advice on resto

[john clc#23075]

hi all.i have a 39 series 75 coupe.it needs restored but i want to drive and have family fun with it.but some say restore it now dont wait.fun or work & fun?

[Bruce Reynolds # 18992]

Congratulations John,

If you can drive it as you are restoring it, then you will have fun, but it will never get finished completely.

But, if you restore it before driving it, you will probably be too old to drive it when it is finished, or it will be too good to drive.

I say have fun.

Bruce,
The Tassie Devil(le),
60 CDV

[Art Woody]

What Bruce said.

[Jerry]

Dont disassemble the car unless you are totally committed to spend the time and money to get the job completed.  It will take you at least twice as long as you anticipate and cost three times (or more) for parts, labor, supplies, etc.  

Too many people take their cars apart start a huge restoration project and then lose interest.  

No matter what you do, take as many pictures as possible starting now.  Even if you decide to just drive and enjoy your car as it is and perform repairs, restoration projects as you go along.

Merry Christmas!

[Barry M. Wheeler #2189]

I hope that 2007 is the year to paint the 41-6019S. I dont intend to spend near what the going rate is, (hopefully) and want to have all the trim and ancilliary items ready to go back on the car as it is re-assembled. The only thing not ready is that pesky RH "washboard." I have two, just need to send them off to a stainless expert.

But the others are right. Dont take the car apart until you are ready to go the whole route. Enjoy the car while you can. I just helped sell a 1940 75 coupe. Indiana lost a great car and St. Louis gained one...

[johnclc#23075]

sounds like solid advice.fun it is.thanks to all.                                                              Merry Cristmas and have a great New Year.

[Bill Gauch]

One more addendum, you need 3-5 times the volume of the car in order to fully disassemble and restore it. I myself am currently playing with fire by just having my removed front fenders of my 38 sitting directly on the concrete floor of my garage. I am envisioning lots of rust when I finally get around to putting some sort of vapor barrier under them. Its weird how 1-2 weeks turn into 6 months.

[Mike Josephic #3877]

Its really strange how a 2 year project can turn into 10.
Ive been there -- first started out to do a "driver" then in mid stream decided on a "show car".  If that happens, the amount of Dollars you counted on spending can double or triple. For your own sake, decide early on what you want this car for (concourse, show, driver, etc.) and set a limit on your expenses. These thing can get out of hand fast. Sometimes its a hard choice to make but you need to think it over.  Regards, Mike

[Trent]

Bruce

I just bought a 1960 Coupe DeVille, an hoped you might know whether the engine number in the driver door jamb is the VIN # too?  How do I de-code to know original color, etc?

Thanks,
Trent

[Bruce Reynolds # 18992]

Gday Trent,

Congratulations on your purchase.

The only numbers that are on the Drivers Door Jamb is what is on the "Service" or Lubrication Tag.   This is screwed to the Jamb, and isnt hard to take off and put onto another vehicle, or simply break and become lost.

The only places for the "VIN" Number, or Chassis and Engine Numbers in the case of vehicles made before the late 60s is what is stamped on the ID Plate on the Firewall, Engine Block and Chassis.   VIN Numbers only came into being as a result of Federal Government Regulations to standardise vehicle itentification.

In the case of the 60, the Engine Number is stamped on the back of the Block, on the Left Side of the Bellhousing flange, just to the rear of the Left Cylinder Head, and also along the bottom of the Block Skirt, just above the Sump Rail, and the Chassis Number is stamped into the top of the Chassis, in front of the Left Suspension conglomerate, and the Radiator Support crossmember.

It may take a bit of grease and grime removal to see them, but they are there.

The ID Plate on top of the Firewall has a series of numbers and letters pressed in a raised type, and these need de-coding via the Workshop Manual.   You do have a Workshop Manual?   If you dont, then I would advise you getting one, as they are a an invaluable source of information.

Hope this helps,

Bruce,
The Tassie Devil(le),
60 CDV