News:

Due to a technical issue, some recently uploaded pictures have been lost. We are investigating why this happened but the issue has been resolved so that future uploads should be safe.  You can also Modify your post (MORE...) and re-upload the pictures in your post.

Main Menu

Clutch,flywheel and pressure plate advice

Started by B Readling CLC#25871, May 28, 2021, 10:49:56 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

B Readling CLC#25871

I need to replace the clutch,flywheel and pressure plate in a '37 LaSalle the engine is not the original. It is a346 cu.in. Military engine. All of the above listed items plus the throw out bearing have been replaced with all parts supplied by a "northwest auto supply house". This was done on their advice after the flywheel was according to them no good ,it was cut too thin when resurfacing by another party. All of this was done to eliminate a terrible vibration.
  The vibration although not as sever now is still unsatisfactory . The "bad flywheel" and other parts sent to the auto parts store were not returned (to save shipping charges).
Does anyone have experience or advice on locating the replacement parts to win this battle? Too much time, effort and money has been invested too walk away from this problem. Although I have let it rest for far too long because I was too flustered and spent down to to continue in the past. Hope someone can give me some guidance.
Brady - CLC#25871

Ohjai

Hello Brady, I feel for you.  I am going through this on my 38 60S.  Just received a call from the clutch rebuilder that the clutch is ready, I will go pick it up Tuesday.
I purchased the car in February knowing it had engine vibration.  In the process of attempting to balance the flywheel/clutch assembly by adding washers, I discovered one bolt too long, and two of the holes stripped out.  Once I get the clutch back I will attempt to balance it again.


Now for your car, I would determine how much vibration you now have as a base line. then remove the six bolts from the clutch pressure plate and rotate it 120 degrees, check for vibration, continue to do this at the third location and choose the location that gives you the least vibration.  Then remove one bolt, add a washer, and check the vibration, continue this for all six bolts until you find the one that gives you the least vibration.  This procedure is in the manual.


If I can't remove the vibration by this method, then I will pull the engine and take it to a shop that balances engines.


I hope this helps you a bit, and know that I am going a similar problem.


Jim
'38 Cadillac Series 60 S
'41 Cadillac Series 60 S
2017 Cadillac CT6
'62 Buick Skyhawk Conv
'49 Bentley MK-VI  Sold
'53 Bentley R-Type  Sold
'66 Ford Thunderbird
'64 Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud III
'75 Rolls-Royce Silver Shad Sold
'78 Rolls-Royce Silver Shad II
'80 Rolls-Royce Silver Wraith II  Sold
'81 Rolls-Royce Camargue  Sold
'88 Rolls-Royce Corniche II
'89 Rolls-Royce Silver Spur
2020 Ford Escape

harry s

First thing I would point out is the '37 flywheel is different (one year only) and won't work on the later engines. Your engine being a military one I would suggest taking the old parts out and matching to them. I have a flywheel, pressure plate and disc from a '41 that may work. The flywheel would need refacing along with rebuild on the pressure plate and relining the disc.    Harry
Harry Scott 4195
1941 6733
1948 6267X
2011 DTS Platinum

fishnjim

I'd find out what year that motor is, get the numbers, etc.   Then track the correct parts down.  Might be a mismatch with the gear case or something else/driveline caused.   I'd check the run out on the crankshaft with the clutch out and rear main seal for leaks.  Oil on the clutch causes chatter. ie, other sources of vibration.
It might be one of those, the parts don't exist new and have to be rebuilt/refurbed/modified/made and work quality issues.    I'm not a pre-war-ee for this and other reasons, like I don't do wood body work either.  We referred to them as "orange crates" in our boomer youth.

I'd take it to someone, like a trans/mechanic/resto shop/guy, if vibration was causing me to pull my hair out/avoid the job.   Extra eyes with more tools available sometimes help.   If they mess it up, you have someone to blame and yell at!   
ps: I personally wouldn't buy a car in this condition, but that's a different issue.   Just say "NO" next time.   Sometimes we buy other people's troubles thinking we can do more than we can because we don't have all the facts.  "oh, just needs a clutch job".   Problem minimization when desire overcomes reason.   That's why complete documentation is SOOO important in buying.   What's been done, what parts were used, where from, etc. if been modified.

Ohjai

Thanks Harry and Jim.  The engine number is 6271309. 
Harry are the flywheel/clutch assemblies downward compatible?  Are 41 systems compatible with the 38?
Jim I purchased this car knowing it was going to need work, to me the risk is well worth the difference in purchase price.  Regarding FULL documentation, I think that would be nearly impossible to find an 80 year old car with every maintenance record.
I am 82, and still have most of my hair, this job is not bothering me to much yet.  I am trying to resolve an issue myself without pulling the engine.  I know if I pull the engine, take it to an engine machine shop the vibration will be gone.  I just want to do it myself.


Jim


'38 Cadillac Series 60 S
'41 Cadillac Series 60 S
2017 Cadillac CT6
'62 Buick Skyhawk Conv
'49 Bentley MK-VI  Sold
'53 Bentley R-Type  Sold
'66 Ford Thunderbird
'64 Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud III
'75 Rolls-Royce Silver Shad Sold
'78 Rolls-Royce Silver Shad II
'80 Rolls-Royce Silver Wraith II  Sold
'81 Rolls-Royce Camargue  Sold
'88 Rolls-Royce Corniche II
'89 Rolls-Royce Silver Spur
2020 Ford Escape