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I'm replacing my big battery in my 54 again...

Started by hearn, September 01, 2021, 08:44:43 PM

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hearn

Has anyone found a different option than that huge tractor battery way down in the hole?  I'm replacing the battery in my 54 Caddy, but I'm getting older and it gets harder every time.

Lexi

They are indeed the battery from hell due to their location. Sounds like you are looking for a new set up, OR would you settle for another battery that lasts longer than what you have been using? Clay/Lexi

Cadillac Jack 82


Nope.  I always have to angle the battery down and then slide it over before attaching the top cover and securing the bolts.  Just one of those fun things you gotta deal with on a 54-56.
Tim

CLC Member #30850

1959 Cadillac CDV "Shelley"
1964 Cadillac SDV "Rosalie"
1966 Oldsmobile Toronado "Sienna"

Past Cars

1937 LaSalle Cpe
1940 Chevrolet Cpe
1941 Ford 11Y
1954 Buick 48D
1955 Cadillac CDV
1955 Packard Clipper
1957 Cadillac Series 62
1962 VW Bug
1962 Dodge 880
1966 Mercury Montclair
1967 Buick Wildcat Convertible
1968 Chevy Chevelle SS
1968 Plymouth Barracuda
1977 Lincoln MKV

hearn

Clay, I'd like to hear about both options especially the longer lasting battery.  Thanks Jim

Mike Baillargeon #15848

I use this battery grabber and then I get the kid across the street to get the battery started coming up and out....

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-battery-carrier-1072924?cm_mmc=feed-_-GoogleShopping-_-Product-_-1072924&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpNqCguDg8gIVdeW1Ch1Nogo-EAQYBSABEgLJbfD_BwE

Someday one of us is going to make a battery tray kit that goes in front, just behind the grille of the car....

Mike
Mike
Baillargeon
#15848

hearn

I already manhandled it out, but would like some thoughts on getting one back in.  These batteries only seem to last me 3 years.  Garage stays good and warm all summer and I lose water and even though I replenish it, I don't think it likes that.

Lexi

#6
Hello Jim, some comments on wet cell old school batteries. I have heard that the repro original batteries do not last as long as some users expect they should. Perhaps owners of those can comment. I have used Interstate 3EE batteries and noted that the first 2 barely made it to 3 years or even less. The one currently in my car is fortunately at 3 years or more and another Interstate. Seems fine with no sign of slowing down. Perhaps luck of the draw as to what one they sell you? I think there are also 2 types, one with more cranking capacity but it also had a slightly larger case. Think it was higher if memory serves and I determined to pass as the cable terminal ends may not reach, (on my '56). >:(

In fairness to Interstate, I seemed to be topping up my batteries a little more than I should have back then as well. Found out I had an overcharging situation. Fixed that (was voltage regulator) which coincided with the latest battery install. Perhaps that is why this current battery is doing so well and perhaps why you have concerns based on your post. Over charging will shorten your battery's life. You may also see signs of it if the top of your battery case is slightly "wet", (indicative of boiled off electrolyte escaping through your vented cap/s). When adding water you should also only use the bottled stuff from your local auto parts supplier (and not tap water). Household water contains minerals that in time can attach to the battery's cell plates & cause problems. Further, that it is nearly impossible to properly check the water levels in the last 2 cells (under the fender), especially if the 4 inch hose is connected. Even so, I use an inspection mirror and shake the car and look for movement. Last time I used my bore-scope to get a better look. A royal PITA!

If you leave your battery connected to a battery tender for months, it is a good idea to put a higher amperage charger on the battery every month or so to aid in knocking any sulphation off of your plates. Battery tenders won't typically do that. This procedure of hitting your battery every month or so with a heavier amp charge should extend battery life. But keep it short, say 20 minutes to 45 minutes or so.

You should consider buying a (cigarette lighter) plug in volt meter like the one in the photos below, for use during the driving season. About $10 - $20 on Amazon. That way you can see what your battery is doing while at rest, starting and driving. Especially driving. And also to see how fast your battery recovers. Always nice to see what voltage numbers your battery is handling, especially when out on the road. Good peace of mind as well and it does not require any modification to your car. Just plug n' play. Remove when the driving is over. Only connect for tests and when you are driving to test. You may also want to check for a parasitic drain as well, (if working, your clock runs continually if I recall correctly). Best to have any working clock on a separate shut off switch at least to reduce unnecessary wear on it, as well as to save battery. If working, disconnect your clock and then conduct a parasitic draw test (with your doors shut).

