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1952 Cadillac heat riser

Started by domer, May 14, 2009, 08:24:44 PM

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Philippe M. Ruel

Exhaust manifolds were the same from 1952 to 1955. They feature larger ports than 1949-51s, probably due to the use of 4-venturi carburetors from 1952.
1952 60 Special in France.

Otto Skorzeny

I think your elongated stud hole is due to heat, time, warpage, bent bolts, etc. I believe they were round when new.
fward

Ask not what your country can do for you, but what you can do for YOURSELF

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Jeff Maltby 4194

Don't think so @ 3/8" versus 7/16".
Jeffo 49er chapter

CLC 1985
Honda Gold Wing GL1500

Otto Skorzeny

Why didn't they just make the right sized hole in the right place? Is it meant to fit two different sized studs? If so , why is the other hole not oblong?
fward

Ask not what your country can do for you, but what you can do for YOURSELF

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Philippe M. Ruel

On the manifold on my car, the front stud is longer than the rear one. They have the same diameter.

On the heat riser, one stud hole is round and one is oblong. I don't know which one is front or rear in the car, but the elongated one is the right one on the picture I posted previously in this thread, it can be clearly seen there.

Forrest, one elongated hole is enough to correct a slight manifold warpage / stud displacement due to heat. A thick gasket will do the rest.
1952 60 Special in France.

Otto Skorzeny

fward

Ask not what your country can do for you, but what you can do for YOURSELF

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Philippe M. Ruel

Strangely enough, exhaust diameter both on manifold and on heat riser is about 46 mm (1-13/16"), as hole in gasket is 52.5 mm (2-1/16"). So a spacer with a hole less than 2" should do.

Both 13/32" stud holes on the gasket fit tightly, requiring some effort to go around 3/8" studs.
1952 60 Special in France.

Jeff Maltby 4194

I'm sending a 52-55 gasket up to Don today for a pattern. I've requested that he enlarge each stud hole by 1/32" to elevate any fitment problems. I to have noticed the gaskets are a tight fit like yours. I purchased a nos gasket kit recently that fit without the stud clearance problem.
Jeffo 49er chapter

CLC 1985
Honda Gold Wing GL1500

Roger Zimmermann

#28
Quote from: tower154 on March 15, 2020, 03:35:36 PM
I just had a spacer lasered here in Denver for $25.  I have contact info to have one made, and I'm also willing to share the cad file I created for it (.dwg or .dxf) if you'd like to have someone local laser one for you.
Would you let cut one for me? I'm in Switzerland, and shipping costs will not be a fortune. I intend to remove the heat riser (which is functioning well) and block the intake manifold gaskets with specific ones.
By the way, this is for a 1956 car. I'm not sure if the inside diameter is the same as for older ones. According to the master parts book, gaskets are the same from 1952 to 1956, therefore the diameter is the same.
1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101

Omarine

Roger, were you able to get the spacer?

I think i need one too, and i think here in FL the hot gases are creating hot fuel issues....

My car is a 52, but engine has 51 casting #s...

Any advice out there ?

Thanks
Oscar
1949 Harley Davidson FL
1952 Cadillac Coupe de Ville
1961 Chevy Impala 2 dr hardtop

Roger Zimmermann

Quote from: Omarine on May 10, 2020, 09:29:48 PM
Roger, were you able to get the spacer?

Oscar, I did nothing more. Well, not true: I had a defective heat riser; I took the valve out of it. The remaining element is awaiting some welding at the holes. No hurry! I did some short drives recently, the temperature was about 20°C, no issue. I was once in Florida for vacation, I understand that the situation there is totally different.
1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101

Omarine

Thanks Roger,

I got under my car and learned that my valve flops in any direction but it rests with the weight hanging toward the rear of the car.  It doesn't move hot or cold.

I think that’s the closed position. Does anyone know for sure?

I having fuel heat issues to not say vapor lock.

I’d like to wire the heat riser butterfly valve but i want to verify that when the weight is forward, toward the front bumper, that it is in fact open, to wire it there.

Can anyone please confirm that?

