Jetway 315 Trans Needs to Warm Up

[hawkfan]

My trans in my 56 series 62 needs to warm before it will shift smoothly.  It will wind out or stay in a low gear until I drive a few miles.  The fluid level is correct.  Once its warm it shifts normally.  Transmissions are a bit out of my league as far rebuilds go.   This past summer I replaced the trans pan gasket and used Dex III/Mercon CQ420 replacement fluid.  I did not notice any anomalies.
Does any have any ideas as to why this is happening? 

Thanks

[Roger Zimmermann]

I have two cars with that transmission ('56 & '57). They are acting more or less like yours; I would say about 2 miles or less (during summer time; I don't drive them during the cold season). When cold, the fluid is thicker than when warm; it makes a difference in the transmission's behavior.

[gkhashem]

I have a 1959 a Cadillac and an Oldsmobile, I too think the cars are a bit sluggish for the first mile or two. I never jack rabbit start them and let them ease into the first acceleration of the trip.

After that warm up period they both seem to shift fine. Mine does not stay in low gear but feels a bit tight for the lack of a better word. I am not sure how to describe it, but definitely want it wants to "warm up" some. I would say the car takes a bit more time to get going from the start up. I may be my babying it.

But then again I do not force it to lay rubber.

[fishnjim]

You're in the early days, so things don't act like we expect them today.   They didn't say what to expect about things like this from the factory.   I know my '58 acts weird since rebuild.  New and old parts mixed.   I'm trying a different fluid now.   If it's like the '58,  has a trans cooler and the engine coolant has to warm up before the trans fluid, so takes longer.   Takes a while for the torus to refill if it's been sitting - why the stick level goes up when not running.   
From experience, lots of old timers, let the cars idle and warm up to temp before driving.   People weren't in such a hurry as today.   Others I observed(type "A"s?), revved them a lot after starting, which is detrimental(wear) with low oil coverage from sitting and not recommended today. 
Would take some research to confirm this, just my educated guess, but "type A" is different now v then.   Even though they're "backward" compatible, ie, won't mess it up, doesn't mean they're the same.   {Even affected my power steering.}   Plus how much wear is on your trans?
Viscosity modifiers and base stocks are entirely different - same as with gasoline - today.   
It's rather expensive now, but may want to experiments with different brands ATF, if it's a "problem" and not a "perception".   They all go from the SAE requirements, but sourcing is different.   I heard some were using other types, like Ford fluid is closer to original A, but I don't go with internet hearsay and don't recommend.   Then there's the mystery oil, additive crowds...

[Jon S]

My 1958 has no problems whatsoever, but my Jeep had the same problem. Added this and it shifts beautifully cold or hot!

[Dave Shepherd]

Typically  these symptoms  are cause by hardened internal seals. They tend to seal better when the fluid  warms up.  Torus drain back is unavoidable.  When I worked for Cadillac way back , at times these symptoms  came about even after just 5 years.

[savemy67]

Hello Brian,

A paradox besets your transmission.  One might think that cold fluid, being more viscous, would aid in the application of the hydraulic components.  However, if the internal seals are cold, they might not seal regardless of how viscous the fluid, until the seals get warm enough to do their job.  Not to mention that the steels and frictions in the clutches, are also cold.

In general, metal conducts heat energy very well.  The metal in cars is always giving up its heat energy even if there is the tiniest difference between ambient temperature, and the heat energy in the car's metal.

All else being equal (correct fluid level, parking on level ground, no major leaks), do your transmission (and engine) a favor by letting it warm up for three minutes or so before putting it in gear.  If you do not notice a difference, a rebuild may be in the future - sooner if you continue to wind out first gear.

Respectfully submitted,

Christopher Winter

[fishnjim]

Glad to hear the serviceman speak up.   We need more of the old time religion.   Too much hearsay abounds.

[hawkfan]

Thanks to all the replies and suggestions!!!  My Caddy has 103,000 miles on it and I do not know the history of its maintenance.  I dont rev the engine or punch it.  I just let time and temp take its course till it shifts fine.  As I put it into storage for the winter Saturday, I will try the extended warm up next spring and see if things get better.  Last thing I want to happen is losing the trans.
Again, THANKS for the input!!!!

Thanks
Brian

[novetti]

Typically  these symptoms  are cause by hardened internal seals. They tend to seal better when the fluid  warms up.  Torus drain back is unavoidable.  When I worked for Cadillac way back , at times these symptoms  came about even after just 5 years.

Yes this is the most annoying aspect in my opinion, if I don't start up my old vehicles with closer frequency (lets say every 2 wks), longer periods result in substantial drain back and fluid loss.

I bought those huge drip trays to minimize the mess in my garage.

[hawkfan]

Same here!  I too have two large drip pans under my car too!