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69 Deville - Blower help!

Started by Kevin Wiles, July 12, 2006, 11:47:16 PM

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Kevin Wiles

Hi this is my 69 Cadillac Deville Station Wagon 49,000 original miles nice and unmolested.
As soon as I turn the key forward one click the blower motor starts at a very very low speed.  Even when the control is set to off or low or high or auto or anything!!!   Now if you feel the vents it is putting out no wind. I mean nothing.  I get under the dash, no wind coming out under there either.

When I get going down the road for a while my feet start getting very hot and it doesnt matter what the temp is set at or what setting ive got it on, it stays hot.

If this has been talked about before I apologize. I found one post that talked about the blower not working at all and some sort of way to bypass a sensor but it appears my blower is getting some power, so not sure what could be the problem here.  

Ive got a multi-meter if I need to take some readings and post my results here Im ready to do that.  Im just looking for some assistance with this matter and would greatly appreciate your help.

Denise 20352


 The blower is supposed to run on low, even when you turn the system off.  GM cars did that.

 Does it have the Climatron system, or just regular air conditioning?

-d

Kevin Wiles

Thanks for letting me know I didnt know that it was supposed to run all the time!  To answer your question yes, it has climate control.  
As stated in my previous post it runs at that same low speed no matter what the setting - auto, low, high.  

By the way i can hear a little click when i set it to the last two settings which i think are defrost type modes, then it just continues to run at that low speed.  (no air coming out of defrost vents either.)

denise 20352


  Duh...now that I think about it, Im not totally sure that the Climatron runs the low blower all of the time like conventional A/C does.

  The earliest book that I have is 75, so I dont know how much help this will be, but there is a tan wire that goes from the blower and then splits, one wire to the control head and one to the programmer.  You should get high blower when the def button is in, regardless of anything else that the system is doing.

  After checking the fuses, I would start by checking the motor itself.  Jumper it to the battery and make sure that it runss full speed.  Be sure to jumper both the hot and ground sides to positive and negative.  Then I would go back to the resistor block, which might be on the programmer, and to the control head, where the wire will be one of the large ones.  I would jumper that to the AC fuse and see again if the blower runs on high.  Then I would see if there was power to the control head, becaue Im fairly certain that there is a direct connection to the blower.

  Other things that go wrong with these...there is a switch on the passenger side head, usually buried under the alternator, that switches the ground to the blower off when the engine is cold.  These switches go bad.  You can jumper the ground terminal of the blower to a solid chassis ground, and isolate everything in the cold lockout circuit.

  The control heads get burnt as well...if you see some melting on the connector, There has been too much current drawn through it.  This could be caused by a failing blower motor, or by a short in the blower relay, which might be in or near the fusebox.  This is a common problem in the 70s cars...the relays have rivets in them that loosen up.

Hope this helps

-d

Rhino 21150

It sounds to me like the control unit isnt working right. The fan should run all the time, "Power Flow Through Ventilation" as the ads said. But the control changes fan speed AND temp settings. It sounds like the door that sends hot and cold air to the proper places isnt working. The control is all one molded mess, with vacuum and electric lines coming and going. If it is the same as Oldsmobile (probably) a vacuum leak in one of the door control hoses will also stop the fan from running at higher speeds, and blow hot air on your feet continuously.
Try to get to the control assembly and stare at it, looking for broken, bent, or burnt stuff. Cracks in the plastic vacuum control housing can sometimes be fixed with silicone rubber. The switches can sometimes be disassembled and repaired.
Of course, Denise may be right also.