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68 472 hot start problem

Started by Andrew 10642, July 17, 2005, 09:50:44 PM

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Andrew 10642

Hello all.

The 472 wont have its starter engage when warm, have to wait for the cool down of about 30 minutes. . .

Question, can I just replace the solenoid, or do I have to replace the starter and solenoid?

I wait for enlightenment. . . .

Bruce Reynolds # 18992

Gday Andrew,

You can replace the solenoid as a unit, but I wouldnt be surprised if that isnt the full problem.

You see, the solenoid is operated by an electric current from the Ignition Switch and that then magnetically forces the plunger to send the bendix into the ring-gear teeth, and at the time of full meshing, then the current is applied to the windings of the starter motor to turn the bendix.

It sounds like you have a possible heat related problem that needs solving first.

Seems like now would also be a good time to have the Starter reconditioned as the brushes are most likely on their last legs, and the commutator probably needs cleaning and re-grouving.

Bruce,
The Tassie Devil(le),
60 CDV

Andrew 10642

Thanks Bruce,

I now undestand how the starter works!   When the ring gear is fully engaged, is there a trigger to allow cranking of the starter motor?  If there is no clicking when the key is turned, does that mean the solenoid is shot(if battery/connections ok)?

A new starter is $90 on Ebay (havent checked local parts folks)
see Item number: 798728858.  A rebuilt one I hear has a variety of issues, and your solution seems least expensive, but I will have to find a place to recondition it.  Would any electric motor shop work?

Really appreciate your help.  Finally got the dead Volvo off the lift, and can do some overdue car maintenance tasks.

Andrew

Bruce Reynolds # 18992

Andrew,

Yes, when the solenoid plunger is fully in, it presses on a plunger that causes a brass disc to complete the circuit to allow the main wire from the Battery to continue to the Starter windings, and also suplies 12 volts directly to the coil whilst starting.

If there is no clicking then there is no power being supplied to the solenoid, or the solenoid is jammed.   There isnt a relay in the wiring, as the starter wire goes from the ignition switch, via the gear selector isolator switch on the steering column to the starter solenoid S terminal.   The R terminal is the one that goes to the coil.

Any electrical shop can recondition it, but if you have a Workshop Manual, you can do most, if not all the work yourself.   The Starters are easy to pull to pieces, but, when you remove the bakelite cap from the solenoid, you have to undo the S terminal nut and the bottom large nut as they stay with the solenoid.   Break those wires, and you are in strife.  

You can also recondition the battery cable contact be loosening the nut and turning the contact round 180 degrees to allow a fresh contact area to come into play.

Bruce,
The Tassie Devil(le),
60 CDV

Andrew 10642

Bruce,

As always, a wonderfully clear, concise explanation that makes it seem easy.  I may just go for rebuilding it.  Who knows, next week you can tell me how to convert a RHD Jaguar to LHD!!

Andrew

Mike #19861


 Bruce is correct. These starters are really pretty simple to overhaul. I dont think I have ever bought one. I rebuild them myself.

 If you decide not to, they are still easy to find at your local parts jobber. Yhis same basic starter was used for many years on many differant models. Just make sure that if you do buy one it is the heavy duty model. You can easily identify this by the extension on the solenoud to the fiela coil strap. Standars starters have the strap bolted directly the the solenoid.

  Mike

Denise 20352


  The only problem with overhauling the starter yourself is that you probably dont have a growler to check the armature for shorts.

-denise

Andrew 10642

OK, Ill bite. . .

Whats a growler?  Continuity tester?

Bob Hoffmann CLC #96

Ithink a growler is Densie when shes had a bad hearse day. LOL Bob

Mike #19861


 A growler is a device that puts a magnetic field araond the armature. You then take a strip of metal and run it over the armature and if there is a defect, it will make the strip vibrate, or growl.

 They are pretty uncommon these days. Armatures for the most part are pretty good. I have only seen one in several years and it was obviously shorted. It was on a starter I rebuilt for a 4.9. Burned field coils are far more common, and quite noticeable the minute you open it up by the smell.

 So, your chances of performing a successful rebuils are pretty good.

  Mike