Jean"

"Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364

Big advantage to having time.  It lets you apply the paint and let it cure between coats and finally as the manufacturer suggests.  This adds exponentially to the serviceability and color retention.
Greg Surfas
Cadillac Kid-Greg Surfas
Director Modified Chapter CLC
CLC #15364
66 Coupe deVille (now gone to the UK)
72 Eldo Cpe  (now cruising the sands in Quatar)
73 Coupe deVille
75 Coupe deElegance
76 Coupe deVille
79 Coupe de ville with "Paris" (pick up) option and 472 motor
514 inch motor now in '73-

Cadman-iac

Quote from: "Cadillac Kid"  Greg Surfas 15364 on March 30, 2020, 11:55:16 AM
Big advantage to having time.  It lets you apply the paint and let it cure between coats and finally as the manufacturer suggests.  This adds exponentially to the serviceability and color retention.
Greg Surfas

Yes, I noticed that.  The yellow paint has had 30 years to cure, and it's a pain in the butt to remove now. The best solvents even take forever to cut it. If I could I would put it in the blast cabinet and take it off that way. Probably not such a good idea however.
Thanks Greg,
Rick
CLC# 32373
1956 Coupe Deville A/C car "Norma Jean"

savemy67

Hello Rick,

You may want to think about how many cans of the Hirsch paint you will need.  The shipping for one spray can can be as expensive as the paint.  You may need more than one spray can for one engine, so consider getting two spray cans in order to spread the shipping costs over both cans.

Respectfully submitted,

Christopher Winter
Christopher Winter
1967 Sedan DeVille hardtop

rwchatham CLC 21892

No single part paint in a spray can will last , much better results having your local paint supplier mix up a quart of single stage that uses a catalyst to harden .
R. Waligora

Eric DeVirgilis CLC# 8621

Never got good gloss from the BH spray can paint. Always dries to semi gloss to semi flat.
A Cadillac Motorcar is a Possession for which there is no Acceptable Substitute

Dan LeBlanc

Quote from: Eric DeVirgilis CLC# 8621 on March 30, 2020, 12:33:59 PM
Never got good gloss from the BH spray can paint. Always dries to semi gloss to semi flat.

I've even tried it out of a gun - same result.
Dan LeBlanc
1977 Lincoln Continental Town Car

Cadman-iac

#18
Thank you Christopher,  that's definitely something to consider. I haven't had any paint shipped before, is it really that expensive now?

As for the in house mixing, what sort of prep work is required,  meaning do you have to prime it before you paint it,  or does that paint go directly onto the metal?
Do you have to etch the metal with anything, these sorts of things that are necessary for painting a car?
I don't know anything about this kind of engine paint and I don't want to get in over my head with a really complicated process, because the screw ups are a pain to fix. Not to mention expensive.
Thanks for your input.

Rick
CLC# 32373
1956 Coupe Deville A/C car "Norma Jean"

Lexi

#19
Rick if I correctly remember the Hirsch instructions; you can apply the paint directly onto clean, raw cast iron. No problem there. Old paint, grease, dirt etc., must be removed first though. When painting other metal surfaces such as valve covers, oil pans, etc., make sure you first prime coat with the Hirsch grey metal primer first. Great product, easy idiot proof to use. Hardly if ever sags. Believe it is also formulated for high heat applications. The Hirsch Cadillac dark blue brush on Cadillac engine paint works very, very well and gives a richer gloss than the spray format. I also seem to recall that it was NOT recommended to apply the Hirsch spray paint over an area that was previously brushed on as it may encourage de-lamination, (via solvent attack), even with the base coat being fully cured. Think best to let stand for up to 2 weeks prior to starting your engine. And yes, Chris as usual is right on, buy 2 cans. I would actually buy 3. When coating the primed steel areas more paint is required to "hide" the grey primer color. It has been my experience that say between every 8 - 10 Hirsch spray cans you get a dud (bad nozzle?), and in some cases there is a complete failure of the spray can to work. You don't want to experience that come paint application time. Clay/Lexi