News:

Reminder to CLC members, please make sure that your CLC number is stored in the relevant field in your forum profile. This is important for the upcoming change to the Forums access, More information can be found at the top of the General Discussion forum. To view or edit your profile details, click on your username, at the top of any forum page. Your username only appears when you are signed in.

Main Menu

Rebuilding Hydraulic lift cylinders

Started by Trent Mitchell, September 26, 2006, 01:25:03 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Trent Mitchell

I have 1961 Eldorado that is nearing the end of its restoration and one of the things I want to do while the interior and convertible top is torn down is to rebuild the hydro-lectric motor, and the lift cylinders.

Does anyone know if the lift cylinders are rebuildable? I imagine the only part on the lift cylinders that would need replacing is the shaft seal. But how do I get it out, and can I even find a replacement seal?? My shop manual only states how to remove and replace the rams, but nothing about replacing seals.

Anyone ventured into this?

Thanks all!

Trent

Trent Mitchell

I am beginning to think that these are just replaced as a unit and are not rebuildable.

-Trent

Bruce Reynolds # 18992

Gday Trent,

As with most things built by humans, anything can be rebuilt, reconditioned, or just replaced.

If yours arent rusted on the shafts, then they can be rebuilt, but go to a Hydraulics Engineer as they can cut the cylinder, replace the seals and re-hone everything, then weld it back together, the same way when it was builr.

BUT, there will be a cost involved, so you just have to weigh up the cost of it all.

I had a leaking Power Steering cylinder seal on a 59 Thunderbird I am restoring, and it was a simple seal that required replacing, or so I thought.

Well, after 3 hours work by my Hydraulic shop, and $221.00 later, it was fixed.   Yes, I know I could have probably replaced the seal, but it was the fact that the internal bush was work out that required the splitting and rebushing by building it up, but it was cheaper to do that as finding a replacement cylinder, and getting it to Tasmania, without having to send my core back, it was cheaper to get it fixed here.   Now, the seal is a modern one, and I forsee that it will never need replacing again.

I could have left it as it was, but in your case, a loak in that area will drip all over the interior of the car, whereas a drip from a power steering ram will drip onto the ground, but could also cause an accident by leaving a trail of oil on the road surface.

Bruce,
The Tassie Devil(le),
60 CDV.