Temp elec. wiring

[Bob 13906]

I have a 47 60S that I am working on. I have the front sheet metal off. The wirirng is shot & I have a new harness to replace it.( I dont want to install it until I steam clean the engine comp.) I have disconnected everything under the hood, but I want to set up a temp. harness to run & test the engine, also to move the car in & out of my shop. How can I just run it off the battery using the coil and distributor & starter? I dont need the generator or regulator, do I?   Thanks for the help, Bob.

[Rhino 21150]

You dont have to hook up the generator, although you will be using your charger every time you start the engine. Most chargers made recently will be toast if you leave them connected while starting. Careful!
You can hook up just the starter and the coil and it will run fine. If the coil uses a ballast resistor dont forget to hook it up too.
I did that with a 500cid sitting on a wooden stand (brave, confident or just stupid?). I hooked up the cooling but not the exhaust past the manifolds. ZOWIE!

[Bob 13906]

Thanks Rhino, Will you tell me what wires go where? Do I run the + to the coil, the - to the distrib? ( have a new 12v coil w/ an internal ballast resistor) I tried briefly to run the leads from the batt. to the starter w/ the spark plugs removed just to spin the engine to get everything moving and lubed up again. It moved a little but the starter wouldnt engage, it just spun internally with a high pitched humm. Thanks for the help, Bob

[Rhino 21150]

1947 is still 6 volt and positive ground, isnt it? If so you will need a 6 volt coil or it will never start and run properly. Ground doesnt really matter, though. You will need to run a wire from the coil screw terminal to the distributor screw terminal. I think the cars coil is a built in ballast, Ive never found one on my 38, which has almost the same engine, less hp. The battery should be connected to ground the way it was before you took off the wires. The other battery wire goes to the large bolt on the solenoid farthest from the starter case (called the battery terminal). The other bolt has a strap going into the starter.
Does your solenoid have another  box on top of it? If so it has a small wire that goes to the engine and another that goes to the solenoid. If you put a jumper on the wire going to the solenoid to the battery terminal on the solenoid, the solenoid should pull in and engage the starter, which should begin cranking the engine. If you dont have the small box ( a relay to prevent engaging the starter when the engine is running) there is a small terminal farthest from the starter you jump to.
Now for the physically difficult part. The hot wire for the ignition coil is inside armor! Fret not! Run a rather long wire (18 or 16 gauge should do) from the battery terminal on the solenoid to either of the exposed twerminals on the back of the ignition switch. Disconnect any other wires on the switch. Turn the key on. The engine should run.
The generator should be disconnected, remove all wires and make sure you can put them back correctly.
When the solenoid pulls in and the starter gets going it will make a lot of noise that you wouldnt notice sitting behind the wheel. You WILL be startled! Dont worry, all is well. If my description is too hard to follow, shoot me another message.
BTW, you will not be charging the battery while running like this. You will have to charge it every time you start it.

[Rhino 21150]

I will be netless for the next few days. I will check e-mail again on Sunday. I have to go visit my dad and his 40-5219!

[Dave Leger CLC#19256]

Just a note to say that 47 is 6 volt, but negative ground, not positive.

Dave