1966 Cadillac door pin

[Lexi]

On a 1966 Cadillac Deville, the striker pin that is attached to the door frame has a 5/16" Allen head. Looks like it has a revolving sleeve bearing plus 2 large flat washers. My question is will a standard T handle hex key remove this or is it tack welded or lock tight used to freeze it? If an Allen wrench can remove it, but it is stuck, is it safe to use a little heat or should it come off, perhaps by adding a little persuasion using a wrench & hammer on the Allen key as well? Also, are these pin with sleeve bolts still available new? Thanks in advance. Clay/Lexi

[fishnjim]

Talking about the round ones with a flat head?   I think replacements are still around(google).   The sleeve wears a groove and needs to be replaced and/or position adjusted(maybe).
I suspect they'll be quite troublesome to remove after all these years.   
Have to be careful with heat as the sheetmetal can warp.   
You probably have to go in behind (remove the rear interior panel) and see what's the situation.   I don't recall if there's a weld nut or regular nut in back.   If regular then the allen only has to hold it, not turn it.  And if it has a regular, you won't get it off just turning from the allen side.   Make sure you mark the spot so can put back.
I bought a good set of T-handles with ball end finally, because I have a "half million" sets of them and they just don't last and have to root around to find the right ones.   They never get back in the right slots and never throw out the twisted.

[Ralph Messina CLC 4937]

Clay,

That "bolt" pulls on an eccentric clamp inside the body that holds it in place. The eccentric allows the striker to be repositioned for alignment. Use a crisp wrench and you should be able to loosen it by hand or with an assist on the wrench. You can buy new repro ones from a Tri  Five Chevy vendor. If I recall it's Year One in Georgia. You will have to remove the interior upholstery  panel to get install the new one.

HTH

[Lexi]

Thanks guys. Was helping a buddy out today with his '66 Caddy convertible. Got some things done, but last on the list was this pin. Have left it for now, but as noted I suspect the panel will have to come off to see what is behind the Allen bolt. It is badly worn so will look for a replacement.    Clay/Lexi

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Before the days of the availability of these special tools, I made my first one using a grinder.

I got an Allen Key, and carefully ground out recesses between the angles of the tool, thereby making a Torx-type tool to fit.

Bruce.

[Lexi]

Bruce, your ingenuity never ceases to amaze! Clay/Lexi

[harvey b]

Back in the day we used to use Vise-Grips,I know its not proper,but hey it worked harveyb

[Cadman-iac]

  Hey Clay,

You're referring to the door latch striker. Yes, those would take a torx bit to loosen and adjust. Behind it those large washers are there to keep the hole covered that it's screwed into. The anchor nut floats free so that you can make adjustments to the position of the striker.
I don't know why, but not all of these anchor nuts are secured with a cage welded around it, so if you remove the striker bolt, it doesn't simply drop down into the door post.
You would think that would be something they did for all the vehicles, but I've had several where when I removed the striker to install a new plastic sleeve on it, that the nut just dropped right down into the post, requiring me to remove the interior trim in order to fish the nut back up into place.
So if you need to remove said striker, try to determine if the anchor nut is secured by a cage before you do, or you may be digging into the vehicle farther than you originally intended.
One of the vehicles that I had this issue with was my 88 Suburban. So try looking down the quarter panel or behind the trim on the center post. I don't know what bodystyle you are working on.
  Good luck with your repair.

  Rick

[Lexi]

Hey Rick, that makes sense. One reason I stopped as I did not know what was behind. It is my buddy's 1966 Deville that I was working on. If he brings it back for round 2 I will have a look to see what is on the flip side of that post. Thanks. Clay/Lexi

[Chuck Swanson]

I have taken many of these off on '65 66.  You just need a good heavy hex wrench and they will come off.  I have not had to remove any panels.  If was so stuck that it did not move, then removing the panel in back will let you lube with Mouse milk or something, but typically they just come off.  There are also stainless steel versions available in reproduction.  Save the plastic washer if you can, if not those are available in reproduction.  Body manual walks through the alignment steps, and would be good to read. 

I tightened mine just enough so when I closed door carefully it would move a little.  Marked with a pencil and tape too, then carefully opened door and when I have the door in the exact position, then fully tightened with hex.   Chuck

[Lexi]

Chuck thanks! Clay/Lexi