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1956 Cadillac intake manifold issue

Started by carguyblack, October 21, 2020, 08:00:36 PM

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carguyblack

I am working on a 1956 Cadillac for a friend and noticed something odd that isn't happening on my personal car of the same year. The intake manifold in the middle on both sides is just cooking hot and has burned the engine paint off of it. Mine doesn't do that. The car seems to run fine but it is just molten in those 2 areas pictured. Any idea why that's happening and is it a severe problem indicated by that?
Thanks for the input.
Chuck
Chuck Dykstra

1956 Sedan DeVille
1956 Coupe DeVille (2 sold)
1957 Oldsmobile 98 (sold)
1989 Bonneville SSE

The Tassie Devil(le)

Could possible be that the exhaust butterfly where the Exhaust Manifold joins the Engine Pipe is stuck in the closed condition, thus pushing all of the exhaust gas from that side, out and under the carby to the other side.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

Roger Zimmermann

On my cars, I have the same situation. Even with a good functioning heat riser, that exhaust passage under the carb is very hot, burning the paint. On your car, you may have gaskets sealing the intake manifold to the heads with are closing this passage. This is done mainly to reduce the vapor lock issue  as less heat is generated under the carb.
One way to check it: do you have the heat riser at the LH exhaust manifold? Compare also that heat riser with the car you are working on. The heat riser must move freely by hand with a cold engine.
1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101

Lexi

#3
That is actually par for the course as the hot exhaust eats the paint off. My engine paint burned off there within a month or so after rebuild and painting, (Hirsch paint used). Some guys plug the intake manifold holes to reduce the heat and lessen the chance of vapor lock.

On a side note, it looks like your throttle rod is installed backwards. I drove my car 8 years before I noticed it. On page 12-58 of the shop manual there is a diagram that shows the rod entering the throttle relay plate hole from the inside, (carb side) rather than the outside as in your case. You can remove and flip it as it is threaded at the other end at the fire wall. May need to re-check your idle and TV rod.  Clay/Lexi

cadman56

Lexi is correct.
Throttle rode should be on fender side of throttle plate/bracket with the big curve dropping down.
1956 Cadillac Coupe deVille (sold)
1956 Cadillac Convertible (sold)
1956 Cadillac Eldorado Seville (sold)
1967 Cadillac Eldorado (sold)
1968 Cadillac Convertible (Sold)
1991 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham dElegance
Larry Blanchard CLC #5820

carguyblack

Good catch Clay and Larry! My personal car is correct but this convertible was put on wrong by someone else. I was only doing the paint and body work so I never noticed. The only reason I asked about the manifolds is because when we checked under the hood after driving the car home from the shop to check for leaks, that's when I noticed the white hot manifolds and thought that was not quite kosher.
Chuck
Chuck Dykstra

1956 Sedan DeVille
1956 Coupe DeVille (2 sold)
1957 Oldsmobile 98 (sold)
1989 Bonneville SSE

Lexi

No problem Chuck. Does it really matter what side the throttle rod enters that plate's hole? Probably not, BUT as it appears that your return spring is of the stubby "fat boy" type, (with a short lead?), which looks like it is hooked on the inside of the rod; there is the danger of the spring making contact with the carburetor's secondary throttle linkage. My guess is that is why the shop manual shows it mounted from the other side which gives more room for the spring to clear things, if so connected. It is also easier to get at when mounted as per the shop manual. My spring and set up looked like yours until it got caught on the carb and I found myself speeding along without my foot on the accelerator. Not good. That is when I found out mine was connected wrong. Safer to move them which is what I did. Clay/Lexi

TomJudd

Fix or remove butterfly, or you will eventually destroy cylinders/valves on 3 4 5 6 cyls. I removed mine, I will never worry. You can not tell.

5390john

Might want to consider removing the exhaust butterfly valve and replacing the intake manifold gaskets with new gaskets that have the center exhaust port blocked. That way, no exhaust gases circulate through the intake manifold under the carb. Keeps the carb LOTS cooler, doesn't bake the paint off the intake manifold, and helps prevent vapor lock. Gaskets available from Olson's.
John Adams
1955 CDV "Marilyn"

"Panic Accordingly"

carguyblack

Thank you everyone for your sound advice. I continue to pass these all back to the owner of the car for his decision. Blocking the exhaust through the intake certainly sounds wise as excessive heat always seems to be the issue with this year car.
Chuck
Chuck Dykstra

1956 Sedan DeVille
1956 Coupe DeVille (2 sold)
1957 Oldsmobile 98 (sold)
1989 Bonneville SSE

dplotkin

Keep in mind that Cadillac designed its exhaust crossover for a reason and disabling it may lessen other troubles but it will effect running while stone cold. It it wasn't necessary to run as a Cadillac should it wasn't on the car.

Dan
56 Fleetwood Sixty Special (Starlight silver over Dawn Grey)
60 Buick Electra six window
60 Chrysler 300 F Coupe
61 Plymouth Savoy Ram Inducted 413 Superstock
62 Pontiac Bonneville Vista
63 Chevy Impala convertable
63 Ford Galaxie XL fastback
65 Corvette convertable 396
68 Chrysler New Yorker