1970 eldorado survivor fighting electrical gremlin

[billmorrow]

hello again..
i'm the guy who repaired the driver door to body wiring.. all that work is done, BUT..
when i replaced the blown fuse i came upon a strange anomaly..
both doors closed, both courtesy and warning lights on both doors are/go out along with the other courtesy lights..
open passenger door, all courtesy lights come on EXCEPT the driver door courtesy light and the red warning light..
close passenger door and driver door courtesy and warning light come ON while other lights behave as the should and go out..
i have rechecked my repairs to the door to body wiring and all looks to be correct..
wipers work as they should, door lock switch works, all windows work, have not tested the window lockout switch yet but i suspect it works..
cigar lighters do not appear to have power but that is the next gremlin i'll chase..
my question is how are the red and white lenses removed from the courtesy/warning light fixture..
i am a bit scared to try to pry them out without damaging them IF they should be removed in another way..
i want to check the voltage on the courtesy light in the driver door when it comes on..

thanks..

[chrisntam]

Here’s a pic of the lenses from my ‘70 DVC. Tangs on both long sides but one side is broken on both lenses shown.

[chrisntam]

Insert a small blade screwdriver to push the tang down to release it. Be gentle they are very fragile.

[76eldo]

 Check your body fuse and look at the lighters closely.
Blown body fuse due to a short in a lighter socket can make your courtesy lights do strange things.
Before you risk breaking a lens check this first.

[billmorrow]

thanks for the tip on the lighters..
and thanks for the picture of the lenses..

[billmorrow]

update:
lenses came out easily, thank you..
gremlin issue solved, the 2 orange wires in the harness between the driver door and body were reversed.. made that change and gremlin gone..

original issue arose again..
now that the wire harness is correctly repaired the wiper switch has shown itself to be bad in that the 15 ohm wirewound resister mounting it corroded, most likely due to the heat generated by that resister over the last 50 years..
so i shall start a new thread on this issue and my thoughts on how to repair those tiny copper rivets and prevent that engineering defect from returning for the next 50 years, not that i expect to be here to know.. but then one never knows what the future might hold..
(i am reminded of the jack webb, johnny carson copper clapper caper show..

[Daryl Chesterman]

For those enquiring minds who don't know about the Jack Webb, Johnny Carson copper clapper caper show:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jgYbogp1Ha0

Daryl Chesterman