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63 390 timing cover removal

Started by Roberts 63, December 13, 2021, 02:37:34 PM

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Roberts 63

Hello all I have a 1963 Caddy 390 that has jumped time. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove the timing cover with frozen bolts I surly don't want to distort the cover etc. Thank you.

savemy67

Hello Robert,

The most important tool for the task ahead of you is patience.  If the timing cover bolts are truly seized, there are a few things you can try.

One method is to liberally soak the bolt heads with penetrating fluid in the hope that some will get to the threaded shank of the bolt.  Several applications of the fluid may be necessary over the course of a couple of days.  You can also try hitting the bolt head, in line with the bolt, to see if the "shock" will loosen the bolts.

Another method is to use a torch and heat the head of the bolt until it glows a dull red.  Let the bolt cool, hit it with a hammer, and see if it is loose.  Sometimes, tightening then loosening works, after the heating.

If worse comes to worse, and the bolts snap off, you may have to avail yourself of a drill and a screw extractor, which will most likely require the removal of the fan, water pump, and maybe the radiator.

Respectfully submitted,

Christopher Winter
Christopher Winter
1967 Sedan DeVille hardtop

TomJudd

General tip , HEAT, multiple times heat cool cycle. I have used an air hammer to shock seized bolts. Take your time.On some exhaust manifold bolts, Have snapped heads, now u can pull of whatever is bolted on. Heat at base of hopefully remaining stud. Then if broken flush , weld a larger nut to the stub. air hammer. Sometimes have welded nut come off but be patient. When breaks free work it in / out slowly.  Never had one not removed. IMO, drilling w left hand twist drill last option....Never had easy out work

Caddylackn

This is really a two day job.  For a penetrating oil, I have had good luck with PB Blaster or the 1/2 acetone 1/2 trans oil mix.

First day:
I like to tap the head squarely repeatedly with lots of light hammer taps after cleaning the bolt head and shoulder really good with a wire brush and after applying a penetrating spray.  The vibration seems to help break up rust and soak in penetrating oil deeper.  Spray it tap away, then reapply in about an hour, give it a bunch more taps, more penetrating oil, and wait a day.  An impact wrench on low air setting works really good for this alternating with the hammer if you can get one in there. 

Second day:

Reapply a spritz of penetrating oil, then give it a few more love taps:  Use a 6 point socket on a 1/2" breaker bar.  You just want to initially break it free but no more than 1/8 of a turn. Hit it with another dab of penetrating oil, then tighten it back up a little bit.  Then loosen a little bit, and retighten.  Repeat.  I would work in 1/4 turn increments.  Go 1/4 more turn loosening then the previous turn.

What you don't want to do, is break it free then continue to loosen as it gets harder and harder then have it seize up from the corrosion dust stacking up and galling up in the threads, and continue to strong arm it.  It will break.  Repeatedly loosening and tightening helps work out the corrosion on the threads in the block (and getting penetrating oil inside the block) without galling it up and seizing again.

I like to use heat to remove stubborn bolts, but with the timing cover on, it will be hard to get enough heat to the threads inside the block without damaging the cover or possibly starting the baked on oil inside the timing cover on fire.  If I were to use heat, I would use it for about 15 seconds, then wait 15 seconds and hit it with the penetrating oil spray, the sudden cooling and contraction of the bolt from the spray should break some rust bond on the threads and draw some penetrating oil deeper inside.
'61 Fleetwood 60- owned for 31 years
'61 Series 62 2-door - sold
'64 Series 62 2-door -sold
'67 Sedan De Ville - sold
'74 Eldorado Convertible - sold

Roberts 63

Thank you all for your help. I brought a lot of patience thanks