Author Topic: Proper oil  (Read 1590 times)

T.L. (Ty) Stinson

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Proper oil
« on: July 09, 2005, 07:32:27 AM »
Good morning: Taking my 37 8519 home TODAY! Very exciting knowing it will soon be in my garage and can begin restoration. Can you tell me what type of engine oil to bring with me for the V-12?

JIM CLC # 15000

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Re: Proper oil
« Reply #1 on: July 09, 2005, 04:22:29 PM »
TY, I have a feeling that you will not find the engine oil called for, for your engine, so, my advise would be to drain the engine for about 1 or 2 days (tape a cloth over the plug-hole if the car is parked out-side) and fill the crank-case (oil-pan) with your favoret brand/weight of oil. (the metal parts will not know the difference).
I would suggest that you use 20W40 ( if you can get it) as a minimun. Just make sure that the second number is at least 40.
If you are concerned, remove and clean the oil pan prior to putting in new oil, altho. I dont think you need to pull the pan as by leaving the plug out for a day or two will drain out all of the old oil. Be sure to use a LARGE drain pan. My 38, V8 holds 7 qts. Most cars of today only hold 5 qts. And drain pans are made accordly.
Good Luck, enjoy, Jim

JIM CLC # 15000

  • Guest
Re: Proper oil
« Reply #2 on: July 10, 2005, 01:10:07 AM »
TY, according to the infomation in the Motors Auto Repair Manual the oil listed for the V12 is as follows; 9 qt. cap.
(maybe more if it has a filter. +32 degrees, 20.
+10 degrees,20W. -10 degrees, 10W. ( I dont know the difference between 20 and 20W, as listed)
Also, information you might like to know; spark-plug gap,.025
dist. point gap, .020, tires, 7.50X16, inflation, 32 psi front and rear. Radiator, 25 qts, Fuel tank, 25 gallons. Maxium brake horse-power, 150 @ 3600RPM. The V12 has 368 CID with a compression ratio of 6.00. 6VDC with POSITIVE GROUND
As I said in my first post, Use a good grade(brand) of 20W40 oil. The engine will never know the difference and who knows, it may run better!
 Good Luck, Jim

T.L. (Ty) Stinson

  • Guest
Re: Proper oil
« Reply #3 on: July 10, 2005, 12:37:11 PM »
Hello Jim: Many thanks for the information. The car is safe in my garage and I am ready to begin the basics. I will start by changing the oil as you suggested. The car starts very easy but I will change the battery/starter cables (stud to the starter) with a larger diameter and add a kill switch. Engine smokes but I was told that will dissapear when the old gas and presertive is gone. I have added 5 gallons of fresh regular gasoline. The engine runs lean and I was told the carburators may need cleaning. The car drove right up the encline with no hesitation in first gear almost at fast idle turning into my driveway and parked. I took out the seats and throughly cleaned all the fabrick everywhere and in the trunk. That is when I noticed that the wood underlament had been replaced with zinc coated steel sheething. Caught a field mouse just beginning nesting under the back seat. Ball of debri was already built from fabric under the seat but not anything new damaged...pure luck.
The right front brake jammed when I slowed to a stop. Left rubber for about a foot long on the driveway. Later drove the car up the driveway with no braking insident but Im sure it is still there. Will start replacing all tires and rebuild the brakes. Hood top chrome strip needs replacement and need glass for the hood ornament. One door has a bad fill job and needs redoing because you can see the edges under the primer. The rest of the body is fine. Primer needs a lot of sanding prep for painting. Chrome needs to be removed. Must I take off the fenders? The bead is primed and may need replacement after painting? Running boards need reworking and missing the chrome strips. Lots of cracke glass. Should it all come out? The caulking is brittle and poor. Should all windows come out, grind out all the old caulking for a good paint job and reinstall new glass? Need a tail pipe and the radiator may need some minor work. Don/t thin the gas tank gage is working. Infact, I dont know if any of the lights work. So, this is already too long for here so Im gone. Many thanks. Ty