Thanks everyone

Cheers
Oscar
1949 Harley Davidson FL
1952 Cadillac Coupe de Ville
1961 Chevy Impala 2 dr hardtop

Roger Zimmermann

It would put it that way on a functional system: when the engine is cold, the spring is closing the valve and it's acting despite the weight. When warm, the spring is getting "weak" and the weight is stronger than the spring. He is moving towards the bottom, opening the valve.
I don't understand what you are writing: "my valve flops in any direction" and then "it does not move hot or cold" Ah! my English limitation!
The day the car was stored, the engine cooled down and the valve closed. If the storage duration was many years, the heat riser rusted closed.
1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101

Omarine

Thanks again Roger; your English is excellent!

What i meant was my valve will open or close, but the spring won’t change the position. It stays with the weight towards the rear of the car, which I believe is closed.

It stays closed and then my fuel gets hot...

Cheers
Oscar
1949 Harley Davidson FL
1952 Cadillac Coupe de Ville
1961 Chevy Impala 2 dr hardtop

Roger Zimmermann

Still unclear...The valve is moving, but not the weight? How can you see that the valve is moving? If your weight is towards the rear of the engine, it means that it's more or less horizontal. That the closed position. You will have to loose the nuts holding the exhaust tube; if you can push it far enough, you will be able to remove the valve. I hope for you that the nuts are not frozen on the studs!
A closed valve is really not good at all for the fuel and the engine itself.
1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101

Omarine

The weight moves and i can hear the valve moving with it. They move together by hand. But the spring doesn’t keep it open, even when hot.

Weight just rests towards the rear of the car and it stays there.

Thanks again Roger, im an going to try to wire it opened, with weight towards front bumper. I hope to avoid taking it apart if i can.

Regards
Oscar
1949 Harley Davidson FL
1952 Cadillac Coupe de Ville
1961 Chevy Impala 2 dr hardtop

Roger Zimmermann

Quote from: Omarine on May 12, 2020, 05:42:49 AM
The weight moves and i can hear the valve moving with it. They move together by hand. But the spring doesn’t keep it open, even when hot.

Weight just rests towards the rear of the car and it stays there.

Thanks again Roger, im an going to try to wire it opened, with weight towards front bumper. I hope to avoid taking it apart if i can.

Regards
Oscar
Oscar, just by asking, asking again and asking once more is the final answer logical! By reading your previous answers, I did not understand what was moving or not! Now it's clear. One detail: obviously, your heat riser is different than the '54-'57 I know well. On my car, the weight it up when cold and down when warm. The valve/weight is only moving 90°. By reading you last answer, I  have the impression that the weight/valve assy is moving 180°! (which is not possible) Indeed, I don't know on your car if the weight should be towards the rear or the front to have the valve open.
A last detail: the spring does not keep the valve open, just the weight alone. The spring is just closing the valve when cold.
1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101

jaxops

Quote from: Glen on May 18, 2009, 01:45:13 AM
I bought a product from NAPA called “Part Ease” which is no longer available. 
Glen
I used "Part ease" and got rid of the blasted thing! Now I am at ease without that part! I put the spacer in and it dropped my temperature significantly (mine was stuck closed).
1970 Buick Electra Convertible
1956 Cadillac Series 75 Limousine
1949 Cadillac Series 75 Imperial Limousine
1979 Lincoln Continental
AACA, Cadillac-LaSalle Club #24591, ASWOA

Omarine

Thanks! Im lucky to not have to to take it apart. “This should only take an hour “.... then 3 days later....
1949 Harley Davidson FL
1952 Cadillac Coupe de Ville
1961 Chevy Impala 2 dr hardtop

Caddy Wizard

For folks with a broken 1949-1956 heat riser (or missing), a spacer can be used in place of the heat riser. On the single exhaust cars (1949-1951), if you eliminate the heat riser, it is critical to use a spacer, or else the angle of the exhaust pipe flange won't match that of the manifold and you'll have an exhaust leak.

I used to sell these spacers to take the place of a broken heat riser. I've decided to make them again. They should be available from me in mid-January. $50 including shipping in the US.
Art Gardner


1955 S60 Fleetwood sedan (now under resto -- has been in paint shop since June 2022!)
1955 S62 Coupe (future show car? 2/3 done)
1958 Eldo Seville (2/3 done)