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Ringing bell noise

Started by Locosiete, August 29, 2021, 01:01:32 PM

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Locosiete

I bought my 1978 De Ville at the beginning of 2021 and have slowly been repairing it. Still undecided what i want to do With it but will burn that bridge as i go  ;D

I have been trying to figure where to start with troubleshooting this and think i may have narrowed it down to the u-joints.

My issue is when at a full stop when i let off the brake i hear what sounds like a bell being rung. It's a sharp ring like you hit a bell and resonates like a bell. It's loud enough to hear but not so loud you would notice if your not looking for it. Once i pick up speed i cannot hear it but i assume that is due to road noise and or the exhaust. From what i can hear it doesn't get louder with speed.

I don't know this car's history only what i can see from prior owners receipts and what i can see with my eyes. For most part car is solid but definitely shows it's age and you can see it sat for some time in it's life. Odometer shows around 90k.
Majority of this car is still factory parts so I'm willing to bet the U-joints are original and dried out.
I initially thought maybe a rear drum was sticking but i am not sure.

I am not a mechanic or claim to be one but i am no stranger to turning wrenches either. Any thoughts someone can share will be appreciated. Thank you for your time.
Here's my 2 cents on a 3 cent conversion.

fishnjim

From the "sound of things" I'd be pulling the rear brake drums and doing some inspecting.   With that many miles, expect much wear everywhere.

Locosiete

Already know i need to to replace front and rear brakes. Hopefully it's just that simple.
Here's my 2 cents on a 3 cent conversion.

savemy67

Hello Locosiete,

The only time any car I owned made a sound just like a bell was when the car had a cracked flex plate.

If the sound is resonating. whatever is making the sound is free to vibrate continuously.  This would probably rule out a brake drum, which would stop vibrating as soon as the brakes were applied.  A driveshaft can also resonate like a bell, but this is usually due to something hitting the drive shaft (like a muffler clamp), not from U-joints.

You may want to put the car on a lift, and check that no components are hitting one another.  Also, use a hammer to tap several components to see if you can duplicate the exact sound.  That may point out which component is making the sound.

Respectfully submitted,

Christopher Winter
Christopher Winter
1967 Sedan DeVille hardtop

Locosiete

Well cross my fingers it's not the flex plate. I don't have a lift so i have to get creative sometimes lol. If it is the flex plate, or worse, that may make my decision for me on what i do with the vehicle. But we shall see how things unfold as the weeks pass and i can get more time to work on it.
Here's my 2 cents on a 3 cent conversion.

Cape Cod Fleetwood

When my flexplate went it was a ticking sound. Its a $40 part and a good mech can replace it in a couple
of hours, its not a death sentence.
There are 2 kinds of cars in the world, Cadillac and everything else....

The Present -1970 Fleetwood Brougham

The Past -
1996 Deville Concours
1987 Sedan De Ville "Commonwealth Edition"
1981 Coupe De Ville (8-6-4)
1976 Sedan De Ville
1975 Sedan De Ville

The Daily Driver and work slave -
2008 GMC Acadia SLT *options/all

Locosiete

Quote from: Cape Cod Fleetwood on August 29, 2021, 11:57:32 PM
When my flexplate went it was a ticking sound. Its a $40 part and a good mech can replace it in a couple
of hours, its not a death sentence.

It's not that i think it is going to cost a fortune but would probably mean there are other underlying issues that were never addressed. At that point will just make Mechanically sound and just leave it as is and just cruise it the way it sits vs repainting upholstery etc. As is i am currently undoing the jimmy rigging prior owner did. Have to chase down where connection from switch to headlights is bad. They spliced in a wire and tapped it directly at headlights. Wire was kinked and rubbing and i am surprised it didn't melt something. They also used plumber's  putty to keep mirror in place since wire broke rather then fixing or replacing.

On a side note noticed this too but after turning off car it sounds like water is draining for about 5 seconds. Car doesn't leak or smoke and coolent level hasn't ever changed but best i can figure is heater core drains after running.

This is the wire they used to directly wire headlights. There is cracks all over it.

Here's my 2 cents on a 3 cent conversion.

TJ Hopland

Does the AC compressor run?  That would be the most common water draining sound which is just the system equalizing. 

