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56 Coupe Rear drum getting hot

Started by junkyard junky, September 02, 2020, 10:47:49 PM

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junkyard junky

I've got a 56 Coupe Deville that has a right rear brake drum that keeps getting hot after driving it for 10-15 miles. Infrared thermometer said it was around 202 degrees. Driver side rear drum is about 40-45 degrees cooler. I jacked the car up and and pulled the wheels. Wheel cylinder were gummed up so I installed new wheel cylinders. Shoes were good. I switch the drums to the other side. Drove the car the following day and now the drum temps are the same but after 4 miles the temps on both sides were exactly 155 degrees. Both front and rear of the drum.  When I had the drums off , I made sure the shoes were not dragging against the drum significantly. I also noticed that the steel brake line going from the junction point on the rear axle to the passenger side rear wheel cylinder had a compression fitting installed. I guess the previous owner bought a longer line and just cut it to the correct length and sued the compression fitting.

I bought the car about 6 years ago from a guy who got it out of an attached garage. He put new brake shoes, wheel cylinders, master cylinder, brake booster, rubber brake hoses and steel brake lines.  After I had the engine rebuilt, it developed a rear main seal leak and I got disgusted with it and didn't drive it much. Basically just start it up and move it in and out of a building. Now when I drive it, I have to take my foot and help pull the pedal up.

Checking to see what the normal temp should be for a brake drum on a non highway/ interstate condition where speeds are no more than 45 mph? Been reading my manual to obtain any knowledge.  Any help or info is appreciated!  Jonathan

Lexi

Will be interested to see some posts as I got a similar situation here, but not quite as hot. One would figure that the front wheels would display a greater temperature as they do most of the work, but both of my rear wheels develop more heat. Going to look into a dragging parking brake line, with worst case scenario being the beginning of an over heating wheel bearing. Do you have any noise? How is your differential oil level? Clay/Lexi

rustytractor

I’ve had this before - turned out that the wheel bearing had collapsed so the drum was rubbing on the backplate causing friction and therefore heat.

Just a thought.
Too many cars - too little time !!

fishnjim

With that many years, needs to have the fluid flushed as well.   Tends to crystallize with age.   
I don't think this can be diagnosed from the internet.   Find a competent brake mechanic.   

Michael Petti

The usual reason a drum gets hot is the shoes are not retracting away from the drum surface.  Common causes are weak return springs, worn backing plate if high mileage car, sticking wheel cylinders, or rusted inoperative emergency brake cables that won't retract. Unless you are really good and/or have a lot of time, I agree with getting a mechanic to diagnose and repair. Try to find one who will take the time and/or has experience on older cars. These are old machines and one thing can lead to another. Good luck. Hope its something simple.

TJ Hopland

Quote from: junkyard junky on September 02, 2020, 10:47:49 PMNow when I drive it, I have to take my foot and help pull the pedal up

That is what really stands out to me.  I'm thinking there was a difference in the rear adjustment that he solved when he did the recent work but the reason it started or became obvious was what ever is causing the pedal not to return on its own. 

56 is a treadle vac?

And yes if there is a hardware store water line compression fitting on the brake line that needs to be replaced.   A brake line splice would look just like any other brake connection with the sane nuts on the line that thread into the coupling fitting, not over it like a water line would.       Those small lines are generally easy to bend by hand so I would just replace the line rather than try and find a longer splice.  You will need a double flaring tool but even cheap ones work fine on these small lines as long as you lube them in the correct places and use them properly. 
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

junkyard junky

I haven't had time to work on the car. Off from work due to the virus but been working on the farm. Cutting the last hay of the year this week. Hopefully I can get back on it and spend more time inspecting everything. Been wanting to get a new brake flaring tool, just need to decide on which one to get. I'll keep this post updated once I get back on it.

TJ Hopland

The $5 tools work fine as long as you are not trying to do the larger or stainless lines and are not trying to work in a really tight space.  Spending $50 doesn't get you a lot more.  Spending $100's does get you more but you have to ask yourself how often you need more especially if you are not expecting to have to do a bunch of lines.   
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason