News:

Due to a technical issue, some recently uploaded pictures have been lost. We are investigating why this happened but the issue has been resolved so that future uploads should be safe.  You can also Modify your post (MORE...) and re-upload the pictures in your post.

Main Menu

59 CAD HEATER CORE

Started by ARMOND, March 02, 2006, 12:10:47 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

ARMOND

MY 59 CADY HEATER CORE IS LEAKINK AND I WOULD LIKE TO REMOVE AND REPAIR IT.ACCORDING TO MY SERVICE MANUAL I HAVE TO REMOVE TOP INSTRUMENT PANEL WHICH I THINK IS THE DASH BOARD.IT SEEMS TO BE A VERY DIFFICULT JOB.IS IT POSSIBLE TO REMOVE THE CORE WITHOUT REMOVING THE DASH.

Bruce Reynolds # 18992

Gday Armond,

I am afraid that if the Owners Manual says to remove the dash panel, then I am afraid that you will have to do that.   They dont really describe things that dont have to be performed when doing a task.

But, it isnt too hard to do.

Removing the Steering Wheel makes the task a lot simpler as well as the Dash top is a heavy mother, as the gauge panel comes out with it.

Bruce,
The Tassie Devil(le),
60 CDV

Fred Garfield 22310

When you know youre going to have to pull the dash and steering wheel, plan things so that youll only have to do it once. Identify everything behind there that needs fixing, everything youd like to upgrade. Then start collecting your parts.

For example, while the column is exposed, you could replace the turn signal cancelation ring. My guess is that yours probably doesnt work anymore because the cams are worn down to a nub after 47 years. See this task as an opportunity to clean, lube, re-wire, etc. When youre done, you essentially have a brand new car inside the dash and the steering column.

Fred Garfield 22310

Oops, the above post was intended for Armond.

Bruce Reynolds # 18992

Thats alright Fred,

I had to pull my dash to replace the speedo head, and eventually had to pull it a couple more times to repair the head that I repaired.

It is a bit of a bugger when the replacement head works okay on the bench, then siezes up 30 miles down the road.   The odometer gear stripped.

I found out that with the RHD conversion, they omitted a couple of clips so removing it is a piece of cake.

Next time, I will be doing a little bit more cleaning up of the mess behind there.

Bruce,
The Tassie Devil(le),
60 CDV

John #22631

Hey Guys,
While on the subject of the 59 dash...didnt some company reproduce and update the electrical board in the cluster?
My fuel guage like to go wacky once in a while. I rebuilt the sending unit and it worked great on the bench.
 If I reach up to where the connections are behind the cluster, it will change readings depending on where I apply pressure on the board. Any thoughts?
John

Fred Garfield 22310

Thats a strange one, John. Im imagining you cruising down the freeway, bent forward with your hand wedged behind the dash, watching the speedometer go nuts while all the other drivers are going equally crazy, LOL!

In all the years Ive been driving, I have yet to see a factory speedometer/sender that isnt seriously flawed right out of the box.

Fred Garfield 22310

Oops, that should read, sender/gauge, not speedometer/sender. And speedometers have their problems too.

The can put a man on the moon, but...

Fred Garfield 22310

Hey, Bruce, what about this idea? Instead of the conventional fuel sending unit, design one that relies on the weight of the fuel in the tank, a quantity that will not vary with turbulence.

Bruce Reynolds # 18992

Gday Fred,

The trouble with these modern cars is that the days are gone when one can simply use a stick and dip the tank.

Bruce,
The Tassie Devil(le),
60 CDV.

Fred Garfield 22310

True, true. But there may yet be hope.

Envision, if you will, a spring steel dipper that conforms to the curvature of a guide-fitted filler pipe. Its equipped with a miniaturized sensor/sender that detects fluid immersion at pre-set points along the dipper and electronically transmits the information to a digital display in the handle of the dipper. All we would need is a level surface for the car, just as we did in 1910.

John #22631

Bruce and Fred,
   The speedometer and temperature guage work perfectly. It appears that the fuel guage varies with either pressure on the circuit board or a change in voltage ie; the regulator kicks out when the battery has reached full charge or when the lights are turned on or the defroster/heater blower motor is turned on. Thats why I asked if there was an aftermarket circuit board being produced. I saw them on Ebay about a year or so ago, but didnt pay much attention then because I knew the copper strip on the sending unit was bad.
John

ARMOND

YOU ARE ABSOULUTELY RIGHT ABOUTH TURN SIGNAL CANCELATION RING. ANDI KNOW THAT FIBER INSULATION IS ALL FALLING APART AND ALL FLEX AIR DUCTS ARE TORN AND CRACKED AS WELL AS THE VACUME LINES. THANKS FOR ALL THE TIPS. I GUESS THE DASH IS COMMING DOWN.

Fred Garfield 22310

John, forgive me for getting sidetracked. The short answer is, I dont know.

Ed Mobley - CLC 19300

When I removed the dash on my 60 (to fix the heater core among other things) I pulled the dash forward and removed the four nuts holding in the speedo cluster - was much easier than removing all the wires.

Youll also have to remove the steering wheel as mentioned in other posts.  

Removing the heater core is a most unpleasant task - Id rather remove the tranny.

And your leak is most likely coming from the heater control valve - the outer rubber cup comes apart.  Old Air Products will rebuild them.  Even if yours is not leaking, give serious thought to replacing the rubber part.

Regards,

Ed

Marko Turkkila

I am rebuiding my -60 heater core and valve. The original valve have been missing until this day and now I am trying to figure out how the two control rods should be installed to the valve and where to put the heat conductive tube?
The shop manual does not help with this issue. Anyone can help me with this? Any instructive pictures are wellcome.

Diego Montefusco

Quote from: Ed Mobley - CLC 19300And your leak is most likely coming from the heater control valve - the outer rubber cup comes apart.  Old Air Products will rebuild them.  Even if yours is not leaking, give serious thought to replacing the rubber part.

hi ed!!

is this the heater control valve youre talking about?

http://web.tiscali.it/60cadillac/PICT0170.JPG TARGET=_blank>http://web.tiscali.it/60cadillac/PICT0170.JPG

I dont have any rubber cup. But maybe thats NOT the original valve, is it?

let me know

thanks!

diego

George UK

You dont need to take the dash cover off of the car.
   I have just replaced all the gaskets and cables on my 59 heater by reaching under the dash.
   Removing the glove box liner helps also. It might be neccessary to lift the dash pad if you wish to replace all the other items members have listed.
   The heater cover on my non air car has the screws under the hood along the fire wall.
   The hoses and cables are easily accessible by reaching under the dash.