Paint restoration?

[Sh71382]

Thanks for everyone's advice on my windshield, my next question is for those that are experienced and knowledgeable about auto detailing. The  three photos I've included show the current state of the paint on my car, while it is overall in good shape, and looks fairly shiny still, it shows it's age and I'm wondering what would be suggested to bring back as much luster and shine as I can without breaking my bank account. Would one suggest just normal wax and polish, using compound and polish, or the labor intensive wet sand and polish? This is not the original paint or color, but in a couple of years I do want to return the car to its original brilliant Olympic White color, but until then I want the car to look her best even in her imperfect state. Advice and thoughts are very welcome and appreciated! Thanks!

[GBrown #8092]

I have had really good luck with the Mequiar's paint correction system and a Porter Cable DA on base coat/clear coat cars.

https://www.meguiars.com/professional/products/meguiars-da-microfiber-correction-system-5-starter-kit-dmckit5-kit

It pops up for sale for $60 to $70

It doesn't work quite as well on older lacquer paint, but it'll look better. Biggest advantage is it easy to use and your less likely to burn through the paint.   BTW, teh place that sold it to me now suggests using a bigger Makita DA for better results..


Glenn

[Abe Lugo]

A cheap and easy one is to wash it with a clay bar.  I have the Mequair's version if you use with the color it clean up some spots of stuff that has been on the paint for years.  I have used it to remove water spots too.   

[fishnjim]

Not knowing what paint and how much is on there, how long it's been on there, and with the amount of chipping and paint loss, you're talking more work than it probably deserves for 3 years til a paint job.   I didn't see any cracking or delam, mostly hazing and paint loss.   Pretty much my standard spiel:
Always best to clean the paint first before you decide what to do. 
Wash it, then give it a scrub with pre-wax cleaner, aka "polish" to get it all to the same level of paint( remove oversprays, spots, etc.) and then go from there.  Minimum is a good wax after that.
You can/should touch up all those chips, etc to prevent rust and not attract the eye so much before any paint correction.  They'll show more once the wax dries in them.   Clean with prepsol, fill 'em in, then cut them back, when dry, to flush(repeat if needed) and compound out.   Paints already flat, so wet sand is not called for.  Sometimes, you have to spray an area if it's too bad to spot.   You may have to level some small places, with 1500-3000 but "go down" with compound first.  Always start and stay least aggressive.   It might rub clear and it might not.  You can test in spots but may have to change tactics as you proceed and things change. 
To get that mile deep black is always best to use a soft wax that buffs out.   There's too many products these days to recommend but they go under jewel, final finish, etc.   But they don't last as long.   Depending on the brands may be several products to use.   I personally don't like clay.   Adds an unneccessary step in my think.   I stay away from glazes unless you're going to a show.   They haze out in a few days but a good trick for short term.
A good VS orbital machine with the foam pads is worth it's weight on these giants.  It's all technique.   Lots of sharp edges, big "wheels" will burn edges.

ps: If you don't want to or know how, take to a good detail shop.   

[scotth3886]

Not knowing what paint and how much is on there, how long it's been on there, and with the amount of chipping and paint loss, you're talking more work than it probably deserves for 3 years til a paint job.   I didn't see any cracking or delam, mostly hazing and paint loss.   Pretty much my standard spiel:
Always best to clean the paint first before you decide what to do. 
Wash it, then give it a scrub with pre-wax cleaner, aka "polish" to get it all to the same level of paint( remove oversprays, spots, etc.) and then go from there.  Minimum is a good wax after that.
You can/should touch up all those chips, etc to prevent rust and not attract the eye so much before any paint correction.  They'll show more once the wax dries in them.   Clean with prepsol, fill 'em in, then cut them back, when dry, to flush(repeat if needed) and compound out.   Paints already flat, so wet sand is not called for.  Sometimes, you have to spray an area if it's too bad to spot.   You may have to level some small places, with 1500-3000 but "go down" with compound first.  Always start and stay least aggressive.   It might rub clear and it might not.  You can test in spots but may have to change tactics as you proceed and things change. 
To get that mile deep black is always best to use a soft wax that buffs out.   There's too many products these days to recommend but they go under jewel, final finish, etc.   But they don't last as long.   Depending on the brands may be several products to use.   I personally don't like clay.   Adds an unneccessary step in my think.   I stay away from glazes unless you're going to a show.   They haze out in a few days but a good trick for short term.
A good VS orbital machine with the foam pads is worth it's weight on these giants.  It's all technique.   Lots of sharp edges, big "wheels" will burn edges.

ps: If you don't want to or know how, take to a good detail shop.

You can still get Prepsol ?   I haven't seen that stuff for decades.  I used plenty of it as a loud mouth, snot faced punk working in a body shop about 60 years ago.  Great stuff.