JIM CLC # 15000

  • Guest
Re: Proper oil
« Reply #4 on: July 11, 2005, 01:09:26 AM »
TY, sorry to hear that you are having trouble with the brakes.
I had the same problem, one wheel brakes, most likely the other three wheel-brake-cylinders are frozen and you will have to install wheel cylinder kits, or, new wheel cylinders. While you are at it , replace the flex hoses. Try KANTER AUTO PRODUCTS
they have a web site and an on-line catalog + toll-free phone number to order. I have a kill-switch installed in the ground cable.(dont ask me why, I just figured it was best there).
TY, mice love old cars, I think the second one and on smell where the first one peeded and come to visit and make themselves at home. Changing the oil may cut-down on the smoking. If the battery starts the engine ok, I would delay changing it until it fails.( the battery has been in mine for about six years. Big R farm stores should have the 6VDC batteries.  TY, It doesnt cost a lot to replace all of the glass if you can find someone with the correct patterns, otherwise you will have to remove the glass and use it as a pattern.(Most any good glass shop can get the flatglass required. Tires: I think I got mine from IMPERIAL TIRE Denver, CO. They may have an 800 phone number.
Good Luck, Jim

Rhino 21150

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Re: Proper oil
« Reply #5 on: July 23, 2005, 11:11:12 PM »
My shop manual for 1937-38 says to use 30 oil for summer operation, between 70 and 100 degrees. Use 20 for lower temperatures, down to 20, below that use 10 oil. The W doesnt mean much to contemporary oils. If you have a filter, use a modern detergent oil, if no filter, use non-detergent. All of these oils are available at Auto Zone, Advance Auto and OReillys and are the same price as 10-30 or 5-30. You shouldnt need heavier oils (40 or 50) unless you are driving at 55+ for several hours.
Oil burning in these cars is NORMAL. If the you burn a quart every 500 miles, dont worry. The engine will smoke when started if it sits for several weeks. It shouldnt smoke continuously until you are burning a quart every 200 miles.
Change oil every 2,000 miles, remove and clean the oil pan every 10,000 miles.
Thats what the book says, but modern oils wont burn as easily or lose lubricity as fast. Every 3,000 should do on the changes, scrape the pan at 20,000.
Cranken Hope Publications has the shop manual (reprint) for $35. Get one! 412-459-8853

brian rachlin

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NON-detergent oil
« Reply #6 on: July 24, 2005, 07:36:44 AM »
I would change it and put in straight 30 NON detergent oil, if you can find it.  Dropping the pan to clear out al old sludge is a great idea.  If you dont, the cleaning properties of modern multi grade oils will pick up the accumulated crud in the bottom of the pan, and put it in suspension with the oil and circulate it through the engine, and that is not good.

Just my opinion...


Mike #19861

  • Guest
Re: NON-detergent oil
« Reply #7 on: July 25, 2005, 07:54:41 AM »

 I would agree with Brian. If this engine has not been rebuilt in the time that detergent oils have been readily available, then do not use detergent oils. They will do just as he described and break up  any deposits in the oil galleries and can cause then to plug causing catasrophic engine failure.

 If it has been rebuilt, and fed a steady diet of detergent multi viscosity oils, I would continu this practice. They are vastly superior to any of the oils that this engine used in its younger years.

 Personally, I would use one of the excellent and readily available HD diesel oils. They have superior protection qualities over regular SF rated oils. Shell Rotella T, Delo or Delvac oils are widely used in the HD trucking industry and are formulated to offer superior protection for up to 50,000 mile drain intervals. They have a higher detergent and anti-oxidant content, which will better protect your engine. If you have an oil filter (likely of the by-pass type) an oil change interval of 3000 miles, or twice per year is good preventative maintenance. If there is no oil filter, then a change interval of 2000 miles should be followed.

 Good luck with your new toy!



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