Changing 59 Cadillac Single Brake Line To Dual

[DylanFan52]

I would like to change my 1959 Cadillac single line brake system to a dual since the original brake booster is shot.  Any suggestions regarding available aftermarket products and any other information that would be helpful?  I plan to keep the drums at this time.  Thank you!

[marty55cdv]

https://www.performanceonline.com/1959-62-Cadillac-Power-Brake-Booster-Conversion-Kit-/.   

You will need to remove the line from the junction on the frame that goes to the rear brakes, run a new line from the new master to that line and join with a union. Plug the open port on the junction with a fitting and the other line to the new master.  Did this on my 59 Fleetwood and my 60 Flattop

[DylanFan52]

https://www.performanceonline.com/1959-62-Cadillac-Power-Brake-Booster-Conversion-Kit-/.   

You will need to remove the line from the junction on the frame that goes to the rear brakes, run a new line from the new master to that line and join with a union. Plug the open port on the junction with a fitting and the other line to the new master.  Did this on my 59 Fleetwood and my 60 Flattop

Thank you Marty55cdv for your response.  If fact I have been looking at that booster from Performance Online but just wanted a recommendation from a forum member that had experience in the changeover.  I appreciate your information!

jchadwell

[Gabe Davis]

Give this post I made several years ago a read:

http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=134898.msg295149#msg295149

In a nutshell, you can get a booster/master cylinder setup from a 1968 Cadillac with four wheel drums and bolt it in with minimal modification.

The front/rear split can happen at the distribution block on the frame right below the booster with a simple fitting.

Then a little plumbing and you are good to go. I've been running this setup for quiet a few years without issue.

[76eldo]

Thinking about converting my 60.
Thanks for the excellent write up.
A stock 68 setup will be less obvious to my eye.

[Gabe Davis]

Exactly; if you were not super familiar with these cars you'd be hard pressed to tell the '68 setup is not stock. It looks way less obvious than something from a hot rod shop.

Not needing any sort of proportioning valve makes things easier as well. The trick is to make sure the setup comes from a front/rear drum car as they did offer a front disc rear drum option.

Happy to help!

[fishnjim]

Without proportioning, to prevent lock up, the master has to match the wheel cylinders for volume.  Fronts are bigger.   This '68 is a good option if you can find them.
It's not possible on all years.   

[DylanFan52]

Thanks again to those who replied for your comments and suggestions.  I have some options plus the information to proceed. A "no brainer" to convert to dual lines!  I have been so concerned about getting the car running that I did not think much about the brakes.  Now that it is running I need to make sure it safely stops!

[David Greenburg]

The’68 setup works well and is easy and inexpensive, particularly if you need a new booster.  I had this on my former ‘59.  As noted above, someone who is familiar with these cars will notice that it is not stock, but it certainly looks “period correct.”  But there is no reason you can’t use your existing booster if it’s healthy ( or you get it rebuilt).  I have a dual m/c on the original booster on my ‘60 and it works great. I’m not sure what type of m/c is on it, but I’ll take a look and see if there is a part # or any identifying info.

[DylanFan52]

The’68 setup works well and is easy and inexpensive, particularly if you need a new booster.  I had this on my former ‘59.  As noted above, someone who is familiar with these cars will notice that it is not stock, but it certainly looks “period correct.”  But there is no reason you can’t use your existing booster if it’s healthy ( or you get it rebuilt).  I have a dual m/c on the original booster on my ‘60 and it works great. I’m not sure what type of m/c is on it, but I’ll take a look and see if there is a part # or any identifying info.

OK Thanks!  My booster is bad, that is one reason, besides safety, that I am going to the dual setup.  I just discovered the bad booster after I installed a new master cylinder (the first two new replacement MC's leaked.)  Just curious, did the 60 Cadillacs have dual lines?

[Big Fins]

The '68 booster and M/C worked great for me too. The lines on the '68 set up are outboard whereas the line on the '59 master came out of the end and went straight down if I remember correctly. You will have to elongate the holes in the firewall to accept the '68 booster and adjust the rod accordingly. Adjustments to the brake light switch and if equipped, the cruise canceling switch will need to be made too. Otherwise the brake pedal is a few inches higher than the factory set up. I don't recall the adapter sizes, but you will need to adapt the '59 lines to the '68 master. Any good parts house with a Dorman or Weatherhead cabinet will have the adapter fittings.

[David Greenburg]

I don’t see any markings or part numbers on the m/c, but here’s a picture of it in case anyone recognizes it. In response to the OP, 60’s did not have a dual system, which is why I wanted to convert mine.  The dual system wasn’t introduced until ‘62.  A ‘62 system might bolt in, but it would undoubtedly be much more expensive and harder to find than the ‘68 setup.

[DylanFan52]

I found and ordered a Delco Cadillac 1968 brake booster and a master cylinder for four drums.  After I ordered I realized that my1959 originally had a Bendix setup.  Will this be a problem installing the Delco booster and MC in my 59 that originally had the Bendix booster and MC.?  Since I am replacing both the booster and MC with the same brand for drums I am hoping this will not be an issue.  Thank you.

[Gabe Davis]

You are correct; since the whole booster/master cylinder setup is being changed out the manufacturer of the original components does not matter.

My '59 had a Bendix system originally. Both the booster and master cylinder were shot and I wanted to do the dual master cylinder setup anyway so the '68 option was perfect. The A1 Cardone re manufactured unit I installed came complete with the booster and master cylinder bolted together. I didn't have to piecemeal it. You will just have to adapt the lines and slightly enlarge the holes in the firewall and you will be good to go. I opted to shim the pedal bracket out by 1/4 inch. There seemed to be differing opinions about whether this was absolutely necessary but I have had no issues with it shimmed.

[DylanFan52]

Just a followup to my original question and posts.  I decided to go the 68 brake booster/master cylinder route to try to keep as authentic as possible and upgrade to dual brake lines.  No major problems.  Thanks again to all who responded with comments, suggestions, and especially the detailed instructions!