turn signals in 1938?

[Rhino 21150]

I have a 5019. Someone added turn signals to the car. The taillights have had the lamp socket replaced with a double contact socket. In the front they pulled up the wire for the foglights (factory original?) and connected them to the signals. Looks stupid and I would rather have foglamps.
I bought a pair of bullet shaped turn signals at Carlisle. They are shaped exactly like the headlamp pods. They are even a similar color! They have something unusual for being that old. The leses are amber! I doubt they were intended for the car. I plan to mount them atop the fenders and put double filament halogen bulbs in them.
The question: Which models of Cadillac-La Salle had signals on the front in 1938? I have seen MANY of these cars with aftermarket lamps. Did the dealers do this or the owners? Im sure the La Salles did not have them. Is there a preferred signal to use?

[Bill Gauch]

My 6519 doesnt have any signals that I know of. It may have come with them as an option, but I think that I have only seen the aftermarket conversion to use them. I have read accounts of people adding the double filament bulb to the tail light and converting the amber fog lights to the front signals. I have actually seen the small parking lights replaced with turn signals. It looks quite strange to see little lollipop-like growths protruding out the inside of the nice smooth curve of the headlights.

[Barry M. Wheeler #2189]

NO 1938 Cadillac had factory turn signals. Many people use 1937 Buick park lamp pods, but most use either fog/driving lights mounted on the bumper. I would even rather use a round amber modern truck clearance lamp than drill holes in the fenders. You can take bumper mounted ones off, and most judges dont take off for neatly integrated bumper ones, as they are safety items. They certainly would for ones on the fender.

[Doug Houston]

Youll have to be careful about using high current bulbs on the turn signals. The flashers are current-sensitive. Thus, if a bulb burns out, the flasher pulses very fast, which signals you that something is out. Likewise, if more than rated current is drawn through the flasher, it will flash very slowly, or not at all.

You may want to check if there is a high-current rated flasher available for use with high current lamps. Beyond that, youd have to have a flasher operating a relay, and the relay contacts would tuern the lights on and off. So, it is possible, but not very direct.

You have to be similarly careful with stop light switches. Some of our members have had trouble with them burning out, using regular bulbs in tail lights.

[Rhino 21150]

All the wiring in this car is slowly being replaced with new. Im using sizes that will work with high current. I have a flasher that is electronic. It can handle 1-10 lamps of normal draw, about six halogens. Its ticking sound changes pitch with changing load. All my switches will have relays eventually, so Im not worried about the brake switch. There is plenty of room under the dash for a LOT of stuff.
Im not too worried about judging, but the point about using the signals attached to the bumper brackets sounds good. Much easier to wire as well. Fabricating a piece of metal with all the contractors tools I have accumulated should be easy. My bumper brackets have been powder coated, they look like porcelain. I can do that to my signal mountings too. I also plan to mount a chrome plated backup light I found in a box of old car parts to the rear bumper.
BTW, J. C. Whitney sells wire armor for use on the outside of cars. Put your own wire in the chrome cover. And its fairly cheap. Easier to find than old lamp parts with chrome.
Thanks for all the pointers and the definitive knowledge!