Engine oil

[Harold Brown]

Would like to know what would be the best oil to use in my 1952 331 with a fresh rebuild. Break in and there afterwards. I have zinc additive for break in. Thanks

[Lexi]

There are a number of choices out there. For regular operation, I use Valvoline VR1 10W30 racing oil. It has the proper level of zinc already added, which I feel is probably better, (& cheaper) than adding it afterwards. Designed for push rod and flat tappet engines. The product number is 822388, which is for "Dinosaur Juice", (non-synthetic). I believe there is also a synthetic blend that they offer as well. Shop around as the price jumps all over the place. Below is a Canadian Amazon listing, though I purchased this case of 6 quarts for $20 less at a local oil supply place, (Crescent Oil in Hamilton, Ontario). That is a great place to shop for lubricants and you can buy in bulk many items, (like Dexron III for our hydramatics, for eg). As for break in oil, your machine shop should have filled it with such already or they can recommend a product. Clay/Lexi

https://www.amazon.ca/Valvoline-Racing-10W30-946ml-case/dp/B00DJ4FMK2/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=valvoline+822388&qid=1589048042&sr=8-2

Edit: For winter storage I change the oil and re-fill with a conventional, sometimes lighter oil, then I add my ZDDP Plus additive. Just in case I got to start it in the cold.

[TJ Hopland]

Did your builder have any recommendations for break in or otherwise?

[hornetball]

Be careful with racing oil.  That oil is meant to be changed frequently (i.e., every "race") and is optimized for anti-wear at high RPM.  It doesn't have nearly as much anti-acid or detergency as an oil designed for extended "street" use.  After break-in, let oil analysis be your guide.  Here's an article discussing differences:

https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/racing-oil-vs-street-oil-know-the-differences/

After break-in, I use HD engine oil (usually Rotella T6 5W40, but sometimes there's a good sale on another brand) on all my old cars that don't go to the track.  Pretty cheap at Wal Mart or Tractor Supply, decent anti-wear, anti-acid and detergency.  It's a far better oil than was available back in the day and is optimized for low-RPM, high-torque applications (i.e., Cadillacs).  The anti-acid and detergency properties are also good for infrequently driven cars.  My old cars run quiet and smooth with it and oil analysis samples (I do this sporadically, not every change) come back clean.

Data point of 1.  Everyone will have their favorite.  Did you rebuild shop have a recommendation?

Oil threads are always . . . oil threads. 

[Lexi]

Good points, that is why I change this oil every 300 miles or so, even though Valvoline claims this product is also "compatible with passenger vehicles" as well. For our collector cars with low annual mileage this is affordable and would seem to offer a good level of protection. Even on my recent rebuild, (and prior to), come oil change the color of the oil appears consistent with other more conventional oils I have used. That must be at least in part due to the detergent doing its job. Clay/Lexi

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

For breaking in any engine, I use straight 30 weight oil, and then change it at the first service for an oil with lots of numbers and a letter or two.

You don't want any "Friction Modifiers" in the break-in oil, as this retards the bedding-in of the Piston Rings.

Bruce.

[79 Eldorado]

Royal Purple offers specific break-in oil. I suspect it can be purchased locally but Summit Racing also carries it.

Scott

[cadman56]

I always used Phillips 66 TropArtic 10W30 synthetic blend in all my 56s  for breakin and every day driving.  Never any problems or noises ever after thousands of miles.

[62devillecoupe]

This is what I used on my most recent oil change.

https://lucasoil.com/products/hot-rods-classic-cars/hot-rod-classic-car-10w-30-motor-oil

[scotth3886]

This is what I used on my most recent oil change.

https://lucasoil.com/products/hot-rods-classic-cars/hot-rod-classic-car-10w-30-motor-oil

Me too, but 10w40

[62devillecoupe]

Yes I used 10W-40 as well. I should have been more specific.

[David Greenburg]

I’ve been using the Shell Rotella (diesel), primarily for its zinc content, but the Lucas oil looks interesting.  I’ve been wary of the durability/lifespan of racing oils, since, as noted above, racing applications involve frequent oil changes.  But the Lucas additives seem to have this covered.

[Lexi]

Yes, the Lucas Oil looks promising, but part of it's description reads: "Lucas Hot Rod & Classic Car Motor Oil SAW 10W-30 is for muscle, showroom, classic and trophy cars without catalytic converters. It can be used in racing applications. Not recommended for passenger car use." So it seems to indicate that it is also more or less a racing oil but also fit for classic cars, but not recommended for passenger car use, (unlike the Valvoline I have been using). Reading up on engine oils always seem to be a bottomless pit. I like Hornetball's comments regarding having your oil tested. My oil changes are actually closer to every 500 - 700 miles, (not 300 as reported), when I checked my log. With our classic car low mileage use, frequent oil changes and light duty hopefully translates into added protection when compared to conventional oil, with no issues. Clay/Lexi

[Harold Brown]

I called my builder and he recommended Joe Gibbs Driven 30W break in oil. Change the oil after 3-4 hundred miles and then use a quality oil ( he suggested Valvoline) 10W30 conventional oil .

[hornetball]

In theory, our cars should be better than most when it comes to flat-tappet camshaft wear.  We run low-RPM torque motors with soft valve springs.  A far cry from what a muscle car owner has to deal with.

OTOH, when I did my timing chain, I had to replace the camshaft as well for 3 low lobes.  So . . .

[dadscad]

I have been using Amsoil's HDD 5-30 diesel/gas engine oil in my 63? It has the proper amount of additives to protect the cam and lifters. Amsoil also offers their ZRod oil designed specifically for the antique and performance engine market. Amsoil has an excellent break in oil and an assembly lube for new engines. HTH

[TJ Hopland]

I called my builder and he recommended Joe Gibbs Driven 30W break in oil. Change the oil after 3-4 hundred miles and then use a quality oil ( he suggested Valvoline) 10W30 conventional oil

That is the kind of answer I expected from a builder.  They often do have a specific brand for break in but then just say quality for regular use.   Interesting he did say conventional.   Maybe the reason is he knows this is a lightly driven car only used in nice weather so there isn't the need for the wider temp range you would get with a synthetic like for example a 5w-40 which has to be at least a blend if not full synthetic.

[jackworstell]

For breaking in any engine, I use straight 30 weight oil, and then change it at the first service for an oil with lots of numbers and a letter or two.

You don't want any "Friction Modifiers" in the break-in oil, as this retards the bedding-in of the Piston Rings.

Bruce.

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Best advice I've seen on motor oil....Love it.
Jack Worstell