I have seen the headlight issue on those too and I can't remember where it turned out to be but I know it was before the switch.     IF you have the headlight issue I assume the heat/ac blower is either not working or has been bypassed too?  That was more common than headlight issues and was due to the relay socket melting. 
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

35-709

What you might be hearing is oil draining back into the sump from the top end when you shut it down.  That is something you would probably only hear when the hood is open when you shut the engine down.
1935 Cadillac Sedan resto-mod "Big Red"
1973 Cadillac Caribou - Sold - but still in the family
1950 Jaguar Mark V Saloon resto-mod - Sold
1942 Cadillac 6269 - Sold
1968 Pontiac Bonneville Convertible - Sold
1950 Packard 2dr. Club Sedan
1935 Glenn Pray - Auburn Boattail Speedster, Gen. 2

Locosiete

#9
Haven't checked yet to see if ac pump cycles or not. System is always on so regardless which setting off, bi level or defrost the system always kicks on. It's not a constant fan but comes on depending what temp it's set to. Cold air is just outside temp.

Popped dash cover off and only thing i have seen bypassed or messed with was the headlights. They tapped into the output of the headlight switch. When I replaced the wiper switch i looked behind dash to see if any random wires had been spliced and didn't see anything else messed with.

When I first bought it all 4 headlights had either a small hole in them or half full of water. One didn't even have any holes and was still half full of water. From the looks they were the original headlights lol.

When i drove it yesterday around block didn't hear the ringing this time which i thought was odd but when i turned it sharp right around corner, maybe 5 mph, heard it a little ringing but with several dings like something was tapping.

So now i am curious if maybe rear end is low on diff fluid and that maybe the ringing. Things i know i need to do, just have to find the time, are change transmission pan gasket and rear diff cover gasket. Both are leaking so crossing my fingers that solves the problem.

Had the bushings on front end replaced couple months ago since they were the original ones and rotted out so don't think that was the cause for sound when turning. Had a mechanic look it over when he did the bushings and said on lift nothing looked bent or cracked.

As far as draining noise it can be heard with hood closed. First time i heard it thought i lost a radiator hose but can't find any leaks aside from transmission and that is a slow drip.
Here's my 2 cents on a 3 cent conversion.

35-709

#10
Water in the headlights, 1/2 full??  Are you very sure this is not a flood car?  Water in the headlights should never happen under normal circumstances, nor should there be small holes, they are sealed units.  With what little I know about your car from what you have written, I am seeing a big red flag.
Even if it was a flood car, I don't see how the headlights could have water in them.
1935 Cadillac Sedan resto-mod "Big Red"
1973 Cadillac Caribou - Sold - but still in the family
1950 Jaguar Mark V Saloon resto-mod - Sold
1942 Cadillac 6269 - Sold
1968 Pontiac Bonneville Convertible - Sold
1950 Packard 2dr. Club Sedan
1935 Glenn Pray - Auburn Boattail Speedster, Gen. 2

Locosiete

Like i said car's history is unknown. Flood is a possibility but if it was it was never reported. Looking under dash no signs of water damage. It definitely sat for a long time at some point in it's life.
Here's my 2 cents on a 3 cent conversion.

TJ Hopland

I have had water in headlights before and if they are halogens you can have a hole in the outside and still have the bulb not burn out till said water sloshes around and hits the hot bulb but if you drive in the rain more than you drive at night could go on for a long time.
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

Locosiete

#13
Seen various cars that had flood damage and if this one did they did an excellent job of hiding it and then making it look old. Picasso would be proud if it lol.

Aside from some surface rust car is pretty solid.
Here's my 2 cents on a 3 cent conversion.

Cape Cod Fleetwood

Quote from: Locosiete on August 30, 2021, 11:22:57 PM
Seen various cars that had flood damage and if this one did they did an excellent job of hiding it and then making it look old. Picasso would be proud if it lol.

Aside from some surface rust car is pretty solid.

