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1933 carburetor issues

Started by dmact, March 02, 2021, 01:11:53 PM

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dmact

D. Thompson 1933 355c town sedan
In 2019 I removed and went through the carburetor. I set the float according to the manual, put it all back together and it ran just perfectly. Drove it several miles before parking to get the interior restored. In early 2020 took it out of the garage planning a short drive. After a few minutes it died, and has not run properly since. Installed a new float, making sure it does not touch the bowl, sealed it with epoxy, and now, it starts and idles and you can 'rev' it up but has no power. I've adjusted the flapper screw, tried it with small amount of choke. Is this Rube Goldberg at work or am I missing something simple? Otherwise, I love the car, the quality build is amazing.

Cadman-iac

I'm not familiar with your year and model of car,  but carburetors are very similar regardless.
What you probably have had happen is something has gotten into the small passages in the bowl or, base of the carburetor, restricting the flow of fuel.
If it were mine, I would first start with blowing out the passages with either air or carb cleaner. I prefer the carb cleaner spray as you can tell when it's getting through. Not so much with the air.
If the car has sat for a year without having ran, then the chances of the fuel breaking down or corroding, or plugging something is higher than if you ran it once a month or more.
Just a thought. I hope it helps.

Rick
CLC# 32373
1956 Coupe Deville A/C car "Norma Jean"

dmact

Thanks Rick, I have not cleaned out everything yet
Duncan

JLB

My specific question is if I should be concerned about this engine being worn out. The odometer shows 88,000 miles.
I am new to these engines, yet familiar with automotive engines.
If you know these engines, and I think many of you do, please review as I need your advice.

Compression test using traditional old style gauge, not a leak down or a resistance type test. Cranking the engine using a 6 volt system:

To simplify I am not listing all 16 cylinders, just the high and low readings:
Cold Engine:
High #9 - 105 lbs
Low #7 - 80 lbs

Warm Engine:
High #9 - 115 lbs
Low #6 - 95

Thanks in Advance,
Jim LeBlanc (JLB)
1940 Series 90 Limo
Saginaw, Michigan
Home of GM Foundry and Steering Gear Factories


Jim LeBlanc
jim_leblanc@yahoo.com
1940 V16 Town Car
CLC Member #33340