1972 Eldorado Passenger side Axle

[Loveofclassics78]

Good afternoon!   I have to replace my passenger side axle.  I've already replaced it before, so there is no damper.  At the time I replaced it, I had everything on that side broken down (Control Arm, Spindle)..so it was easy to replace the axle.  What's the best way to remove the axle with taking everything back loose?  Can I just remove the 6 bolts to the hub and the axle nut and swing the axle down towards the front of the car?

Thanks,
Don

[TJ Hopland]

I have been told that if you are really determined you can find a way to finagle one of the sides out without taking anything apart but I don't remember which side and I'm pretty sure I tried a long time ago and was not successful.   Even if you get the old one out you have to get the new one in which will be stiffer and without damaging the boots.

I have always lightly supported the lower control arm with a jack and popped the upper ball joint loose.  Don't know if its just been luck or what but I have never really had trouble getting them to pop.   Loosen the nut and stick a decent sized pry bar between the axle and nut to put a bunch of pressure on it then smack the side of the knuckle with a big hammer and it should pop.

Note that if you are getting a new production replacement unit where the inner and outer boots basically look the same that the 6 flange holes are darn near the same size as the stock washers.   The new flange is also thinner than the originals so the bolts are too long.   Passenger side the extra length doesn't hit anything but you may run out of threads before you reach the proper torque.   Drivers side they will hit the final drive case.

I had a thread here last summer I think where I machined some spacers and I believe some others found a motorcycle part that worked well.   I will try and look for that thread or maybe someone else can find it and link to it.   Quality seems fine so far on those new ones its just those slight fit issues.   I have had one on for several years now.   

If you want to avoid all that just get a rebuilt one.   On the rebuilds just check the condition of the splines and the threads.   I have had them where the spines or threads are so dinged up you can't actually install them.   Also check the condition of the boots.   I and others have got them that have been on the shelf a very long time so the boots are either starting to crack just in the box or won't last long on the car.   The original inner I don't think has been made for quite a while so any existing stock has been on the shelf a while. 

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

To remove the Right Axle, one needs to follow the Shop Manual.

This basically says to undo the bottom nut on the Shock Absorber, and slide the Shocker not all the way off the mount.   Remove the Starter Motor, Undo the 6 CV (Tripot) Joint bolts, and the 1 1/2" axle nut, and then slip the Tripot Joint rearwards, clear of the inner flange, and rearwards further, and then slip the outer shaft clear of the Hub, and it will come out.

I have done this a few times.

Bruce.

[Loveofclassics78]

Thank you all!
Bruce, I saw those instructions in my shop manual.  I didn't see anything about removing the starter motor. 
So that gave you the clearance you needed?  Curious, how did loosening the shock help?

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Loosening the shock allows just enough extra room to swing it out of the way.   As you will find out, it doesn't need much.   But, don't take the shock right off.

Bruce.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

I just refreshed my memory be reading the Manual, and no, The Starter doesn't have to come out, so maybe I was removing it when I removed the engine, and had to disconnect the 6 flange bolts to remove the inner drive shaft.

Sorry for the confusion.

Maybe it is necessary to remove the inner drive shaft needs removing so that the main axle can be pulled inwards to clear the hub spline.

But, you do have to relocate the Shocker to allow clearance to remove the inner drive shaft.

I have had the engines and transmissions out of a '71 and my '72 many times, so memory gets a bit overloaded.

Bruce.

[Loveofclassics78]

I have been told that if you are really determined you can find a way to finagle one of the sides out without taking anything apart but I don't remember which side and I'm pretty sure I tried a long time ago and was not successful.   Even if you get the old one out you have to get the new one in which will be stiffer and without damaging the boots.

I have always lightly supported the lower control arm with a jack and popped the upper ball joint loose.  Don't know if its just been luck or what but I have never really had trouble getting them to pop.   Loosen the nut and stick a decent sized pry bar between the axle and nut to put a bunch of pressure on it then smack the side of the knuckle with a big hammer and it should pop.

Note that if you are getting a new production replacement unit where the inner and outer boots basically look the same that the 6 flange holes are darn near the same size as the stock washers.   The new flange is also thinner than the originals so the bolts are too long.   Passenger side the extra length doesn't hit anything but you may run out of threads before you reach the proper torque.   Drivers side they will hit the final drive case.

I had a thread here last summer I think where I machined some spacers and I believe some others found a motorcycle part that worked well.   I will try and look for that thread or maybe someone else can find it and link to it.   Quality seems fine so far on those new ones its just those slight fit issues.   I have had one on for several years now.   

If you want to avoid all that just get a rebuilt one.   On the rebuilds just check the condition of the splines and the threads.   I have had them where the spines or threads are so dinged up you can't actually install them.   Also check the condition of the boots.   I and others have got them that have been on the shelf a very long time so the boots are either starting to crack just in the box or won't last long on the car.   The original inner I don't think has been made for quite a while so any existing stock has been on the shelf a while. 

TJ, did you also release the tie rod end, in order to pivot the hub and remove the splines?

[TJ Hopland]

I think I have done it both ways.   If you got both front wheels off the ground I think you can just turn the wheels to get enough clearance.  If you just have the one wheel up then I think that is where popping the tie rod helps.