1969 Deville: Installing Harmonic Balancer Damper Hub

[69Deville]

I'm wrapping up a timing chain replacement and am unsure if I have the damper hub pressed on all of the way. If I reach into the front of the engine, there is still a little play on between the hub and the oil slinger. Should the hub sandwich the slinger against the sprocket? I can line the pulleys up now, but am concerned that the slinger will rattle.

Thanks!

[Big Fins]

It must be seated all the way to be proper. What did you use to 'press' the hub on?

That rattle or looseness may cause premature wear on the crank.

[69Deville]

I first used a loaner installer from an auto parts store. The shop manual states not to crank down too hard on it or it will damage the tool. From there, I used a bolt with a large washer and nut to press it on further. I can continue to press it until it seats against the slinger, I just was getting nervous as I was using quite a bit of force.

[DeVille68]

Hello,

If I remember correctly on my rebuild of my 472 the crank is about 1/4'' deeper than the end of the pulley. See the picture attached.
Best regards,
Nicolas

[Big Fins]

I first used a loaner installer from an auto parts store. The shop manual states not to crank down too hard on it or it will damage the tool. From there, I used a bolt with a large washer and nut to press it on further. I can continue to press it until it seats against the slinger, I just was getting nervous as I was using quite a bit of force.

I wanted to mention the 9/16" bolt with nut and washers, but I deleted the picture I have of it and don't recall the thread pitch. Put that bolt into the crank snout as deep as it will go, it won't go that far and just snug it up. Then use the nut up against the washers that should have some sort of lube on them to stop any binding. Then run the nut down until the hub seats. It's a tight fit, but it does go all the way. You'll 'feel' it when it seats. Hopefully, you have the Woodruff key in the slot properly. I'm pretty sure if you didn't, the hub wouldn't have gone on as far as it has.

[DeVille68]

its' 9/16-18 (UNF)
I bought a long one (2'') and a short one. The first to press the hub on, the second to keep in the crank to turn it easily. Put lube on the thread and also on the crank and hub.

Best regards,
Nicolas

[69Deville]

Thank you all.

I finished pressing it on today and am putting it all back together.

I appreciate all of the advice and tips.

[TJ Hopland]

Don't forget that if you are going to set up dizzy on #1 you want both the cam and crank timing marks at 12 o clock.    If you left them at 12 and 6 then set it up for #4.    Also remember #1 is on the right side of the engine which is different than most other American engines of the era. 

And another thing remember the 7/16 head bolts in the water pump only thread into the 'tin' timing cover and their torque spec is in inch pounds,  not Ft like the rest on that chart in the manual. 

[69Deville]

Don't forget that if you are going to set up dizzy on #1 you want both the cam and crank timing marks at 12 o clock.    If you left them at 12 and 6 then set it up for #4.    Also remember #1 is on the right side of the engine which is different than most other American engines of the era. 

And another thing remember the 7/16 head bolts in the water pump only thread into the 'tin' timing cover and their torque spec is in inch pounds,  not Ft like the rest on that chart in the manual.

Thank you for the reminders TJ. Those water pump bolts are nerve wracking.

[69Deville]

Thank you to everyone here for your help. Everything is buttoned back up and after a few tries with the distributor (I always need a few tries  ) , it fired right up and sounds great! I'll dial in the carb and timing this weekend and we should be good to go.