49-earlier Hydramatic slack in steering column shift linkage Tip of the Day

[Jeff Maltby #4194]

By: Bill Woodman Northrop colo SS April 1977 mag

Linkage (hydramatic). These models often have great amounts of slack, making selection of gear difficult or in-precise. This is usually the result of wear or cracking of the casting which rotates and is attached to the shift lever.

The 49 and earlier hydramatics had a mechanically actuated reverse gear and normal wear made taking the car out of reverse difficult. Bumping the shift lever upward eventually wore or split the part. This can be repaired without removal of anything but the shift lever. Drill one or two small holes through the housing into the shift tube. Install short self tapping screws which will "Pin" the housing to the tube again. Before drilling, take the slack out by rotating the housing "clockwise".

It is important that the transmission be re-adjusted so that reverse is easier to disengage or the problem may return.

The 1950 and later models did not suffer from the problem because reverse was hydraulically actuated.

[Art Archambeault]

Hi Jeff, hope all is well.  Great tip, I saved that one.
 I have been, when I feel great torque on the lever when running, shutting it off, back to nuetral and restarting. It works but is a pain.
   Could you be more precise as to where I make this repair.

  Also, I just received the trunk lining material.
As you know, it is lined, meaning the material itself has thread
running in lines through it. When installing, do these lines run across the trunk from fender to fender, or are the lines in the material run with the lenghth on the car from hood to rear fender, to be correct.  Hope I explained that right. I have just the trunk to finish out and the steering wheel to re do and the project is complete.  At xmas, of all places, my b.i. laws junk yard, he has a 49 series 61 and the linence plate bracket for front bumper was sitting right there waiting for me.
Have looked all over for this part.
  Do you know if this part was original body color at the time, chromed or something else?  I cleaned it up, painted it Darmouth green and it looks great.  Finally mounted my Caddy plate and 2 flags , looks great.    Thanks Art

[Robt.Vonheck via a drenched SanDiego Calif.]

Jeffo: [fyi] -since i never experienced this problem on any of my past five 49-Cads., am wondering if this Reverse-lock hang-up problem stems from maladjustment or lack of lubricant somewhere in the linkage;  as should never require excessive force to move the Steer.column/control-arm.   Also, the fnt.Bumper License-bracket was oem/Satin-black, --but Epoxy-black from a rattle-can does a nice permanent job...    ~Bob vH  

[Jeff Maltby #4194]

Morning Art. Im not an expert on hydros but idle speed and transmission rod adjustment to the carb linkage is critical for proper operation the old Hydra-Matics. Id read your shop manuel very closely for the specified adjustments of both.

As to the Pin fix. Bill is correct in that the inner collar casting under the shift lever outer ring was prone to cracking. This collar extends up through the center of the turn signal inner collar, to a spline directly under the steering wheel nut threads (under the horn button) on the main tube.

Bill is stating to remove the shift lever chrome nut then remove the lever only-this will expose the inner casting, then screw through the casting into the shift tube. Im not sure if he means the "Main solid tube or the 360 degree collar that extends out of the main body of the column by approx 1" ? I can snap you some digital pictures of a 1950 column innards when I get home tonight.

As to your trunk lining material ? My coupe has the oem carpet and cardboard kick panels. My carpet grain is comprised of 1/8" gray squares throughout the trunk. So if you purchased Exact oem material it would make no difference which way you placed the carpet in my view ?

The lic plate brackets were painted in oem black lacquer only.

Ill chat we you further about this when I get back from work this evening with camera ready for your needs.

Thanks

Jeff

[Jeff Maltby #4194]

Art. I just snapped pictures of my 50 steering column that is apart.

Email me direct.

Jeff 49 coupe

[Jeff Maltby #4194]

Roberto (fyi). I have one more tip from Bill out of the April 77 SS mag about 49 steering gear rebuild. Briefly he states the "Main Wear" seems to occur on the sector gear and its 2 bushings.

Ill post Excellent tip soon, tokeep them younger laddies @ bay on this board. HA

P.s. Black lacquer was either rubbed out on the main body or on the license plate bracket, left as painted in 49 ?

Jeffo 1952-2005 49 Fastbacks Rule

:<)

[Thomas Bredahl]

This seem like the topic for me.....at least it is area related ;-)
My column selector lever is missing its "spring action" and thus do not return to its forward position when gear is selected. My question , before taking the column apart, would be: How do i fix this problem? and whats the correct way to take disassemble this part of the column.

[Paul Flykt #18899]

Where do you find epoxy paint in a rattle can?

[Kathy]

Paul,
Home Depot. We repainted our steering wheel with spray can black epoxy. Wet sanded with 240 and did 3 good coats 10 years ago. 15,000 miles later, it still looks good.

[daniel]

You have a broken shift leverl spring.  It is a fairly stiff, U-shaped spring that typically breaks at the bend.  There was a guy advertising in the Self Starter about 6 months or a year ago who had a bunch of these made, selling them for $15/.  
To install, you need to pull your steering wheel and insert the new spring.  
Ill look to see if I still have a receipt for the spring.  
Dan

[Jeff Maltby #4194]

Thomas. I disassembled a virgin 48 column last night to gain further insight into Bills Shift Column tip. In your case of the lever not returning,I found the shift lever has a piece of thin spring steel on each side, along with the inner shift lever being tapered so I believe this is how the lever springs back after engagement of the gears.

I also realized I made a dumb statement in saying the lower casting comes up to the splines under the steering wheel nut=this spline is for the steering wheel itself to engage DUH.

Im having email problems at the moment, not being able to send or receive. I will take pictures of the column tonight to give you a perfect picture of what you will be up against.

I still need to removed the lower casting that splits before I give my final thoughts about the meaning of Bills tip.

Back soon.

Jeff 49 coupe

[Thomas Bredahl]

Thank you Daniel and Jeff.

[R.Vonheck]

Jeffo:   -am probably not understanding correctly, but anyway, --that little 3/4"-long x 1/2"-wide thin leafspring slipped into the selector-levers pivot-pin has nothing to do with the hang-up problem in Reverse;  -that simply maintains a slight-load on Selector-arm so as to prevent its otherwise seeming to be flopping around....    ~Bob vH  

[Robert Bothwell CLC # 20850]

Funny you should ask. As I sit here at my computer, I have two cans of Rust-oleum Specialty
Appliance Epoxy Ultra-hard enamel at my feet. I got it at Lowes
but I suppose anyone that handles Rust-oleum has it.
Happy spraying!
Bob

[Jeff Maltby #4194]

I understand this Roberto. I got caught up in Toms problem-o before finishing my oem tip drible.

Im still working on it.

Jeffo

[Jeff Maltby #4194]

Drivel=my mistake