Rochester to Edelbrock 1406

[55 ledsled]

I have my replaced a 54 Rochester carb with a new Edelbrock 1406 carb. Runs perfect out of the box. Does anyone have a photo or diagram of an add-on TV/throttle rod plate that can be mounted to the Edelbrock's throttle connections? I can't find any out there and want to TRY and make this easy. I know I have to make one but want to know if someone else has already done the work to get everything right. Any help would be great. Thanks

[goob]

I installed one on our 59 convertible...used part of the linkage from the original carb..drilled a couple small holes to attach the plate to the edelbrock...good to go!

[55 ledsled]

Did you have to bend the TV rod much? I noticed on my 54 cad because the new carb is much wider than the Rochester carb things wouldn't line up so I may have to bend it. Also, what kind of carb did you take that bracket from? It's not the same as my Rochester.
If you feel like helping a Caddy brother out, could you measure and draw up a sketch of that bracket with measurements on paper, I could use it and make a pile of them for others free of charge when they need one.
Thanks for sharing this!

[55 ledsled]

By the way, I consider the 59 Cadillac the sexiest car ever made. I am jealous that you own one!! Thanks again!!

[fishnjim]

When I got the '58, it had a 1405 on it.   The TV rod lay disconnected.   So one option, just won't have any kickdown.   Depends how much hard driving you do.
All I did was get some linkage parts and bolt on a straight section.   I think I got pieces at
Summit Racing.   Afterward I got the correct Carter but now 3x2.    Solved the same issue with 3x2.
You can use your Rochester throttle assy for a pattern or possibly remove it and attach to the 1406, if the throttle plate rod is the same OD.
There is no "just buy one" part out there.   Edelbrock has a potential market there.

[55 ledsled]

The TV rod controls the length of your shift, so it is not just for kick down as far as I know.

The Edelbrock has a much longer swing so one needs to do the math to figure out the difference in location as I have found out. Also, I am finding out that since the Edelbrock is much wider the TV rod needs to be bent a bit to work.

One thing I found out during this process was that once you replace your points with upgraded electric-eye system, the ballast resister should be eliminated. When I went to start the car after carb replacement I had the electric choke hooked up to the pink ignition line on the resister and experienced complete shut off once the key was released to acc while starting. I believe the resister was limiting the amount of spark as well. My car now runs as smooth and pops right off with much more power after I removed it. Apparently the resister is only there to prevent a meltdown if you left the key on which would heat up the coil and I did not know this.

I am still having difficulty getting the correct TV rod placement on the Edelbrock and I even coped and created a mount plate from my old Rochester. If anyone has a sure-fire secret to this I am all ears!

[bctexas]

Hi Adam,

The ballast resistor is there to lower the primary voltage to the coil by about 3 volts during normal running.  The coil is designed for this reduced voltage.  When you turn the key to "start", the starter switch is wired to bypass the ballast resistor and send full battery voltage to the coil.  This is due to the fact that while the starter is running, battery voltage is drawn down due the the starter's large current draw.  So the bypass circuit in the starter switch keeps the coil running at it's "normal" voltage more or less while the starter is lowering the battery voltage.  If the coil was designed to run on the full normal running voltage, it would not get that full voltage during starting, and the lesser ignition performance that would result would make the car harder to start.

So, it sounds like when you connected the heater in the electric choke to the primary side of the coil, you provided a path to ground through the electric choke that killed the ignition with just the ballast resistor connected.  When in "start" the direct battery connection was enough current to run both the choke heater and the ignition.  That is why the engine quit when you let go of the key.  At least that is what is sounds like....

Happy Motoring!
Bernie

[55 ledsled]

Well that makes perfect sense Bernie. Thanks for explaining it to me.

So is it correct to say that the resistor is not needed after one changes out the points with a pointless ignition? I was going to use that pink wire and put it on a fuse block for my switched ignition points for my choke and electric cooling fan.

[bctexas]

Well that makes perfect sense Bernie. Thanks for explaining it to me.

So is it correct to say that the resistor is not needed after one changes out the points with a pointless ignition? I was going to use that pink wire and put it on a fuse block for my switched ignition points for my choke and electric cooling fan.

Hi Adam,

Maybe. I looked up the instructions for Pertonix conversions.  If you are talking about a Pertronix and the stock coil for instance, the instructions say to leave the resistor in place to the coil, and power the Pertronix from a direct switched battery source.  If you go with their coil, they say to eliminate the resistor and power both the Pertronx gizmo and the Pertonix coil from direct switched battery.

Good luck!
Bernie