Recent posts

#1

Want To Buy - Parts / Re: 1975 power trunk pull down...

Last post by "Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364 - Today at 04:06:23 PM

The trunk pull down devices are intended to minimize the shock to the locking mechanisms and provide a positive trunk seal.
Greg Surfas

#2

General Discussion / Re: Just when you think it can...

Last post by bcroe - Today at 03:38:30 PM

The American automobile industry of the 20th century made this country! THE single greatest catalyst of our nations strength and contributor of an
admired lifestyle. The futuristic and wondrous visions of this century proved realistic. The environmental and safety concerns were met as reasonable and beneficial. The CAFE standards started a noticeable decline,  devastating to Cadillac. 

The 20th century industry is truely amazing.  But perhaps what
made it possible was the base developed a century earlier, based
on the high pressure steam engine, the telegraph, the 4-4-0 loco
railroads, and the industrial revolution.  Bruce Roe

#3

For Sale - Cars / Re: 1947 Cadillac Convertible

Last post by Cadillac Jack 82 - Today at 03:33:01 PM

Shes really pretty.  If I had the space/available funds we might be talking.

#4

Want To Buy - Parts / Re: 1975 power trunk pull down...

Last post by Lexi - Today at 02:32:28 PM

Although my Cadillac is from the 1950s, I mention the following for what its worth. My Cadillac also has a trunk pull down motor. Seems that every 5 years or so it stops working or works sporatically. Once I also had to drive home from a show with the trunk lid loose. What I found is that the unit depends on the car chassis for the electrical ground. Did it again this summer and I was about to install my spare rebuilt unit, but instead tried cleaning all grounds first. By removing the unit and cleaning all of the points of contact and bolts as well, the problem was fixed. At least in my case, it did not take much to impact the grounding of this unit. Never saw the point in having a motor to pull down your trunk lid for the sake of an inch. Are people that lazy? What was GM thinking? Wish my car did not have it, but at least the red open trunk dash warning light looks cool when lit. Clay/Lexi

#5

General Discussion / 59 lower dash

Last post by Paul - Today at 02:24:40 PM

Hello! Does anyone know what the lower dashboard color is based on? I didn't see this as a choice on the ordering sheet. How was the lower dash color determined? Is it always the body color? I've seen many examples where the lower dash is white and the upper dash is the body color. Does anyone know the correct matrix or way to determine the lower dash color?

#6

For Sale - Cars / Re: 1947 Cadillac Convertible

Last post by Paul Tesone - Today at 01:27:08 PM

While I was here ,I thought I would add some photos for those who might be interested . Paul Tesone CLC#6876

#7

Restoration Corner / Re: Blue Mistress (55 FW)

Last post by Caddy Wizard - Today at 01:25:35 PM

I have given the painter until Oct 21 to finish.  Otherwise I am taking the car back as is and painting it myself.  Enough is enough.

Shortly after I sent him this latest message (ultimatum), he sent me some new progress pictures...

#8

Technical / Authenticity / Re: Shimming rear main seal 19...

Last post by Caddy Wizard - Today at 01:20:20 PM

After 50 miles my 1955 rebuilt 331 engine the rear main has started to leak. The mechanic has used three different seals to no avail. I have searched on the forum and there is threads that the use of shims have helped. My question is what material (brass?) and size (.05 .010 .015) thickness and do you put it on the top and bottom of the seal?

Thanks,
Bob Kielar

I had a new neoprene seal start to leak after about 50 miles, despite very careful installation.  I saw on the Forum that some speculate that the groove is not always the same dimension, while the seal is a precision part, so in some instances one might need to shim the seal to get a good fit on the crank journal.

To shim the seal, I took some thin gasket paper (I think it was .032" thick) and cut 2 strips the width of the channel and almost the length of each seal half.  I slipped one in the block and slid the seal half in (the seal then is between the crank journal and the paper shim).  It should still slide in without binding and requiring much force to get it to go in.  Then I installed the shim and the other seal half in the lower cap and installed the cap.  I put just a tiny dab of silicone sealant on the ends of the seal halves where they mate to each other.  I also indexed the seal halves so that the parting line between the two seal halves doesn't coincide with the parting line of the lower cap to the block.

So far, it is sealing well.

#9

For Sale - Cars / Re: 1965 deville convertible

Last post by Cadman-iac - Today at 12:30:24 PM

  My Cimarron Biarritz De Elegance
Coupdan must have come off the same production line as yours.

Rick

Edit: I think some confusion is from how the 30's and 40's convertibles were named or described. The 4 door convertibles were convertible sedans if memory serves, and the 2 door convertibles were convertible coupes weren't they?
 When did the convertibles become just a "De Ville"? Wasn't it some time in the 60's?

#10

For Sale - Cars / Re: 1947 Cadillac Convertible

Last post by Paul Tesone - Today at 12:08:00 PM

M.Stone & John : M.Stone - Yes , I do have some extra parts , but a radio is not one of them . I'll be holding on to whatever parts I have until I sell the car . That probably won't be until the Spring because I've been SO BAD about doing car things this summer . John - thank you for your kind comment . ...Paul Tesone CLC #6876 .