57 CDV Dash Removal

[John Maglia #23063]

I am attemping to refresh a 57 Coupe de Ville with AC. Can anyone give me any tips on the best way to remove the dash so I can send it off to Just Dashes for repair?

This project was only intended to be a fresh paint job and engine cleaning but has turned into new paint, chrome, stainless, front clip removal, etc, etc, etc. Next time Ill be a little more careful when buying a car on eBay from a shyster in Florida who specializes in Gloss-Black Engine Compartment Restorations. Live and learn.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

John          

[Geoff Newcombe #4719]

Just one more instance underlining the need to ALWAYS inspect a car for sale (on ebay or elsewhere, no matter how glib the seller or how pretty the pictures) personally, or by using ebays $99 inspection service, or by asking a friend or C&LC member here.  I am sure (as I have said before) that many here (including myself) would be willing to inspect a car another member is considering for purchase for direct expenses only that might be within a few hours drive or less.  
The only cars I would decline to look at here in Florida would be those offered on ebay by luvdg.  ANYONE buying from that seller  is strictly on their own, and likely foolish to do so!!!

[Ralph Messina CLC 4937]

Hi John,

I working from memory so some of my comments may be a bit off. Remove the screws and metal trim from the “A’ pillars and the lower front of the windshield. Remove the screws and pull the window switches out and disconnect them from the harness. Remove the screws from the upper part of the gauge cluster. Remove the screws from the under side of the padded dash that run along the radio / clock section. There is one hidden screw located on the passenger side face of the padded top where the top rolls around and down near the radio controls. Gently pry that section up and you should see the screw head. There may also be screws on the bezel containing the light switch.  Lower the steering column (two bolts where the column meets the dash) being careful not to break the gear selector needle. At this point you should be able to lift the top and angle it out if your car does not have AC.  If it does, you have to remove the two eccentric bolts underneath the dash at the extreme right and left sides. This allows the lower dash to hang down a few inches so that the AC plenum, attached to the underside of the top, clears the dash.

You’d do well to invest in a shop manual as these cars had a fair number of hidden connectors.

HTH,
Ralph

[John Maglia #23063]

Bingo! Seems like he has already developed a reputation in our club. The only nice thing I can say about old Marvin is he loves dogs. Believe me, the next eBay auto purchase will only be after my or a club members inspection.  Thanks

[John Maglia #23063]

Many thanks Ralph. Your explanation is much appreciated. A shop manual is also in the works.

Best regards,

John Maglia

[Barry M. Wheeler #2189]

Ralph, I think the other (LH) side of the speedometer arch had a small screw as well. Its been a long time since I had my convertible...

[Dennis]

Question:
Does the entire dash board need to be removed?  I thought the top half of the dash board could be removed for access to the dash-guts and the top half sent for recovering. I could be (probably) wrong.

Id like to see a picture or two of the final product.  

Dennis

[Ralph Messina CLC 4937]

Dennis,

You are correct that the top, padded section of the dash is what were talking about. It is removable for access to the inside of the dash. It was kinda assumed in the discussion.

Ralph

[mike baillargeon #15848]

It was a 1957 Coupe. A parts car so I could be a little rougher than you should be in pulling things apart.

I removed all the screws Ralph said above, but I didnt have to drop the steering column. I did have to pull the speedo cluster forward enough to reach my hand in to disconect the autotronic eye at it plug.

The adhesive the factory used on the dash pad got on top of the lower dash above the radio going to the passenger side of the car. A putty knife gently split the two.

The dash pad comes out now, be careful each of the ends where the window swithes were, the metal is thin and could be weak from rust.

Just Dashes does a great job, they will also give you a strip of material about 2 X 3 ft long for the area above the radio to the passenger side you use the putty knife on. Its a factory nice finishing touch, it glues onto the lower dash panel thats still in the car.

Waiting to get the dash pad back from Just Dashes gives you time to take a hard look at all the things under that pad.

Radio, heater ductwork, headlight switch, light bulbs in the cluster, lube up the vent cables & check for binding etc...

Good Luck!!!

Mike B in Ct

[John Maglia #23063]

My confidence is built. I also have a parts car that I will practice on. Before installation, I will change all the dash lights and lube the speedo as recommended.

Joining the CLC is the best investment I ever made.

Thanks to all for your great advice and continued support.

John  

[bob Haight]

I removed mine last summer for recovering.  Great access to the wiper pulleys, defroster/ac hoses etc.  I found it easier to pull the glove compartment liner and instrument cluster for better access.  If you have factory AC like mine, you will need the access - its a b*tch.  After you take the dash top out, I made a couple of aluminum stock braces and ran them from the mounting holes near the base of the windshield back in an X to the top bolt holes of the instrument cluster, thus allowing me to drive the car with the instrument cluster braced and operable while I recovered the dash.
Good luck