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1941 Accelerator Pedal - Hydramatic

Started by J. Russo, December 10, 2022, 01:17:06 PM

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J. Russo

I'm curious if anyone else has experienced the same issue I'm having with my accelerator pedal. The pedal is for a Hydramatic transmission.

I attached a few photos. Shortly after I purchased my Series 63 the accelerator pedal snapped off in 2 pieces near the bottom. I purchased another pedal that had a little surface rust but was in good condition and it was straight. I also painted it with rust preventive paint to slow down any corrosion. I installed the painted pedal in the car and also purchased another one I found as a spare.

As you can see in the photos, the painted pedal is now bent. I noticed also that the thin rod that attaches to the accelerator pedal also has a bend in it.

These pedals are very long and the metal is not very thick, but I can't imagine they would bend that easily. I do have to press the pedal a little more than a modern car. I'm not sure if there is anything in or how to adjust the linkage that would take the stress off of the pedal and the rod.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
John Russo
CLC Member #32828

Daryl Chesterman

Maybe someone has put a return spring on the carburetor that is too strong.  Disconnect the spring and see if the linkage moves more freely.  If it is still binding, you will need to disconnect things one at a time to see where the binding is taking place.

Daryl Chesterman

Bob Schuman

My 1949 issue of the MPB lists two different part numbers for 1941 manual and automatic transmission cars, with no price difference, so I can't say what is different between them. Yours should not have bent unless it was badly weakened by rust, which you would have noticed. The pedal should be pretty easy to depress, regardless of which transmission type the car has. If disconnecting the return spring does not give the answer, all of the linkage, of which there is plenty on an automatic, must be checked for binding.
ALSO, with an assistant, check that when the pedal is depressed, the linkage is not trying to move the lever on the transmission beyond its internal stop. That could result in internal damage, not a simple fix.
Adjusting the linkage from the accelerator pedal to the carburetor and to the transmission requires the 1941 Shop Manual for instructions to get everything working as designed, and without that manual it is very unlikely you will be successful. Terry Wenger and I learned this after much wasted effort a few years ago.
Bob Schuman, CLC#254
2017 CT6-unsatisfactory (repurchased by GM)
2023 XT5

J. Russo

Thank you for the suggestions. It's always good to get feedback to confirm my suspicions. The pedal itself is in good shape. It's good to know that the pedal should move more freely. The problem is definitely in the linkage and I believe it is where the adjustments are made near the carburetor along with the spring. I'll have to straighten the bottom rod that connects to the pedal also.

I'm in the process of replacing my transmission cover as the original is corroded from water damage over the years. I'm also rust proofing the floor.

I'll report back what I find.

Thanks,
John Russo
CLC Member #32828

J. Russo

Update: The problem with my accelerator pedal being too tight to push down was definitely due to the return spring near the carburetor being set too tight. I loosened the tension on the spring and it helped a lot.

My linkage was also a little loose where the different rods connect with a cotter pin and small spring. I installed some flat washers for more stability at these connection points. That helped also.

Thank you for your input.
Thanks,
John Russo
CLC Member #32828

bcroe

With the extra linkage going down to the trans, 
there certainly is more chance of things binding. 
Check all those links for a problem, I think mine
had some egg shaped wear from use and tension. 

Apparently those early trans setups were a bit
marginal.  I might take those broken pieces and
weld up something a lot stronger.  Bruce Roe