Polishing Glass With Cerium Oxide & Installing Weatherstripping

[carlhungness]

   I have read one can polish out very minor scratches with cerium oxide, so thought I'd try it as I near completion of my '37 LaSalle coupe restoration.
   Near as I can tell one mixes the material with a bit of water and applies it with a sponge or felt pad. I used my quarter inch drill and the process went very well as I'm familiar with where to put pressure on a spinning disc. I bought some soft discs, sponge and felt and used only the sponge to apply. I probably could give the glass some additional polish if I'd go over it with felt, but results seemed very acceptable as is.
  It won't do much good to show you the finished process, so here's a couple photos of the drill-pad-glass. I used my 12' snooker table as a base of operations.
   The windshield is tinted green and the rest is clear. I broke the vent windows getting them out, so need new ones plus one back window that was broken.
   I recommend watching the YouTube video by Steele for anyone who is going to install weather stripping. It was most informative and in a nutshell, one uses about as third as much as you'd guess to install door/trunk weatherstrip. They use 3M weatherstrip adhesive applied very sparingly, then spread, then allowed to tack, then install the rubber. They've applied the adhesive to both surfaces, but with the thinnest imaginable amount, just a skinny line.
   

[wheikkila]

This is good to know. I purchased a air driven kit with two different guns that have different speeds. For doing headlights. It worked so well I used it on my LaSalle. I was very happy with the results.
         Thanks Wayne 

[fishnjim]

Most all the pre-war and some post war glass is flat.   So very replaceable.  It's the curving ones that are a pain to obtain.
Ball's or any auto glass place can cut out.   The windshield gets laminated glass.  Sides tempered.
The issue with old glass isn't so much the surface but if it's laminated(safety glass)(>'27), the old plastic yellows and separates from the edges.   Can't be fixed.   
My friend has a car he asked how to do, so I'll pass it on.   Thanks.

[wheikkila]

My plan is to replace the glass when I replace the seals. But I haven't got to it yet. I was busy rebuilding the suspension and replacing the wiring. Right now I just want to get it running again and maybe do the windows and rubber this summer when it is to hot to drive it. I would like to think I could do it in a day or two.
                               Thanks Wayne   

[carlhungness]

       Don't know how far you are going to go in replacing seals, etc. but I do know the cost of the window channel, whiskers, etc. for my '37 is $247.29, plus the quarter windows are $124 ea, w'shield gasket is $154, plus vent and rear windows, door and trunk rubber, cowl vent rubber and on and on.
       There is quite a bit of difference in cost of fully vulcanized or by the foot rubber for the front and rear glass. You can save by allowing a split to show. I am going to buy the vulcanized for looks and ease of installation.
        I think all rubber is going to take some time to install, especially the stainless edged whiskers, on the side windows. Fitting the vent window framework is tricky too, so I'd say you should consider a whole lot more than a day. It'd be nice to have a helper too, and as noted previously take a look at the YouTube video by Steele on installing weatherstrip. I'm going to drum up some practice strips myself.
        I'm still cogitating on what type of adhesive to use on my running boards. The contact cement will work just fine, but I'll need a trust worthy second set of hands to lay it down perfectly, first touch. I spent days straightening out the stainless steel end caps so have lots of hours already invested.

[wheikkila]

I was just thinking about the front windshield. i have already replaced all the door and truck rubber and the front vent. I have already purchased everything to do all the windows and vent windows. I have already replaced the interior through SMS. Looks fantastic. I'm now finishing all the mechanicals. I have not touched the original outside paint. It still looks good from a distance. I'm still playing with painting the outside and replacing the windows and seals at that time. To do all the windows and doors will take a month or more. But that would be time to paint it.
                             Thanks Wayne     

[carlhungness]

   Sounds like a wonderful project, I'm looking forward to doing the interior. I am in the midst of installing "Siless" sound deadening adhesive backed rubber insulation throughout the body. I'm also adding mass loaded vinyl where I can to get the cockpit as quiet as possible. I (had) a helper for a couple of hours but I think he decided the job was too dirty, so have finished it myself. I've used up half a dozen wire wheels on an air tool so far.

[Big Fins]

Poor guy! I wouldn't want that job.

[carlhungness]

      He wouldn't wear a hood. I put on a rain-coat, sandblaster hood, etc. and went through several wire brushes on an air tool to remove all the old tar paper. I'm happy with the results and now installing Siless adhesive backed rubber along with mass loaded vinyl where I can get it in.
       The cockpit ought to be as quiet as it ever was. Back in the day more than one Cad-LaSalle owner has been known to hit the starter button only to find out the flat-head is already running. It will be interesting to hear my 500" engine from inside the car..I'd like it to be as quiet as the original.
       I just bought some extremely high quality firewall insulation used in home built aircraft and will put insulation plus the vinyl up to keep the heat and sound under the hood.
      Researching lots of things on this rebuild have sure given me some pleasure.