Remanufactured vs. original

[Doug Watson]

Into rebuild on 1964 Superior hearse.  Mechanic says I need water pump, fuel pump, a/c compressor etc.  Should I buy parts from an auto store or have these re-built so they stay original to my car. If I rebuild, where do I look to find folks to rebuild these?  This webiste helped me find a guy to rebuild my harmonic balancer, so hopefully you all can impart more of your knowledge and wisdom to this newbie. Also, they cant pull my back wheels off because they dont have the correct puller...so trying to borrow one.  Are they that rare?  I live in a town of 500 thousand.

[Mike Josephic #3877]

Contact Aurthur Gould.  He has an ad in Hemmings every month and has been rebuilding fuel & water pumps for 20+ years.  Ive used his services and have been very satisfied.  As far as buying rebuilt parts -- the quality of what you get can vary from junk to very good -- depending on the company who rebuilt them.

[JIM CLC # 15000]

10-19-06
Doug, As far as rebuilt VS original, A good rebuilt is just as good as an original. (IF A NEW REBUILT KIT IS USED)
As for removing the rear hubs and brake drums, If there is a nut on the end of the axle, Expect nothing but the correct hub-puller to remove it. If there is no nut on the end of the axle, just be sure that the brakes adjestment is backed-off and you should be able to remove it by hand. In any case, nut or no nut, be sure that the brake adjustment is backed-off
HTH
Good Luck,JIM

[Chris McBride]

doug

Ill check my shop manual later to see if theres info re: the rear brake drums on a commercial chassis.  I know that the regular 64s do not require a puller BUT perhaps a CC is different.  My manual is at a shop with my car so Ill re-post later.

Jims procedure is standard for cars that dont require a puller.  Also, rust sometimes builds up on the lip outside of the drum or the shoes may have tried to become one with the drums.  A big hammer (and rarely a heating torch) generally suffices after one ascertains that the adjuster is loosened.  

Again, you can try posting your inquiry at the

http://groups.msn.com/196364CadillacCommunity TARGET=_blank>http://groups.msn.com/196364CadillacCommunity

Several CC owners post regularly at that group.

Youll probably want to acquire a shop manual for your restoration - theyre available in reproductions which are somewhat murky but still have invaluable information.  You can  sometimes still find an original still in good condition.  Theyre comparatively inexpensive (genrally in the range of25 to 50 bucks).

I dont have an opinion on new versus rebuilt but that the water pump is a sufficient PITA that I would get the highest quality new pump or the best possible rebuilt.  The o-rings which seal the metal pipe by-pass are a consistent problem area for most except those rare three-handed installers.  Ill send you a word document with a series of posts on that so as to minimize any problems with that area.  You also want to take extra care with any of the smaller water pump bolts which bolt directly into the front cover housing.  The timing cover is aluminum and, if at all possible, you really dont want broken bolts in that area.

HTH

Chris

[Jerry]

Doug,

I know that the 1959 through 1961 commercial cars (68 series) do have a different rear axle and gear ratio.  The 59s have rear leaf springs - it is likely that the64 would be the same setup.

To remove the brake drums, you need a 5-jaw puller the type that would be used on a truck hub.  Using a 5-jaw will prevent the brake drum from being damaged - make sure that the mechanic is careful the drums are hard to find.