1941 Series 60 Motor Mounts

[Ohjai]

Was able to investigate my new stable mate today, I notice the front motor mounts could use a bit of newness to them.  I found the two on either side of the engine, are there more lurking somewhere else?

What is a good source of supply for these and other items I know I will need in the future?

I have seen the ads for CaddyDaddy but that is the only one I know of.

Any help and suggestions on what I should be looking for to get my new ride safely on the road again.

Planning on Diamondback Tires
Shell Rotella Engine oil
Amsoil for the rear end and gear box

How do you check the shock absorbers for the proper amount of fluid?

Anything else?

Thanks

Jim

[Cadman-iac]

You might try Steele Rubber for those mounts. However they may want you to send them yours and they will recast/bond new rubber onto your brackets. They don't actually make the metal pieces, just the rubber between them.

Rick

[Jeff Hansen]

Hi Jim,

You found the two side motor mounts.  The only other mount is at the rear of the transmission.

Terrill Machine in DeLeon, TX would be a good source for your motor mounts.  (254) 893-2610.  They list for $65 pair in their March 2020 ad in Hemmings (they advertise there every month). Terrill also sells the transmission mount. No web presence for Terrill, but check their Hemmings ad for all they have to offer.

There are a number of vendors who sell mechanical parts, a few who sell the jewelry, and a number of us hobbyists with parts.  Let us know what you need and we can point you to the various suppliers.

Regarding the front shocks, there is a fill plug on the top outside edge of the shock body - accessible from under the hood.  Remove the plug and stick something in there to gauge the fluid level.  I have heard motorcycle fork oil is a good fluid to use.  Others will chime in, I'm sure.  Rear shocks are more difficult as you have to crawl under the back of the car.  The shocks are on the inside of the frame rails.  Your shop manual should help you out.

As a new '41 owner, I don't know if anyone has mentioned this to you yet about closing your hood: never drop your hood on to the catches!  Always lower the hood gently.  When the hood is all the way down, lower the lady down for the rods to engage the catches on the radiator shroud and lock everything in place.

BTW, did you find the dome light frame and lens I slipped into the car before it left Delaware?

Hope this helps you!
Jeff

[Ohjai]

Thanks Rick and Jeff.

Yes  Jeff, I found the lens and frame, thank you very much.

I just ordered the two front mounts from Terrill, he did not have the transmission mount and pointed me to Caddy Daddy.  I ordered it from them, so I have the three mounts on the way.

Any thoughts about the tires?  I am leaning toward the Diamondback Radials.

Jeff thanks for the hint about the hood, this morning it was a bit heavy after a rain storm, and it almost fell on me, the springs did not like the extra weight.  I will be more gentle in the future.

I plan on changing the fluids this weekend, by what I see, I don't think this car has been driven much the  last few years.  I hope to change that a slight bit.

Jim

[G Pennington]

Another thing about the hood:
When opening,  raise the goddess  to unlatch, but lift the hood by grabbing the front hood molding.  If you raise the hood by continuing to push on the goddess you can break the center hood molding.   It's pot metal and rather fragile.

[marty55cdv]

  Jim , congrats on the Fleetwood , I have owned mine for several years, the car came with radials and made it ride like a dream, I replaced them a couple of years ago with the  Bias Look-A-like radials which have the narrower tread width and are a little taller,  they made the car feel like I had put in power steering but they do give up a little in the handling department,  I believe diamondback has the bias look also.    Good luck  ! Marty

[Ohjai]

My web browsing has led me to a couple of brake part suppliers, White Post and Caddy Daddy, and I think Rock Auto has some things.

Tim Rice told me about The Carburetor Shop in Eldon, Missouri.

What I want to avoid is the poor or unknown quality of pieces and parts coming out of China.  When I was a kid, we avoided Japanese junk, now we are avoiding Chinese junk and virus.

I found this on eBay, is it one of the THINGS i need to make the shutters work?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kysor-Cadillac-Shutterstat-1047-36000-28-180-degree-/352868792179?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

I really appreciate all the help and encouragement I am receiving from all of you.

Jim

[Jeff Hansen]

Jim,

For your radiator shutters, you're missing a yoke, a clevis pin, and a linkage rod.  Attached are photos from my '60S.  What I'm not sure of is how the linkage rod attaches to the shutters after the rod passes through the radiator shroud.  It may just hook in place.  Perhaps a well placed mirror and light around that area of the radiator shroud will answer that question.

Jeff

[Ohjai]

Thanks Jeff, that helps explain it a bit for me.  I will check and see what it is that I need.

Jim

[Scott Anderson CLC#26068]

Hi Jim -
A couple of thoughts from my side (if you’re not already having enough from me offline...
Brake part suppliers - I was able to get wheel cylinder kits and assemblies from my local NAPA store. Believe I have some extras if it’s helpful. Also, White Post as having the stainless sleeved Master and Wheel cylinders was a plus in deciding to buy my particular car. Do be aware that they requires standard brake fluid (IE not synthetic). Being one who does like synthetic I switched over and was able to learn a couple things. They may or may not begin leaking - I had both. It’s use voids the WP warranty. When asked about it as I wasn’t aware, it makes them very angry. I also learned of NAPA’s parts as above being compatible.

Fwiw I believe I had my brake shoes relined at a heavy duty truck shop, just another potential option.

Another carb rebuild option is Daytona Parts in Florida. Not an anti-vote to the one you list, I’ve never used them. Just an option as I did have good luck with Daytona.

Towards different posts re raising and lowering of your hood, after releasing the Goddess be careful as to the placement of your fingers underneath the hood as you begin lifting or latching closed. It’s easy to get them in the openings with the latch rollers. Probably more pleasant ways to a manicure...!

My web browsing has led me to a couple of brake part suppliers, White Post and Caddy Daddy, and I think Rock Auto has some things.

Tim Rice told me about The Carburetor Shop in Eldon, Missouri.

What I want to avoid is the poor or unknown quality of pieces and parts coming out of China.  When I was a kid, we avoided Japanese junk, now we are avoiding Chinese junk and virus.

I found this on eBay, is it one of the THINGS i need to make the shutters work?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kysor-Cadillac-Shutterstat-1047-36000-28-180-degree-/352868792179?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

I really appreciate all the help and encouragement I am receiving from all of you.

Jim