News:

Due to a technical issue, some recently uploaded pictures have been lost. We are investigating why this happened but the issue has been resolved so that future uploads should be safe.  You can also Modify your post (MORE...) and re-upload the pictures in your post.

Main Menu

Rebuilding a flathead water pump and a paint ?

Started by Bill Gauch, January 26, 2007, 01:01:49 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Bill Gauch

I am motivated to do something to further the restoration of my car. I dont have a lot of the expensive tools, so I was looking to do something fairly basic. I was thinking that rebuilding the water pump would be a good task. I was planning on ordering the kit from Coopers (along with some other stuff). Will the kit have all the replaceable parts included? Also, what is the basic procedure for rebuilding it? Do I need to have it blasted (bead, alum. ox., etc.) or will chemical stripping and a wire wheel be sufficient for paint adhesion? I am pretty sure I remember reading that it should be the Hirsch green. Any tips on painting (Primer, spray can, brush, dip)? Anything else I need to know? Sorry for the questions... I just want to make sure I only have to rebuild this once before I use it.

One last question, are the water necks supposed to be green as well? The same tips question from above applies to this too.

Thanks.

Anthony Amman

Bill,

I have not personally rebuilt the water pump for my flat head, I can advise you on refinishing its paint.  If you have your shop manual, you will find an exploded diagram and a procedure for rebuilding your pump.  A rebuild kit should come with instructions.

The pump and the water inlets are all painted the same shade of Cadillac green, as well as the block, oil pan,heads, etc.
 
The first thing to accomplish is to thoroughly degrease the pump to remove any oily, greasy crud.  Even if you sand or bead blast the housing, its tough to impossible to get greasy crud off using this method.  You can use a spray can degreaser and once things are clean, follow up with a blasting media or use paint stripper and then a wire wheel to remove any surface rust.  If you have a bench vise, chuck up a wire wheel in a variable speed drill and clamp the drill lightly in the vise and proceed, or clamp the pump in the vise and work it that way.  If you have a Dremel tool, use the small wire wheel attachments that come with it for a more controlled approach.  

Once you have a clean surface, free of all paint and rust, clean off on more time with lacquer thinner, allow it to flash off, and then prime immediately with a Rustoleum red oxide primer.  When the primer has dried through, apply the Cad. green, preferably by spraying it on, allow to dry, reassemble the guts of the pump, lube it, and re-install.

Your local automotive machine shop will have beadblasting equip. and may be very reasonable in price to clean up such a small item.  It cant hurt to check.

Hope this helps you out.

Tony

Bill Gauch

Is the Bill Hirsch paint compatible with Rustoleum primer? I always heard that pretty much all Rustoleum products were bad for anything automotive other than quick cheap protection that will later be removed when the real coating is going to be applied.

Bill Ingler CLC 7799

If you rebuild your own pump one piece of equipment I recommend you have or have access too is an arbor press to press on or off the pulley. Many a water pump pulley has been ruined by the use of a hammer and punch to try to take off or put back on the pulley.The pulley many times gets distorted by hammer and punch causing all sorts of belt problems.I personally will pay a little more for someone to do my rebuild using one of the new modern type seals which in most cases requires some machining of the pump housing. I use the Flying Dutchman in Oregon for all my pump rebuilds. He uses a new type seal which requires you grease only one time a year and with plain old chassis grease.When you do grease a pump I recommend you stay away from an air pressure grease pump. Use a hand pump where you feel the resistance build up as you pump. When the resistence is such that you can`t pump with ease, stop. Any forcing of grease into the water pump and you can blow by a seal. I use the paint from Bill Hirsh but then I take the quart to a local auto paint supply store and get them to make up the paint into some spray cans. Sure is easier to use and looks a lot better.

Anthony Amman #15293

Bill,

Rustoleum works fine for items such as the one your proposing.  The engine enamel will adhere just fine to the primer.  If you are uncomfortable using this brand, use Dupli-Color.  You can purchase it at most Auto Body suppliers.  PPG which makes Ditzler is another option, also at your local supplier.
 
Tony