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1940 LaSalle rear main seal replacement

Started by 5219guy, December 09, 2007, 12:53:34 AM

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5219guy

Is there such thing as a rubber seal for the 322 engine rear main or am I doomed again to the original rope type??

Thanks
Roland # 8725
Roland Bleitz 5219

The Tassie Devil(le)

G'day Roland,

The Rope Seal will work if installed correctly.

The seal bust be forced all the way into the groove, and then cut off slightly proud so that when the cap is installed, the ends of the seal are forced together, without getting caught between the mating surfaces of the Main Cap to create an unwanted clearance problem.   Plus, a very slight smear of RVT sealant between the Cap and the Block will ensure that no oil can leak out under the cap.

The secret is to insert the "Rope" as per Factory Instructions, using a mandrel to seat it correctly.    I piece of round timber can do the job satisfactorily, and it gives you a surface to trim off the excess.

But also to make sure that the Crankshaft journal where the seal runs is totally clean and the return passages are also totally clear so that the oil can escape back into the sump, and not be able to be forced out to the outside.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

baxterculver

Quote from: 5219guy on December 09, 2007, 12:53:34 AM
Is there such thing as a rubber seal for the 322 engine rear main or am I doomed again to the original rope type??

Thanks
Roland # 8725
Mercedes makes a seal (#001 997 12 41) that seems to be of a composite material and is tough as nails.  It has been used in flathead engines with much success by many.  I installed it when I rebuilt my flathead and helped a friend install it in his engine without removing the crank.  Both engines are sealed tight!  Follow the instructions for fitting the rope seal, leave a little of it "proud" to compress it and fill the side grooves (where the cork is supposed to go) with an aerosol silicone filler and you should be go to go.
baxter culver clc#17184

Fred Zwicker #23106


[/quote]
Mercedes makes a seal (#001 997 12 41) that seems to be of a composite material and is tough as nails.  It has been used in flathead engines with much success by many.  I installed it when I rebuilt my flathead and helped a friend install it in his engine without removing the crank.  Both engines are sealed tight!  Follow the instructions for fitting the rope seal, leave a little of it "proud" to compress it and fill the side grooves (where the cork is supposed to go) with an aerosol silicone filler and you should be go to go.
[/quote]

Ditto on the Mercedes Seal # 001 997 12 41.  I had the engine for my 1939 LaSalle rebuilt by Shepard's Automotive in Akron and he ordered and installed the Mercedes Seal for this rebuilding.  However this was done when engine was apart.   It fit nicely and best of all - no leaks!   Attached is a picture of my engine after rebuilding.

Fred
1930 LaSalle Convertible Coupe, CCCA Senior
1939 LaSalle 2-Dr. Conv.  CLC Senior in 2008
1940 Cadillac Series 75 4 Dr. Convertible
1947 Cadillac Series 62 Convertible Coupe
1948 Cadillac Convertible - modified by Holly (driver)
1966 Cadillac DeVille Conv. Restored - Red
See Pictures at www.tpcarcollection.com

The Tassie Devil(le)

Ah ha, I knew there was a good answer out there.   I forgot about the "Import" seal.

Thanks,

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

baxterculver

Quote from: Fred Zwicker #23106 on December 09, 2007, 09:53:07 PM

Mercedes makes a seal (#001 997 12 41) that seems to be of a composite material and is tough as nails.  It has been used in flathead engines with much success by many.  I installed it when I rebuilt my flathead and helped a friend install it in his engine without removing the crank.  Both engines are sealed tight!  Follow the instructions for fitting the rope seal, leave a little of it "proud" to compress it and fill the side grooves (where the cork is supposed to go) with an aerosol silicone filler and you should be go to go.
[/quote]

Ditto on the Mercedes Seal # 001 997 12 41.  I had the engine for my 1939 LaSalle rebuilt by Shepard's Automotive in Akron and he ordered and installed the Mercedes Seal for this rebuilding.  However this was done when engine was apart.   It fit nicely and best of all - no leaks!   Attached is a picture of my engine after rebuilding.

Fred
[/quote]
Fred,
I didn't mean to imply that the seal isn't best installed with the crank out of the engine.  That method is far superior and much more likely to be leakproof.  I mentioned that I had assisted a friend install the Mercedes seal in his flathead without removing the crank only to relate that it can be done.  We did it!  He didn't want to pull the engine out of the car but the rope seal had long since left it's job.  We loosened the center main cap to allow the crank to "sag" a bit, then pulled the new seal through the goove, using an inexpensive NAPA tool,  and seated it by pressing upward on the crankshaft.  The seal is inexpensive enough so he went for it thinking that the worst that could happen would be a continuing leaky rear main seal--at least until he could pull the engine out.  However, it works just fine.  He also replaced the rod and main bearings, stuffed in some new rings and was back on the road.  He drove the car (a '39 60S) from California to Colorado for the CLC Driving Tour and everything underneath stayed dry and oil free.  Those old flatheads were built to keep working and be easily maintained.
baxter culver clc#17184

5219guy

Thanks for all the imput.
This has been a great help.
A friendly great bunch of fellow enthusiasts.

Roland---
Roland Bleitz 5219

Steve Matthews

I'm about to install one of these Mercedes seals in the flathead on my '41 60S - can anyone tell me if they should be installed dry or soaked in oil as the originals were?

Thanks-

Steve

Jeff Kay CLC#7630

You do not need to soak it in oil.  I just had this replaced in my flathead engine.  It is a pain to do with the engine in the car, but it can be done.  Just have patience.  Also, Napa Auto Parts sells a kit which really helps with the installation.

Here's the info on the kit:



Rear Main Seal Tool

Click on image to see enlarged view

 
  Item#: SER492

Price: $34.09
tax and shipping not included

Disclaimer: The stated price may vary from the in store price and may change at anytime.


Attributes:
Oil Seal Type:Wick & Neoprene Type Seals
Tool Grip Type:Chinese Finger-Type Grip
Additional Contents:Wick Seal Remover
Installer
Guide Funnels
Pusher
Offset Trimmer & Neoprene Seal Punches