Started by Eldosaurus Rex, October 31, 2016, 01:10:18 PM
Quote from: 76eldo on October 31, 2016, 01:25:07 PMOn a 60 there is a 13/16 hex bolt on the front of the crank. I am not sure what the actual thread size would be. You have no bolt in there at all? Not sure what's correct for the 64.PS... For cranking over with no plugs in the engine it should be fine but not recommended for cranking the engine with plugs in @ full compression.Brian
Quote from: cadillactim on October 31, 2016, 04:23:56 PMThe cork is simply to keep dust out of the hole. Just pull it out. The balancer is just pressed on the crank, there is no bolt like Chevys. To remove just use a heavy duty puller (3 bolt kind) and remove three of the crank pulley bolts for the puller. There is a threaded hole in the crank to use a hub installer for reassembly.But if all you are doing us getting TDC, you don.t need to remove the balancer. Just get some gloves and turn the crank pulley a little at a time using both hands. Get it close withe starter bumps, then finish it by hand. If you don't want to use the timing marks, remove the #1 spark plug and put a screwdriver in the hole (AFTER you are done with the starter bumps). Watch the screwdriver rise while turning crank pulley by hand as it reaches TDC.Tim
Quote from: Scot Minesinger on October 31, 2016, 08:03:13 PMThe threads should be 9/16 fine. I bought a threaded rod from Fastenal and some nuts and washers, made my own puller and presser back on tool. Here is a picture of the tool. I drilled a hole thru nut and threaded rod to put a pin thru it. One wrench keeps threaded rod from turning while the other wrench turns the nut to pull off or press on the balancer. Very easy job with correct tool.Tim, how do you know if it is at top of exhaust stroke or top of compression stroke with screw driver in spark plug hole method? Would not having the timing marks be good enough to be at top dead center?
Quote from: chrisntam on October 31, 2016, 09:16:16 PMYou look like Bono (lead singer/U2) with those glasses on.
Quote from: savemy67 on October 31, 2016, 09:48:05 PMHello Leo,I recently had a need to turn my 67's 429 by hand. I bought a 9/16 - 18 x 2" hex cap screw (fine thread), and a couple of 9/16 flat washers. I removed the cork from the front of the crankshaft by pulling it out by hand. If the cork has been in the crank for a long time, it may or may not come out in one piece. You may need a small screwdriver or pick. If it crumbles, be sure to remove all the bits. I put some anti-seize on the hex cap screw and screwed it and the washers into the front of the crank using a 1/2 inch drive deep socket and a breaker bar. I had to do this from under the car as all the belt driven accessories blocked access from above. The car was on the ground. You could get more clearance if your raise the car's front end.Since I work by myself, I could not turn the engine and feel the compression pressure at the number one spark plug hole at the same time. You can remove the driver's side valve cover and watch the position of the number one cylinder intake and exhaust valve rocker arms. As the timing marks align, you can observe if the number one cylinder is on its compression stroke - no valve movement - or on its exhaust stroke - exhaust valve movement.There is no need to remove the pulley or the balancer to rotate the engine by hand. Good luck.Christopher Winter
Quote from: Eldosaurus Rex on November 01, 2016, 09:49:18 AMAs I stated in my first post, plugs were removed. Not a chance of hand turning with 10.5:1 ratio! Well, maybe if I could've gotten a better grip! Leo
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