As for finding a new battery mount location; some owners have a battery tray kit installed as described by Mike. I have not personally done this so no experience there. Good every once in a while to have your starter serviced and also to check your battery cables especially the positive one. They can often be significantly corroded internally but not show any sign of such on the exterior. Years ago I pulled what appeared to be good cable off but when I over flexed it, the cable sheathing split and a ton of green powdery corrosion came pouring out. Hope some of this helps. Clay/Lexi

hearn

Good advice.  I learned most of what you say the hard way.  Did find the monthly charge interesting.  Do the voltmeters you mention all fit in the caddy cigarette socket?  I looked at mine and they are awfully short.  Also, one brand I saw had dimensions and it appeared that the diameter of the part that goes in the socket was too big as they show it at 20 mm.  Do you have a link for one that definitely works?

Lexi

Jim, yes the one pictured is the one I use and it fits into my '56 cigarette lighter. i would imagine they would be the same in '54? Hope the link below works as I think this is the one I use, a "VST 3 in 1" voltmeter for your car. You can even plug your cell phone into it for a charge, (has a USB port on it), plus it lights up so you can easily read it, even in the dark. Will look in my parts book later to see if the cig lighters are the same for '54 and '56. Clay/Lexi


https://www.amazon.ca/MOHANND-Charger-Voltmeter-Thermometer-Battery/dp/B092JMZ473/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=vst+volt+meter+3+in+1&qid=1630619303&sr=8-2

Caddy Wizard

The 54 takes a 3EE battery, which has very low cranking amps (something like 450).  And the batteries don't last very long.  To get them in and out, the very best thing you can do is get a flexible battery carrying strap.  It is a length of fabric or plastic with loops on each end.  The loops slip onto the battery posts and support the weight of the battery when you lift the strap.  They are a god-send for replacing the battery in a 54-56 Cadillac.


Here is a link to such a strap offered for sale on amazon.  https://www.amazon.com/Uriah-Products-UV001970-Battery-Carrier/dp/B00FDXIGWS/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=automotive+battery+strap&qid=1630621315&sr=8-4


Also, you might want to upgrade the battery to a 3EET.  The 3EET battery is the same shape, but slightly taller, and will fit in the battery box perfectly.  You will need to get longer bolts for the battery hold-down.  But the existing positive and negative cables will reach.  The 3EET battery will start the car more easily without killing the battery in the process, particularly when the car has sat unused for many weeks and the carb and fuel pump are dry.  It has something like 550 CCA -- about a 20% increase in starting power.  Price is about the same.  Can be obtained many places, including Batteries Plus.


I have dealt with these issues for decades now.  One alternative I have looked at, but not pulled the trigger on, is using two 6v Optima batteries end-to-end with a cable connecting the positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of the other to achieve a 12v battery pack.  That pair should fit in the stock battery box.  It will yield incredible starting power (about twice the 3EE) and much greater durability.  It will allow easier replacement, as you can lift out the batteries individually.  The downside, you ask?  About $400 for a pair of Optima 6v batteries...


Art Gardner


1955 S60 Fleetwood sedan (now under resto -- has been in paint shop since June 2022!)
1955 S62 Coupe (future show car? 2/3 done)
1958 Eldo Seville (2/3 done)

Lexi

#10
Yes, Art is correct. The 3EET battery is the one I was trying to think of, and it is taller & packs a bigger punch. That is the one I passed on as was not sure if it would fit my '56 though. My '56 existing cables just fit on the 3EE, so was unsure about the 3EET and if no fit, I could not return the battery. Not being adventurous, I passed. The one that would probably be most problematic is the negative strap as it is connected in 2 spots, 1) at the starter mount, and 2) on the top side of the frame not far from the bottom of the battery tray area, (at least on my car). Not too much slack in that cable. Sounds like Art got these to fit so I may upgrade to a 3EET when time for a new battery now that I know it will fit. Just will need the longer bolts for the battery hold down.

Good that Art also mentioned the flexible strap. I do use one of those but it is still a bear to deal with. Battery still has to be tilted a ton to get in and out. Seems in my case I almost always lose my negative cable as it falls down the back of the battery tray area. Now I use a short bungee cord wrapped around the terminal end, then tie it off up somewhere around the hood spring. Stays up out of the way now.