If that car flooded you'd see it/smell it in the carpets and interior. Pull some carpet back and look. Your brake lines, EB cables would all be rusting. Since you're going to re-seal the rear diff (get the right fluid) may as well reseal the front where the drive shaft connects at the same time. And since the drive shaft is coming off consider getting that rebalanced as long as its off. Just had that done to The Ark a few months ago, what a difference. May as well replace the transmission mount too, you're right there, assuming your year still uses one. I changed the transmission pan to one that hold an extra 3 quarts and has fins under it allegedly to aid in tranny fluid cooling. Got it at Summit Racing. Hey the pan is coming off anyway for the gasket (solid cork, right?) may as well put on a better pan.
There are 2 kinds of cars in the world, Cadillac and everything else....

The Present -1970 Fleetwood Brougham

The Past -
1996 Deville Concours
1987 Sedan De Ville "Commonwealth Edition"
1981 Coupe De Ville (8-6-4)
1976 Sedan De Ville
1975 Sedan De Ville

The Daily Driver and work slave -
2008 GMC Acadia SLT *options/all

Locosiete

Good advice. Not sure i would want to go with large pan only because i may lower it in future and not sure i want tranny pan sitting lower. But definitely good advice
Here's my 2 cents on a 3 cent conversion.

Cape Cod Fleetwood

Quote from: Locosiete on August 31, 2021, 01:12:28 AM
Good advice. Not sure i would want to go with large pan only because i may lower it in future and not sure i want tranny pan sitting lower. But definitely good advice

If you're going to bag the car, BAG the idea of a larger pan! LOL!
There are 2 kinds of cars in the world, Cadillac and everything else....

The Present -1970 Fleetwood Brougham

The Past -
1996 Deville Concours
1987 Sedan De Ville "Commonwealth Edition"
1981 Coupe De Ville (8-6-4)
1976 Sedan De Ville
1975 Sedan De Ville

The Daily Driver and work slave -
2008 GMC Acadia SLT *options/all

Locosiete

OK this car is just messing with me. So today finally had some time so decided to replace transmission gasket. Went with a silicone gasket with solid core. Thicker then standard gasket. Replacement went pretty straightforward. Transmission filter looked fairly new and had a rubber gasket that looked fine. No buildup on pan or noticeable warps. But already had it apart and parts were bought so replaced filter oring on pickup tube and gasket. Torqued down to spec and  seemed ok... until i went to put in fluid. I put in 6 quarts and dip stick still was not showing. Pretty sure now the leak is coming from the torque converter. Will know for sure if there is a puddle again under it in a couple days. But when starting and putting in gear didn't hear ring so now i wonder was sound due to low fluid.
Here's my 2 cents on a 3 cent conversion.

James Landi

Have owned Cadillac for my entire "driving life." (I'm 75)  Have had experience with these older models that appear to have "curative powers."  Sometimes simply driving them carefully (after all they're old), and keeping your "ear to the ground," problems can disappear.   All this said, please make certain to put safety first---brake lines and associated parts, tires, and steering components.... all these absolutely require inspection and attention.  Happy day,  James

savemy67

Hello Locosiete,

Your post did not say if you checked the fluid with the engine running.

The shop manual should indicate how much fluid the car requires after a fluid/filter change, and how much fluid is needed if the transmission is completely empty (including the torque converter).

When the engine is stopped, the fluid pump in the transmission also stops.  Fluid is no longer pumped through the transmission, including the torque converter.  The torque converter can partially drain back into the pan, giving a false reading on the dipstick when the engine is not running.

In your case, if the engine was running when you added the fluid, and six quarts did not show up on the dipstick, then your torque converter may have been empty, and the sound could have been the result of low fluid, or more likely, the low fluid or empty torque converter caused metal to metal contact inside the torque converter, which made the ringing sound.

Since the addition of fluid stopped the sound (or stopped the sound from being heard), you may want to review the fluid checking procedure in the shop manual, and follow it to the letter.  Adjust the fluid level accordingly, and see how the car drives and shifts.

If, in a few days, you have a puddle of transmission fluid under the front of the transmission, and you suspect a leaky torque converter, you may have to remove the torque converter, and have it pressure tested.  However, don't overlook the fact that the transmission may be too full, which goes back to following the fluid check procedure in the shop manual to the letter.

Respectfully submitted,

Christopher Winter
Christopher Winter
1967 Sedan DeVille hardtop