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1958 Cadillac 365 knocking?

Started by bigbry13, September 22, 2021, 10:21:38 PM

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bigbry13

Hi all
looking at possibly buying a 58 Cadillac that has been off the road for a while and wondering if you think this engine is possibly knocking. here is a link to the video. Its hard to tell by a video I know but perhaps someone can help me out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nqc1eQ-x_OA
Bryan
Bryan
CLC # 34220

Hillbillycat

Well, I´m hunting down a knock on my ´56 right now (see other thread).
Listening to your video I hear two noises when the engine almost idles. A high pitch clicking noise and a low pitched, dull one.
The lower, dull knock is what my 365 sounds like when hot.

So yes, I´d say it does knock.

dn010

I can hear a noise that shouldn't be there. Is the exhaust hooked up? If it has sat for years, like my 57, I had lifter noise that finally went away after an oil change and routing starting/running.
-----Dan Benedek
'57 Cadillac Sedan Deville 6239DX
'81 DMC DeLorean

Cadillac Jack 82


Sounds like a stuck or gummed up lifter.  Put some Marvel Mystery Oil in there and that should help.
Tim

CLC Member #30850

1959 Cadillac CDV "Shelley"
1964 Cadillac SDV "Rosalie"
1966 Oldsmobile Toronado "Sienna"

Past Cars

1937 LaSalle Cpe
1940 Chevrolet Cpe
1941 Ford 11Y
1954 Buick 48D
1955 Cadillac CDV
1955 Packard Clipper
1957 Cadillac Series 62
1962 VW Bug
1962 Dodge 880
1966 Mercury Montclair
1967 Buick Wildcat Convertible
1968 Chevy Chevelle SS
1968 Plymouth Barracuda
1977 Lincoln MKV

Michael Petti

Sounds like a dry upper end to me. Change the oil. If you want to try mystery oil. Drive it a little and see if it goes away. I did not hear a rod knock.

fishnjim

Probably should have prepped that motor/car before you started it up.   More damage that can be avoided.   It's loud because the air cleaner is off.   Shouldn't rev them up cold like that, until they warm up.   Common mistake.   There's a definite lifter noise on the driver side when the camera moves that way.   Run a compression test on it and see if you can isolate cylinders.   Could be some ancillary noises from the belts and pulleys, etc.   
They sit for a reason, and may have something to do with all that.   
I put $5K into my '58 motor to rebuild it plus another $2K for the 3x2 carb swop.   So just in case you're negotiating price, what kind of money you're looking at.   You can probably get by for $3.5-4K minimum, if it doesn't need the fully monty.   But parts and labor are more expensive now.

bigbry13

Quote from: fishnjim on September 23, 2021, 08:42:06 PM
Probably should have prepped that motor/car before you started it up.   More damage that can be avoided.   It's loud because the air cleaner is off.   Shouldn't rev them up cold like that, until they warm up.   Common mistake.   There's a definite lifter noise on the driver side when the camera moves that way.   Run a compression test on it and see if you can isolate cylinders.   Could be some ancillary noises from the belts and pulleys, etc.   
They sit for a reason, and may have something to do with all that.   
I put $5K into my '58 motor to rebuild it plus another $2K for the 3x2 carb swop.   So just in case you're negotiating price, what kind of money you're looking at.   You can probably get by for $3.5-4K minimum, if it doesn't need the fully monty.   But parts and labor are more expensive now.

i havent seen the car yet, just a video that was sent to me. im kind of antipating having to rebuild the motor, but would definitely be nice if i can get away with saving this one for the time being. I will for want to run a compression test when i am with the car in person. i honestly dont think ive ever conducted a compression test myself. isnt it usually a good idea to have the car at operating temp when doing it to get a more accurate reading? should i do it wet and dry? any tips? thanks!
Bryan
CLC # 34220

Hillbillycat

From what I heard a leak down test is the most interesting value. These testers run cheap on ebay.

V63

I have seen 'push  in'  style compression testers and never saw the value in those🙄, I prefer the 'thread in' versions to insure a good seal and reading. Maybe verify a fresh oil change?

Michael Petti

Check the water pump. A worn bearing or dry pump can sound like this. When you get to the car take off the belt and see if the engine still makes the sound. Also make sure there is coolant on the water pump and cooling system. it's just a thought.