How to finish wood

[George]

I am completing the restoration of my 31 Lasalle, and wanted to get some opinions on finishing the wood floorboards as well as the exposed wood alongside the frame.  What is the general guidline for the original maintenance of these wood components - did they have to be oiled or coated some way on a regular basis?  Would it be better to just lightly sand and put a clear polyurethane finish on them to make them maintenace free or should they be preserved with a wood treatment oil of some kind?

Thank you for your help.....George

[JIM CLC # 15000]

10-26-05
George, I dont know anything about the wood in your car, however, I do know that you can get/buy pressured-treated wood and I think that includes plywood. What I have I constructed a deck and I used 2x4s and 2x12s and each had a tag that said it was warrantied, against rot for fifty (50) years while in contact with the ground. Which make me think it would be excellent for floor-boards. (I do know that any cut-surfaces have to be treated with their solution in order to maintain the warrenty.
It can be painted, dont know about varnish.
I guess what IM saying is that its a good product(if hiddened.)
Good Luck, Jim

[Densie 20352]

  Unfortunately I have a question rather than an answer.  How do you finish wood without getting dust in your work?  Ive tried doing it indoors and I still get dust in it.  The stain, I can get it out of, but then I brush Varathane on (because people have recommended that to me) and it comes out with dusty flecks all in it.  Do you need to set up a clean room?  Thin the varnish?

   Now watch someone say something about my housekeeping.  

-densie

[Andrew 10642]

Not sure what the original finish was, but let me put a plug in for oil finishes vs. polyurethanes.  Modern plastic finishes do have a fixed life, and are subject to wear, particularly on a car.  I know more about floor finish, but wood is wood.  Oil finishes are considered a penetrating finish, and require more frequent renewal, but the underlying finish does not require removal (if oil-base) before recoating. Also, an oil finish can be topcoated with a polyurethane, so if you decide you dont like it, you can go to the polyurethane.  Of course, you cant use an oil finish over a polyurethane one.

Linseed oil is not a great oil, but Tung oil is perhaps the most commonly used.  One of the best manufacturers is Waterlox, who makes a variety of gloss oil penetrating varnishes, even for marine use.  Go to Waterlox.com, I think

Hope that helps

[Porter 21919]

Densie,

There are always airbone particles flying through the air.

Your best bet is a clean environment and use a tack rag prior to finishing.

We used to spray a lot of lacquer with my woodworking business, a good clean up is always required, lacquer helps because it dries almost instantly, not that it is a superior waterproof finish.

As far as finishing interior wood on an old car I would seal it up with a good protective coating, polyurethane, spar varnish, etc.

Automotive clear urethane would be the most durable finish.

It is very rare for even a bodyshop with a state of the art downdraft paint booth to get away without colorsanding the paint.

I would imagine the auto manufacturers have a clean room type spraying facility so they dont have to buff the new paint to get rid of airborne particles.

Porter

[Ken Andersen # 21420]

George, have a look at my restoation on the photo gallery under 1920- 30 Cadillac.
Where the timber is not exposed, which is just about everywhere, I intend to apply a very thin bitumus paint. This will stop any build up of water or wet area that may promote rotting.  All other areas are sealed in polyurethane.  I also used a white beech, timber that is normally used in the construction of boat hulls, so it repels water quite well.