News:

Due to a technical issue, some recently uploaded pictures have been lost. We are investigating why this happened but the issue has been resolved so that future uploads should be safe.  You can also Modify your post (MORE...) and re-upload the pictures in your post.

Main Menu

1962 Hydro-electric

Started by scott howard clc#22304, August 15, 2005, 10:21:37 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

scott howard clc#22304

I recently purchased a 1962 convertible, it is in great shape except for sitting in a garage since 1978.  I have the interior out & am ready to check the hydraulics on the top.  There is a click when the switch is pushed, however no movement. I had read somewhere the brake fluid gels. is this a possibilty or is it more likely the electric motor is stuck? There does not appear to be any leaks from the hoses. Can the motor be removed from the pump without draining the fluid?  Thanks for any and all help.  scott.

Bruce Reynolds # 18992

Gday Scott,

In a word, NO.

To access the motor, one has to remove the resevoir to access the screws that hold the pump housing to the body of the motor.

It is a messy job so best attempted with the unit sitting over a dish to contain the overflow.

I have never heard of brake fluid gelling before, but if there has been any leaking of air into the system, then it is quite possible that water has got in, and has started to rust.

Looks like you are going to have to delve into it further than you really wanted to.

Have you tried manually moving the top to see if there is any air in the cylinders?

Bruce,
The Tassie Devil(le),
60 CDV

Scott Howard #22304

Thanks Bruce,  I was trying to get past the mess. No I have not tried to move the top by hand. It does not appear to be leaking any where. Yet. I will try the manual mode to start with.

Bruce Reynolds # 18992

Scott,

You say that the motor is clicking when you hit the switch.

May I suggest that you have someone operate the switch whilst you are head first in the trunk, with your hand on the unit, and feel if the clicking is coming from within the motor.   This will indicate if the motor is trying to turn.

If it is, then it might just be a stuck, and I mean, really stuck, pump mechanism.

Whatever you do, dont strain the mechanism in attempting to raise it manually.

Have you checked the level of the fluid within the resevoir, via the filling plug on the end?

Many years ago I had a 55 Chev Convertible, and the operations are very similar, and it was a very easy job to strip the pump, replace a couple of o rings, and make everything work again.

When, and if, you disconnect the lines to the pump, have a mate in the trunk to catch all the fluid that comes from the lines, and manually work the top, to make sure that there is nothing wrong with the hydraulic cylinders.  

If there is any rusting on the rams, then you run a great risk of damaging the seals that retain the fluid within the cylinders.

Hope this helps.

Bruce,
The Tassie Devil(le),
60 CDV

Archie Calise

Scott,
Interesting.  Sounds like were in the same stage with our cars.  I too, have just started in on a 62 convertible.  Same top problem, condition, etc.  Maybe we could benefit from comparing notes.  Feel free to email me at acalise@cox.net, and Ill give you my phone number.  Id love to talk a little.
Thanks,
Archie CLC # 17647

scott #22034

Yes archie it does.  I had read your 2 other messages concerning this. I will get with you soon.  Scott.

scott #22304

Thanks again Bruce.  I am just getting started on the testing of this.  I did not want go in this heck bent for leather like we all used to in out younger days.  I will let you know how it works  out.  The pump overhaul did not look to bad just finding the correct o-rings,seals & gaskets.  Scott.

scott

Bruce, i finally got the pump/motor out of the car.  Brake fluid becomes a solid crystalline gold type of substance after it sits for 27 years.  The very bottom of the resevoir has an almost bakelite substance along with the gold crusties.  still need to get the back pump vein loose from the motor.  As much as I prefer to fix something as opposed to just replacing it I might be on the losing end of this battle.  That means cylinders too Im afraid.  Just some FYI dont let your hydraulic fluid stagnate.  Scott.

Bruce Reynolds # 18992

Onya Scott,

Good to see that you are succeeding in the saga of the non operating top.

There may be nothing wrong with the cylinders so just see if they move up and down by hand, with the hoses removed, and you could also try and free everything up with Brakekleen.

But, dont try paint thinners.

It is that long ago when I pulled my motor to pieces to rebuild it, that I cant remember how the pump actually attached to the armature shaft.

When you do get it all back together, I am sure that you can use Auto Trans Fluid in place of Brake Fluid, but there will be someone who might have a better idea on that matter.

Bruce,
The Tassie Devil(le),
60 CDV.