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Repairing Motor Mounts

Started by Jamurray, September 22, 2021, 04:19:52 PM

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Jamurray

September 22, 2021, 04:19:52 PM
I replaced the tired original 322 in my '40-5067. I broke both motor mounts. Is there a way to re-attach the rubber motor mount to its steel flange? I tried Gorilla Glue, but that failed. Anybody?

Poncholover

#1
September 22, 2021, 05:57:28 PM
I have seen companies that re vulcanize. Interesting question!
Flattie Caddy

dn010

#2
September 22, 2021, 06:25:51 PM
I'd suggest you contact steele rubber and ask them how much it is to re-vulcanize your motor mounts, that would be the proper repair. You can 'try' 3m marine 5200 adhesive but I'm not sure it would work and it takes forever to cure.
-----Dan Benedek
'57 Cadillac Sedan Deville 6239DX
'81 DMC DeLorean

Jamurray

#3
September 22, 2021, 08:25:21 PM
I ended up buying new ones. I have a feeling repairing motor mounts would be an exercise in futility. Thanks all for your advice. I still hope to get to Klingberg on Saturday.

Tom Beaver

#4
September 22, 2021, 09:26:34 PM
I have made new ones for my 38, but you must make a mold and recast the rubber using a special primer between the rubber and steel parts during the casting process.  And then heat treat them to cure the rubber and metal bond.  They are on the car and still in one piece.  I also remade the rubber bumpers for the sidemount covers using the same process.

Tom Beaver

Jay Friedman

#5
September 22, 2021, 11:13:39 PM
Many years ago I had the motor mounts for my '49 re-vulcanized by Steele Rubber Products in N. Carolina.  Have had no problems since then.
1949 Cadillac 6107 Club Coupe
1932 Ford V8 Phaeton (restored, not a rod).  Sold
Decatur, Georgia
CLC # 3210, since 1984
"If it won't work, get a bigger hammer."

Jamurray

#6
September 25, 2021, 04:05:35 PM
The new mounts arrived today. I'm not going to use the old ones I tried to repair.

The rebuilt '41 engine is out of the car. It was in the car, the driveline was complete, but I decided to try to turn the front pulley nut with a long power arm. It didn't move. All I could imagine was the '40 flywheel and the '41 block were not happy with each other. In my teens I replaced my worn out 85 HP original engine in my '39 Ford with a rebuilt '53 Mercury. I used the '39's flywheel. I didn't turn the engine before I installed it. I took it back out of the car and discovered the flywheel hit the back face of the engine when its bolts were tightened.

Something similar happened here, but the issue had to do with one bolt I installed that secures the bell housing. The new bolt was a quarter inch longer than the correct bolt, and tightened against the flywheel. It was just short enough that you would never notice it. The moral: make sure you can turn your engine after every step of the reassembly.

Had I done so I would have saved myself a lot of grief.
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