Also, MPL data on cigarette lighters was mostly "All Greek to me" as it differentiated many '54 parts from '56, while using terms I am unfamiliar with. So at this time I am unsure whether the cigarette lighter "socket" is the same for both '54 & '56. If they are the same then you could use the above noted plug in voltmeter. Perhaps someone who has physically worked on both '54' and '56s can say if the cigarette lighter socket is the same with lighters being able to interchange. If so, the VST 3 in 1 will work in your car. Sorry I could not decipher the info provided, but I do not want to provide what may prove to be incorrect information. Will do some more looking around when have more time and report back if I find an answer. Clay/Lexi

wheikkila

Good evening
I think most people remember their batteries lasting longer years ago, because they did. One reason was, before maintenance fee batteries topping off the battery was a normal part of a oil change service. Along with oil changes were every 2500 to 3000 miles. Now they are 16000 or more. I purchase Optima batteries for all my cars. They do cost more but worth every penny.
Thanks Wayne   

hearn

Looks like 2 6v Optimas are 2 inches higher and one post would be way back in the hole, but it is a good idea.  I may try that next time.  As to batteries not lasting as long, we are also deep into planned obsolescence.  I would imagine service station attendants back in the day would hate to see a 54-56 Caddy coming when it comes to topping off the battery.

PHIL WHYTE CLC 14192

I have to agree that the battery size and position in the car is nothing but a pain! I disconnect my battery when not using the car and connect it to an Accumate charger. I had an overcharging problem that killed a couple of batteries before.

Roger Zimmermann

Quote from: lexi on September 02, 2021, 05:51:05 PM
Jim, yes the one pictured is the one I use and it fits into my '56 cigarette lighter. i would imagine they would be the same in '54?
They are all the same. Even newer cars have the same inside diameter. There are so many devices which are plugged into the cigar lighter on the market; if the cigar lighter were not universal, such devices could not exist.
1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101

walt chomosh #23510

Hi guys!
  Optima batteries are "made in Mexico" whereas Odyssey batteries (supplier of USA military batteries) and made in Missouri. I've found them to be very customer friendly. The choice was easy for me. My vintage Cadillac was one that they could not supply although they tried......walt...tulsa,ok

phildeville@cox.net

When I started restoring my '54 (1997), we stocked 3EE batt's in the crib for Hyster forklifts.  After I sold the shop & "retired" in 2007, my freebie source was gone, so I switched to a "dry cell" found in Hemmings.  Things were good for a few years & then it too....failed.  A replacement was over $500, including hazmat freight!  When I removed the battery, I removed one of the decorative caps & saw a part number on grey plastic thru the opening.  So....I took a drywall zip cutter & felt around the top of the case for the sidewalls.  Carefully slicing the top off, I found 2ea. 12v garden tractor / motorcycle modules wired in parallel inside. One was leaking lead.....
They had been epoxied to the bottom, so I band sawed the bottom off the case off flush to the inside floor, sanded off any remains, re-glued the bottom & then used a 4'' hole saw to cut 2 holes on each long side for ventilation.  Covered the holes from the inside w/ screen to deter critters!
I got 2 same size Odyssey modules from the battery supplier, tacked them down with a small dot of RTV & put hard poly foam spacers on the ends to keep them still. After rewiring the inside connections, I used black RTV filet to hold the top in place.  The original hold down covers the joint & the side vents are not visible from the engine compartment.  I have had to change them twice since then & it goes faster each time.  I do use a disconnect & tender as the EFI & stereo have parasitic draw. 


Phil
 
Phil Terry  CLC# 15270

Mike Baillargeon #15848

This thread caused me to take a look at my 55 Battery....My back started to ache as soon as I looked....

See the picture....the F6 sticker on top means it's June 2016....Yikes 5 years old already....This is a NAPA forklift battery.....

Mike
Mike
Baillargeon
#15848

hearn

Thinking more about the 2 6 volt Optimas, it should work fine to line these up with the terminals in the same direction and wire the two batteries in series by connecting to the furthest extreme posts which would leave the two bare posts just about in the same location as the stock battery only two inches higher.  I might try this next battery change as this one is all in place.