'65 distributor shaft stuck in engine

[bctexas]

Hi all.  My oscilloscope shows a variation in timing between cylinders in my '65, and I want to mount the distributor in the distributor machine (I collect old test gear) to figure out the issue.  But the distributor won't come out.  It isn't the body that is stuck, its the shaft.  The body rotates easily, and has a little bit of play in and out.  However, the shaft is held fast somehow and it is stopping the body from pulling out.  A few months ago I replaced the fuel pump, and I could see shiny new parts inside the engine which tells me someone before me changed the timing chain.  I've never had one of these engines apart so while I understand the basics, I am not familiar with this specific design.  Anyone have an idea what might be going on?  I don't want to go all Lou Farigno on it and start prying - I don't need it out that bad and sure don't want to end up having to pull the front cover because I broke something.

Thanks in advance! 

[bcroe]

That has happened to me, the distributor gear is stuck on
the shaft that turns the oil pump.  Pull really hard and the
aluminum distributor will be broken.  As I recall, I moved the
dist body up and down to bang (not TOO hard) on the rotating
parts, and after uncounted bangs, it finally came out intact. 

In at least one case the drive shaft was not stuck in the oil
pump, but a push on retaining ring kept the shaft in the engine.
For me the shaft came out, the ring stayed in the engine. 
good luck, Bruce Roe

[Lexi]

Same problem happened to my Dad's '72 Oldsmobile Cutlass back in the day. The mechanic sprayed the distributor with what I think was a C02 fire extinguisher. The extreme cold must have shocked what was stuck and it then came out. Up to then, nothing worked. Turns out the entire unit needed replacing, (engine had a flat spot), and when removed the distributor was found to not spin freely, (bearing corroded). Never use a C02 fire extinguisher in a confined space (they displace oxygen), and you can get frostbite from the suppressant when in contact with skin. Also, would not spray on a hot engine. It could crack a block due to the extreme temperature differential if applied in that manner. On the plus side, I don't think they leave a residue. Passed on for what its worth. Clay/Lexi

[bctexas]

Hi Bruce, thanks for the insight.  In the spirit of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" I think I will let sleeping distributors lie.

Hi Lexi!  Interesting trick!  If the aluminum distributor housing was stuck in the block I might give that a try.  Interesting idea that might come in handy in other situations too...

Happy Motoring!

[fishnjim]

Since you've removed the hold down(completely) and the top section is loose/turning, the generally excepted method is to connect a slide hammer to the main/drive shaft and pull it that way.   
There's really not anything holding it so the centering bearing surfaces must be seized/rusted.  It should break loose, since it's operating normally.  Don't pry on the aluminum parts.   If something was broke in there and jammed, I doubt it would run very good.
But if it don't hurt, nothing wrong with it as it is.   Wait til rebuild time.   I suspect this motor sat at some point to cause this.
You could get a spare dist and put on your machine and play with it.   Then you'll be ready.   It's one of those, "I wish I had one" things that never gets much use unless you're a engine shop or into racing.   Electronics pretty much killed that golden mechanical goose.   I always look at them excitedly at auctions and then use my better sense.when it comes to the money part.

[bctexas]

Hi Jim!  I was able to pick up some data about the car's history from the State of Oklahoma.  There is a record of a registration in 1988 with the odometer reading 88,000 miles.  It had just over 91,000 when I got the car two years ago.  So it indeed spent some time sleeping.  I agree it makes the most sense to leave the distributor in place until and unless it presents a real issue.

Happy Motoring!