1968 Ball Joints

[Will68]

1968 DeVille Convertible, 144,000 miles:  August 2021 I had my mechanic replace both front end sides upper and lower ball joints on my vehicle.  Parts, rather difficult to get, were a mix of Moog and another sourced from O'Reilly's:  two were circa $55 each and two were $96 each.   Labor was just shy of $400, so $50 per joint to install.   Inspection of the old joints revealed loose (but not horribly sloppy) condition in all of the joints . . . almost even deterioration all around.   

My problem - Alignment: before the replacement the vehicle drove straight as an arrow at all speeds.  After the ball joint install it still drove straight - no drifting, but, mechanic recommended an alignment given the new install of joints and 7 years since last check.   After alignment there is now a very noticeable drift to the right at low speed (just rolling at 2 mph the drift is very pronounced).  It has been on the newer electronic alignment machine four (4) times with readout saying it is in specification.  After fourth attempt they tinkered with camber rods but made no difference.   Shop owner gave up, refunded me and advise I take elsewhere

Any observations on this problem welcomed.

[Highwayman68]

Yes those new machines don't understand our older cars and provide false recommendations on adjustments which today's mechanics only know how to follow. You need to find someone who has the old equipment and knows these cars and knows how to make adjustments without a computer involved.

[Dave Shepherd]

Do you have a printout of the final settings, if so try and post them. We do a lot of this work in my shop. There is no info in a modern alignment  machine, so you can just set up the alignment  manually based on factory specs, changes in the settings are required if the car has radial tires

[Big Fins]

Set the right side (passenger) 1/2^o more positive than spec with radials. Make toe-in 1/8".

[Caddyholic]

Did you replace the upper and lower A arm bushings? And strut rod bushings?

[Dave Shepherd]

Big Fins, what setting  are you referring to camber?  When using radials you would try and get some positive caster. With the old school steering linkage normally you need a little more toe in to compensate for the usual slop at all the joints.  Just referring to all alignments  done on those generation cars in my shop.

[Big Fins]

I just re-read my post. Yes, caster is what you want. My bad by not proof-reading.

[Dave Shepherd]

Hey I proof read and still fumble. Lol

[Big Fins]

(sigh) Age does that.