News:

Due to a technical issue, some recently uploaded pictures have been lost. We are investigating why this happened but the issue has been resolved so that future uploads should be safe.  You can also Modify your post (MORE...) and re-upload the pictures in your post.

Main Menu

Starter issue

Started by KC Tom, October 01, 2021, 06:48:41 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

KC Tom

1940 Lasalle
I am told that there is a relay on the starter that prevents starter from working when motor is running. When motor is cold it fires right up but when running for awhile it is totally dead. After sitting awhile it works fine.
Contacts must be stick either in voltage regulator or relay. What do you think? Should note that is a 6 volt system running on a 8 volt battery for 4 years. The regulator has an adjustment screw to set voltage output. Anyone know where I can buy one of those.

Glen

This comes from the 40 shop manual. 
Glen Houlton CLC #727 
CLCMRC benefactor #104

KC Tom

Thai you for the information. My issue is that after I drive a few miles and shut it off it will not start, do you think it is the starter relay or regulator?

Yesteryear

Original starter solenoids used from 1937 to 1941 are stamped 1542, have 3/8"-16 copper studs, upper and lower covers, and a pair of cross arms on the passenger side of the solenoid.  If you have a 1 pc cover with 5/16-18 studs and 1 cover you have a 1942-48 flavor 1118102 that uses a different relay from 1542. 
One of the cross arm wires is attached to the starter switch on dash, the other wire should be attached to the "GEN" terminal of the regulator.  When the engine is off and the generator not spinning, the brushes allow the windings of the generator to go to ground.  This is why the regulator has a cut-out relay so as to isolate the battery from the generator when the engine is off preventing reverse current flow, shorting and discharging battery. 
The gen terminal wire is the grounding wire for the starter relay.  Without removing the starter you can use an ohm meter to test the relay wires to see which goes to ground (or if it does at all) or with assistance to push starter button see which wire is coming from the push button to solenoid relay. 
If you consistently achieve power feed from push button to solenoid, try using a jumper wire from chassis to other solenoid terminal and check results.  CAUTION: CAR may lurch if in gear so be careful to keep in neutral and set parking brake for safety sake. 
As long as your battery is staying charged, I seriously doubt your issue is a faulty regulator.  Everyone is always concerned about power sources forgoing GROUNDS to be a very viable culprit. 
I will also add there could be other connection issues due to oxidation within the solenoid relay assembly.  The relay has a screw and terminal attachment point inside the cover.  If there is oxidation or missing screw, this could be a problem.  Furthermore the relay frame itself is grounded to the solenoid via copper stud sleeve that, if not making good connection will cause problems.   Lastly, the solenoid body itself needs a good ground to work.   Original mounting screws used lock washers to not only secure solenoid to starter body but to insure good ground as well. 

Hopefully my rambling makes sense and will help you determine the cause of your no-start.  Feel free to contact me with questions. Dave
CLC 29460

dochawk

#4
not just ground, but *enough* ground.

When I installed the new starter on the '72, it was spinning feebly, even with a new, full charged battery.

It turned out that I'd left off that massive grounding strap . . .

oh, and if you're going to use a jump wire, make sure it's of sufficient gage, and the your hand is well insulated!
1972 Eldorado convertible,  1997 Eldorado ETC (now awaiting parts swap from '95 donor), 1993 Fleetwood but no 1926 (yet)