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Dash removal of a 47

Started by Bob #13906, July 31, 2005, 11:14:26 PM

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Bob #13906

I would like to know about the removal of the dash of a 47 60s. I have a new wiring harness to install, and need to not only nreach the backs of the guages but now would be the time to re-grain the dash (if removal is easy enough ). Any other tips on harness replacment will help. Thanks Bob.

Bill Ingler CLC 7799

Hi Bob-Replacing the wiring harness and or the dash is not hard but is time consuming. It will take some patience working in tight spots, following the wiring diagram plus some help by a friend reading the instructions and helping pull wires. Not that it can`t be done by one person but 2 sure helps. Be prepared to spend lots of time on your back looking up and behind the dash at the wiring. I have rewired a 41-62 sedan as well as my 47-62 convert and both times I removed the front seat including the seat base. Find yourself a pad to lay over the underseat heaters a pillow for your head. Now you have room to stretch out and work. I would recommend that you study the dash harness diagram in the shop manual as well as the wiring diagram you got with your new harness before you even attempt to start the project. I always suggest laying the new harness out on the ground as it would be in the car. Take some time to understand how it is constructed,which part of the harness goes on the engine side, what stays under the dash. Then look at each wire on the new harness and the wiring diagram and understand which group of wires goes to what area of the dash. Understanding what goes where before you starting taking out the old will really help you when it comes time runing the new harness. Once you have the old harness out, then the dash can come out. I would suggest that you call me at 480-488-5853 in Scottsdale and I can go into more detail on the removal and installation of both the wiring and dash. Bill

Doug Houston

Ive had the instrument panel out of all my cars, except the two 38s. Those cars were the 4 41s, a 41 Olds and a 41 Chevrolet, all for refinish and regraining.

Those panels are bolted in place, with several screws under the windshield garnish molding. There is a sealer to keep water from getting behind the panel, so theyre stuck on a little bit. At the outer lower corners, there are bolts that fasten the panel to the cowl. There will be center brace from that dash panel to the firewall, and structural pieces at the steering column bracket. The mounting points will vary from year and model, but the above should help you get it out. The rest is to play it by ear for your particular car.

Ive heard of people regraining the dash in the car, but I shudder to imagine how they did it. Though, I must remember that mine were all done in decals that were available in the sixties, and are no longer to be had.

Russ Hobden #1235

Bob, I just finished re-doing the dash on my 1950.  To look at the job is intimidating but you will do just fine.  Follow the suggestions by the other responders above.  I have a suggestion that may be frowned on by some purists; while you have the dash out of the car, paint the inside flat-white.  Ive worked under the dash many times before and always felt like I was woring in a cave full of bats and stalagtites.  With a soft white background, it is almost enjoyable working in there. The white will not be noticeable from the outside, especially if you dont paint too close to the edges. Also, while you have everything out, do a mini-restoration job on all the gauges, switches, meters, radio, clock, etc. and make sure all the bulbs are good before you put them back in.

Have the schematic handy and tag your wires as you remove them.  The schematic will tell you what color is supposed to be there but you may not be able to identify it by that.  If your schematic reads like mine, a yellow wire with a single red tracer will be desinated as 14R or 14RT  meaning it is a 14 guage wire with a red tracer.  A solid red wire will be shown on the schematic simply as red.  A wire with a black and a red tracer will be shown as 16BXT, for 16 guage, black and red cross tracers. A wire with two green tracers running parallel to each other will be designated 16GPT meaning 16 guage, green parallel tracers.  Other color codes might be BRN (brown), BWT (black with white tracer), N (natural).  Others should be self explanatory.

I found it helpful to connect up the new wire harness one circuit at a time. Make sure it works properly before proceeding to the next one.  For instance, after you have connected up the back-up lights, check it out using test leads with alligator clips and a 6-volt lantern battery as your voltage source.  It will work good enough to light the bulbs.  Then do the same for the dome light circuit, the tail lights circuit, the stop lights circuit, etc.  Its no fun to have that new harness all hooked up and looking pretty and then find out when you turn the key on that the fuel gauge reads backwards, or the tail lights stay on all the time.  Been there, done that.  Good luck!

Barry Wheeler #2189

I can appreciate the soft glow from the white, but it still doesnt cure hogs hair neck-burn....
I also have a great more deal of difficulty standing on my neck these days, with my expanded waistline. Imagining that (ghastly) sight would be akin to what my wife must have envisioned when I was having a mid-life crisis and tried to get into one of the Healy midget cars at a local used car lot about twenty years ago, and almost didnt make it back out. She wasnt even with me and fell on the floor laughing when I told her about it. Boy, wives can be cruel.