Converting Stock '37 LaSalle Temp Gauge To Electric..Need Source

[carlhungness]

     I'd like to convert my stock '37 LaSalle  Temp gauge to electric. Anyone know of a supplier who can do so?
     My '76 Eldorado engine is supposed to run a 210-230 degrees and I am guessing the LaSalle thermostat opened up at a whole lot less than that, thus my temp guage would be running full tilt hot when it's actually OK.
    I plan to run an idiot light as well which actuates at 260 degrees.

[35-709]

Carl,
That is exactly what will happen, the original gauge is set to read straight up normal at about 150 degrees,
with your engine the gauge will run full to the right hot all the time once warmed up --- been there done that with my '35.  As I posted a short time ago in another thread, Instrument Services in Machesney, ILL can convert the gauge to electric and recalibrate it.  www.clocksandgauges.com
Geoff N.

[35-709]

Here is another solution that I used on my '35 (didn't have the gauge on my '35 converted but have on others).  I purchased an "Antique Beige" AutoMeter temp. gauge (probably through SUMMIT).  These are available either with a bourdon tube movement or electric and will be a bunch cheaper than having your old gauge converted by Instrument Services and they look somewhat period correct.

[carlhungness]

   Your reply reminds me of the successful-unsuccessful ad campaign that I use as an example all the time.
    "Been there done that," is a statement we have all heard and used. But there was a time we didn't use it. Where did it come from?
     The Mountain Dew commercial that showed a bunch of young men, skate-boarders, mountain bikers, etc. . One would do a trick and another would say, "Been there done that."
    Thus we forgot all about Mountain Dew ad adopted the tag line..isn't that successful-unsuccessful?
    I seem to remember saying to myself, I should write down the name of that
gauge company I just read about on the Cad Forum..might need it some day.
   Thanks for the info, I think it is just what I needed. I'll ring them up on Monday.

[35-709]

   Maybe it would be better to say, "been there, happened to me."

[carlhungness]

   The gauge you posted is a beauty and I wasn't aware of this particular one. But, my '37 has a cluster of four and I want to retain the original. I've been mulling over how to get all the faces looking good, as a couple are well dimmed from the sun. I haven't tried polishing yet as I'm afraid of removing the lettering.

[35-709]

Understand that! 
Hate to sound like a broken record but talk to Instrument Services about restoring the gauge face and numbers/letters, quite sure they offer that service as well.

[tmdeturck]

If you are the "engineering type" and like to take on a challenge, here is another suggestion.  I've done this in the past, not for the 30's Cadillac but for other GM cars:  buy an aftermarket analog (or even digital) temperature gauge, and cut the case shell off of it, removing the case and the glass.  You are basically just after the mechanical or electronic movement.  Take the needle off, and mount it behind the original face plate. 

It takes a fair amount of work this way, as you have to research the aftermarket gages that are out there and see which ones have the swing and body dimensions that will fit - space is a bit tight in the 37 cluster.  You also have to set the needle position where it needs to be manually, but that isn't a big deal.

Not a path for the faint of heart, but if you enjoy the journey as much as the destination, it can provide hours of "engineering fun".

[carlhungness]

   I like the idea and may ask a man who does nothing but electrical if he has
a suggestion, his knowledge could get me on a path that would be rewarding.
Thanks

[cadillac ken]

I can tell you Carl, that I have done what you are attempting to do in my '37 Cadillac gage cluster. I used the OEM Temp gage face and attached the needle to the new "modern" gage. Once the gage is set in position it was necessary to calibrate it.  Which I did by boiling water, submerging the sending unit (all set up on the bench) with the gage wired up and then setting the needle to a mid position onto the gage that I know will be 212 degrees. I also added some numbers (a trick that I can explain later) 212 degrees at that point-- as well as 160 at the low end and 240 at the high end to give me some sense of where the engine temps are.  But it is a tedious process and conversion.  And as Terry said it is not a project for "the faint of heart".

The issue is that some of electric gages available when disassembled are kinda big and will not easily fit into the OEM space constraints.  Not to mention the gage needs to be one that has a pivot from the top of the gage not the bottom.  You can rearrange the gages in the OEM insturment cluster as they are will fit in any of the spaces, so with that said you may be able to find a gage that will work for you that has the traditional bottom pivot of the needle.

I used the Moal Bomber water temp gage.  It is a top pivot needle gage and it uses a standard GM sender SN25. But it is a very time consuming ordeal to convert.  It may be worth sending your gage out to the company suggested by an earlier post.  But be sure to see exactly how they will return the gage to you and that it will look that way you want it to. Why I try to do my own stuff to control the variables and no surprises upon unpacking parts that do not meet my expectations-- time and money lost. 

As for the gage face.  That's a tough one.  I serched for a nice set of gage faces.  I really don't think that you can clean them to easily.  I tried and worked my way around the graphics as carefully as I could but they didn't seem to get much better.  And that's the trick as others have pointed out, it's important to have all the gage faces matched and restoring one may stand out and the others will not "match" the "new" one.